So, I replaced the thermostat since it was split and basically open. we would drive until the Restricted Performance would come on. It would then red line on the temp gauge but was not hot. So replaced the thermostat, put it back together and then the radiator splits down the side. Barely got it back home and was running rough. I couldn't get it to stay started, would turn over and start but not stay running. Sat overnight. got fired up next day, very rough. got in gate and elevated drivers side. Changed the fuel filter, aux water pump, & radiator. filled coolant the best I could, starts, still rough, the top coolant hose is hot, the bottom coolant hose is cold. All most overheated on me twice. I feel like the coolant needs to be bled though the system some way but not sure. Doesn't feel like the coolant is circulating through the radiator. Somebody had mentioned bleeding the Intercooler? Not sure what that is in reference to. I know that it also might need some more transmission fluid, how do I get that right? Sealed system right?

 

Tried to post, lots of typing for nothing. test test test

 

Ok here we go. It all started with a restricted performance code that would show up during longer trips. Sure sometimes would get it around town. But mainly, It would be a problem on longer trips. Rest. perform. would come on and seconds later the temp would red line and we would pull over to check the coolant. Not hot. So through some lovely forums such as this one, we figured out that the thermostat was possibly broken in the open position. Long and short, it was so replaced that and the next weak link was the radiator, which in turn split down the side. After getting some parts together, I set a day to knock it out. New radiator, aux water pump, & inline fuel filter (cause it was stalling out). Now I have read that I have to bleed something called the Intercooler? I have had the system burp some bubbles through the reservoir, it has take approx. 2 gallons of coolant. BUT the upper radiator hose gets hot, the lower does not. The lower one that goes to the new thermo doesn't get hot at all. I mean it has red lines a could of times since and I just thought it was some bubbles. Please Help!

 

Have you checked for a leaking head gasket? You can get a block tester from NAPA for about $50 I think. As for the transmission fluid....there is a plug on the passenger side of the transmission oil pan, that you open with an allen wrench (not sure of the size). Here's a link to a video from ZF that shows you how to do it. https://aftermarket.zf.com/us/en/aft...n-oil-change/#

 

8mm

 

Tell us a bit more about the car, please. Year of build, miles run, engine type, serviced correctly/not, how long in your ownership, any problems before this one and what they were, etc

Q. - Did you get the stored fault codes read at all before progressing with replacing parts ?

I am not up-to-speed on the supercharged X350s, so hopefully somebody on here will soon be able to answer your question on bleeding the intercooler.

 

Codes would help as would make and model but some basics apply here just as any other engine. Either your water pump isn't pumping or your new thermostat is defective, installed backwards, etc.

Use in infrared thermometer at the water pump, inlet/ outlet before the thermostat starts to open @ 190.

Do you have the service manual?

You can download it for free here:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Hi rmaddray,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

I have merged your two different threads on the same topic into one and retitled it to reflect my understanding of your current issues, but I'll be happy to retitle it again if I haven't completely understood what's going on.

As others have already requested, please tell us the year, model and engine of your Jaguar. The mileage the car has done can also be helpful. It's a great idea to use your User Control Panel (User CP link above left) to edit your signature and add this information so it shows up in all your posts so others don't have to ask in order to offer accurate replies. Once we know the specifics of your car, I'll post some links to helpful reference documents.

Another thing that is helpful is to use occasional line breaks in your posts so others don't get eyestrain and give up trying to work their way through large blocks of text.

Also, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.

Regarding your Jag's persistent symptoms, we're all guessing until you have the systems scanned for stored diagnostic trouble codes. Post them here exactly as they appear, including the prefix letter(s), and we'll try to help.

Cheers,

Don

 

I have been frustrated by THANK YOU to all that respond.

2004 Jag XJ8 Over 150k miles. Have been getting more and more codes ever since we think the local mechanics helper left the sunroof open in the rain and blames it on a clogged sunroom drain. She has been an excellent car. Swift, clean and quiet to drive. I am not willing to let her go yet. Got everything back together and kept "burping" her and she's not overheating any more. Air pockets?

I have a knocking in the engine at idle and slow roll type speed. Has no problems going fast. This car is not supercharged as far as I can tell. Gas pressure on the rail is 50 lbs. Used Allen wrench on throttle to try and up idle but didn't want to screw anything up with out talking to you folks first.

Reed

 

But Thank you thank you thank you

 

Hi Reed,

Thank you for sharing your Jag's year and model. Now if you will post the exact codes that are stored and the symptoms you are trying to resolve we'll try to help.

Cheers,

Don