ok, I have a 2004 VDP 120k miles. I wanted to do some stuff before I hit the road Monday (july 29). I replaced the upper and lower coolant hoses and oil pan gasket.

When I took it out of the shop my abs light came on along with the traction control light. Code was C1175 left rear abs sensor. This came on after I changed the wheel bearing on left rear out of the blue one day, took sensor took, cleaned it and the light went away... perfect.


this time not so lucky at all.. I took it all cleaned it, look at the rings on the axle.. everything looked good.. installed... light still on.. So I took it off again, I noticed the connector coming from the car side looked a tad burnt.. so I took the sensor from the other side swapped them out to see if in fact it was the sensor.

Light went off, and came back on 12 miles later.. so I am assuming it is the connector...

I also have heard a bad battery on these cars will make them play tricks... tested my a battery and it was bad. So I installed a new battery.

SO NOW my auto up/down features on my windows do not work and for some reason the driver side rear shock is jacked ALL THE way UP and is making the car ride horrible. This is the same side as the bad connector.

Was I supposed to do something when I changed the battery? How can I make the shock go down? I have to hit the road for work Monday and I am feeling stressssssssted out.

 

Try checking the ground wires. Sometimes they are the causes of all sorts of odd things.

 

the battery ground is new and looks great, what other locations can you think of?

 

I think what he's talking about is the various ground points around the car. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in, but I believe there's a ground point somewhere around the headlights, and possibly one in the trunk area. I've read on here a lot that those points can go bad. Try removing wire & cleaning the areas & reconnect. Good luck.

 

When the battery is disconnected, the vehicle loses a number of stored settings which must be 're-learned'.

Firstly, check the battery connections are good. The terminal clamps shouldn't be a problem but check the negative cable ground connection (arrowed in red) hasn't loosened as you changed the battery:



Connections don't need to be tightened until you're breaking out into a sweat - 4 NM is sufficient.

Following reconnection of the battery, the engine should be allowed to idle as the stored idle and drive values contained within the ECM (Engine Control Module) will have been lost. To restore these settings, the following procedure should be carried out:

1. Start the engine and allow to idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
2. Switch the engine off.
3. Restart the engine and allow to idle for approximately two minutes (this will allow the ECM to learn the idle values).
4. Apply and hold the brake pedal, select drive and allow the engine to idle for a further two minutes.
5. Drive the vehicle for approximately five miles of varied driving to enable the ECM to complete it's learning strategy.
6. Reset the audio unit and climate control assembly to original settings.
7. Reset the door window motors. Lower the driver's window and hold the button until a soft click is heard (3 or 4 seconds). Raise the window fully and again hold until a soft click is heard. This is the travel limit switches re-setting. Repeat for the other windows.

Disconnecting the battery is called a 'hard reset'. It is often done deliberately to remove stored ECM values and reset to default when there's electrical issues with a vehicle.

Graham

 

The grounds, (UK=Earths), that are the most troublesome are three behind the headlamps where they get salt-laden air in winter. Take off the plastic cover just in front of the radiator to inspect. Mine are OK so far as when I bought the car at 30k miles in 2010, this was one of the first things I looked at.

However, your trouble sounds like something else.