Proper procedure for Transmission Service
 

Hi Folks, I just joined the forums and am in the process of changing trans.fluid and pan. I've gained a lot of knowledge reading everyones input and it's appreciated. I have a 2005 Super V8 with 80,000 miles, my questions are should I coat the rubber band gasket with transmission fluid and / or use black RTV on it before I fit it in the pan,( by the way all parts are new) also I'm thinking about using Teflon tape on the fill plug. I'm also thinking about raising the right side of the car 1 foot to put fluid in the tranny,what do you think of that?

Sounds as if you might want to reread about the fluid,filter, & pan change to me.:icon_saywhat:

Let me help...

No, no and no.

Read up on all the posts on how the trans is to be serviced.

Thank you!
 

Just asking, one other question what about anti size on pan screws?

Not a bad idea.

It won't hurt. I've done it. A tiny dab on the end of each bolt.

Hi Vettecat,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us. I have edited the title of your thread so others will know it has to do with transmission service. Members are busy and may not bother to click on a title like "Proper procedure!" even if they might have something to contribute if they knew the topic.

The potential problem with using anti-seize compound on the pan screws is that it reduces the friction between the threads on the screw and those in the tapped hole and may affect your torque measurements as you tighten the screws. This can lead to over-torquing of the screws and over-compression of the gasket. The torque specification for plastic pans is a very low 7.3 lb. ft. / 10 Nm, which, depending on your strength, may not even be "hand tight." It's better to have the screws and holes clean and dry. I clean the screws with a solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner and a wire brush, and the holes with a correct tap (most hardware stores now carry metric taps) followed by flushing with zero-residue electronic cleaner spray. Allow to dry or use compressed air before installing the pan.

I'm attaching a diagram showing the specified torque and the recommended tightening sequence: You will need a good inch-pound range torque wrench (7.3 lb. ft. is 87.6 in. lb.). Torque wrenches are least accurate in the lower 20% of their range, so the typical 50 - 100 lb. ft. torque wrench is not sufficiently accurate at 7.3 lb. ft.

You do not want to tilt the car while filling the transmission because you do not, under any circumstances, want to overfill (or underfill) the gearbox. I am attaching a document that explains the proper filling procedure with the vehicle level. You will need some means of measuring the fluid temperature, either a non-contact infrared thermometer (aimed at the fluid draining out of the fill hole, not at the plastic pan), Jaguar IDS/WDS/SDD, or a diagnostic scan tool capable of displaying Live Data including the transmission oil temperature.

Also, be sure you have a new electrical connector sleeve before you do the job since eventually these leak and allow transmission oil to contaminate the electrical connector. You can purchase a new sleeve from one of our forum sponsors or from an authorized ZF dealer like the California Transmission Supply Company (thectsc.com).

P.S. The only two fluids commonly available in the U.S. that have been proven correct for the 6HP26 are ZF Lifeguard 6 (available from thectsc.com and elsewhere) and Ford Motorcraft Mercon SP (available from Ford dealerships, Advance Auto Parts, etc.). In Canada and some other regions, Shell Spirax S4 MSP is a third option.

Cheers,

Don

Thank you for the reply.
 

I appreciate your response and info Don. I installed the new mechatronics sleeve connecter today, wasn't too bad a job just tight getting in there and tomorrow I'll do the pan and fluid. Thanks again!