XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Module reports 'Secure Access Denied'

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Old 01-30-2019, 07:42 AM
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Default Module reports 'Secure Access Denied'

Both my FEM and DDM appear to be bricked. When I try to reprogram using SDD + Mongoose I get the above error. I'm also getting a code which says too few transponders so guess this may be the culprit.

I have replacement modules but wanted to check if it's possible to reprogram the current ones first and also if I'm likely to damage the replacements if I try and reprogram those?
 
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:30 AM
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Welcome to the forum Nigel,
Please post an intro in the new members section when you can.
It would help if we knew the year and model of your car and the background to your problem.
 
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:48 AM
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Apologies I did fill out the profile, but can see that it would be easier for the time being to post it. I'll put it in my sig later.

My Jag is a 2003 XJ350 SE 4.2 n/a 100K miles (UK spec)
 
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:42 AM
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It's odd for 2 modules to go bad at once - what led up to this?
 
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:42 PM
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Welcome, Nigel!

In addition to JagV8s good question, what DTCs did you read with SDD, including B-, C- and U- codes?

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old 01-31-2019, 05:00 AM
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I was trying to avoid a long first post

Firstly, I have had my SDD+Mongoose for 4 years now and know my way around (but I'm not trained). I have successfully reflashed the DDM previously and reset the transponders.

Current issue history:
Front seat heaters (both) packed up at the same time (2016). Fuses OK, no codes. I had the drivers seat out and covers off. The heating element and wiring looked OK. Resolved to try and get the FEM reflashed at some point.
Roll forward to mid-January 2019 and I finally get around to having a proper look. I'm also getting my regular 'DSC not available' warning that I get every winter when they put salt on the roads here, usually a quick squirt of fresh water clears the codes.

I'm going to miss all of the 'read the codes/cleared the codes part so as to not distract.

Attempted to reflash the GEM (which includes the DDM,FEM and REM), this reported successful. Took the car for a test drive and checked to see if the seats were working. Not working.
Next day set off for work and was getting a constant 'CONFIG F' on the dash. Googled around and found that this is due to a synchronisation failure between modules regarding their current version. The car still started and worked corretcly so the following weekend I successfully reflashed the GEM again and CONFIG F went away. Took the car for a test drive and all well except that the front indicators were not working and remote locking not working. Reflashed again but this time it failed with the 'Secure access denied' message for both the FEM and DDM. I have tried resetting the transponders, this fails with the same error (and I now have the 'too few transponders' code).

Currently the car does not start.

I have got hold of 2nd user FEM and DDM but I'm reluctant to try anything too drastic until I know what I'm dealing with. New battery will be installed before I do any more, although I have had a 300Amp Booster pack connected to the battery at all times.

I have photos of the SDD screens for most of the current state (including codes) and will post when I dig them up.

I came here because of JagMan1984 reply in this thread Dead ECU
 
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Old 01-31-2019, 05:14 AM
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Is it a genuine Mongoose?
 
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:53 AM
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Nope. But has previously worked 100% with v130 SDD.
 
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:46 PM
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Hi Nigel,

The reason I asked about the codes is that, for example, SCP or CAN communication problems anywhere in the network can cause programming problems, and those kinds of issues can trigger U-, B- and C- codes.

Otherwise, I can't help you with the programming issues but I assume you have studied this document:

Jaguar TSB 1-186 Using WDS to Program/Configure Control Modules

Regarding the front seat heaters, the heating elements are grounded at the posts welded to the floor below each front seat. On two different X350s I have found one of these ground posts to have broken away from the floor pan, and on all of the others I've inspected the grounds were corroded with the typical thin layer of aluminum oxide that is an electrical insulator, so it might be worth checking the ground points under each seat, cleaning them and taking care to torque the nut to just 6.5 ft. lbs./9 Nm to reduce the risk of breaking the stud off the floor pan. If one or both of your grounds is broken, it's simple to run a new bolt up through the floor, but ideally aluminum bolts should be used to avoid galvanic corrosion since even stainless steel can react with the aluminum eyelet terminals on the harness wires.

I'll be watching your thread closely for updates.

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; 02-01-2019 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:28 AM
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Thanks very much for the useful information.
I am getting some SCP faults I think and definitively getting some related codes. If get a chance later I'll load the screen shots from SDD.

I have read the document it was in the S-Type thread regarding a similar issue to mine.

I'll check the floor posts, if it is those I'll be kicking myself.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by NigelJK
I'll check the floor posts, if it is those I'll be kicking myself.
Also with regard to your seat heaters, there's a thermostat in the seat that has given a few people issues. Fraser just posted about this same thing in his vehicle: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-last-211331/
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 07:47 AM
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I did give the thermostat the once over and it looked ok. If one was u/s would it take both seats out (I only removed the Drivers seat in my investigation)?
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by NigelJK
I did give the thermostat the once over and it looked ok. If one was u/s would it take both seats out (I only removed the Drivers seat in my investigation)?

You don't have to remove the seats to inspect the ground posts - just remove the six(?) Torx screws and tilt the seat back. Don't assume all is well by visual inspection alone - remove the nut and eyelet terminals, check the integrity of the stud welds by feel, then clean the stud, terminals and nut with a brass-bristle brush and zero-residue electronic cleaner, allow to dry and then reassemble and torque the nut to no more than 6.5 ft. lb. / 9 Nm per the factory specification.
 

Last edited by Don B; 02-03-2019 at 12:06 AM.
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:31 PM
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Not to derail your question on the module programming, but the front heaters should be fairly straightforward to diagnose. If you check with a test light between SD14-1 to ground, with the seat heater "on" the FEM should be supplying 12V. If there's no voltage, then either the temp sensor input to the FEM is bad (you can short it to effectively tell the FEM it's cold), or the FEM itself is bad. The heater elements should show a low resistance from end to end, they are all in series so from pin SD14-1 to pin SD15-2 should show some resistance reading. If your passenger side works I'd compare resistance readings to that to verify heater loop integrity. If you have voltage, and continuity through the heaters, then the ground would be suspect.

 
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Old 02-01-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by NigelJK
Nope. But has previously worked 100% with v130 SDD.
There's your answer...
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 03:55 PM
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Also do you have the car connected to a power supply (not a charger and min 30 amp) when using SDD?

Cheers
34by151
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:41 PM
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"There's your answer..."

This kit has successfully reprogrammed the DDM and 2xtransponders previously. I understand that genuine mongooses also have trouble from time to time.

Thanks mhamilton, I'll dig out my DMM after the car is up and running again.

I have the car connected to a newish 300amp starter/booster for the duration. Usually I have the motor running also but won't start ATM.
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 04:29 AM
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Some pictures of the last session:
SCP:


Worried about the steering look module.

Some codes:






Module numbers report:


Module error message:

 
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Old 02-02-2019, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by NigelJK
"There's your answer..."

This kit has successfully reprogrammed the DDM and 2xtransponders previously. I understand that genuine mongooses also have trouble from time to time.

Thanks mhamilton, I'll dig out my DMM after the car is up and running again.

I have the car connected to a newish 300amp starter/booster for the duration. Usually I have the motor running also but won't start ATM.
If that is the case with a non legit Mongoose your very lucky. The clones can handle light duty items but usually brick modules when attempting to flash. With a double module failure all is pointing to the cloned mongoose taking those modules out.

You should not attempt to program any modules with clone mongoose or SDD software.

I personally use a Rotunda VCM and SDD software.
 

Last edited by abonano; 02-02-2019 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:06 AM
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Today has been very encouraging. I installed my 2nd user DDM and reprogrammed 2x key transponders. I then reflashed the FEM successfully. Things seem to be working correctly (indicators work, central locking works). I'll put the unused 2nd user FEM on flea bay.
Now the bad news. The ECM refuses to play ball. Config existing module gets as far as 'programming' then fails. I need to check that I'm doing the rectification procedure correctly.

On the SDD it prompts me 'Rectification procedure needed - yes/no'. I click 'yes'. I'm the told to turn the ignition off. I'm then asked 'Reconnect negative terminal - yes/no'. At this point I'm removing both connectors and touching them together. I reconnect the +'ve and click 'yes'. It then says 'complete the following tasks within 10 seconds - click tick - wait 2 seconds'. I reconnect the -'ve terminal and click the tick. SDD then attempts to program the ECM but fails after 10 seconds saying it can't communicate with the ECM. I have tried variations on this theme including turning the ignition back on after reconnecting the -'ve terminal. The programming then fails after around 1:40 with the same error.

I have left the car unconnected with the battery overnight and will try again tomorrow with the hopefully final procedure.
Any pointers on the 'rectification procedure much appreciated.
 
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