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-   XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/)
-   -   Replacing Fuel Injectors (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/replacing-fuel-injectors-119165/)

kbeachy Jun 3, 2014 07:58 PM

Replacing Fuel Injectors
 
Has anyone DIY replaced your fuel injectors in a non-supercharged x350? I ordered a set of GB Remanufactured from RockAuto and would like to put them in myself. Looking for any guidance, counsel, tips, etc. Thanks!

cjd Jun 4, 2014 09:23 AM

The rail bolts down. Once the bolts are removed, the rail can be pulled off as a single piece with the injectors attached. There are 2 o-rings per injector, which would be best to replace. One is at the rail, and the other at the manifold.

Remember the rail is pressurized...you can vent it with the little schraeder valve on the rail before removing the injectors.

kbeachy Jun 4, 2014 10:06 AM

cjd,
Thanks for the advice. The JTIS gives step by step instructions, but for a novice DIYer sometimes the info provided seems a little obscure. It's helpful to have input from someone who's actually done it.
The instructions make it seem that there's very little that needs to be removed before you can get to the fuel injection supply manifold:
1. remove the engine cover and engine cover bracket,
2. disconnect the fuel line and fuel pressure sensor,
3. detach the engine wiring harness,
4. disconnect the electrical connectors and fuel temp sensor electrical connector,
And then you're at the fuel injection supply manifold.
Is that really about it?
That's helpful to know you can relieve the fuel pressure with the valve on the rail. The JTIS says to remove the fuel system pressure relief valve cap in order to disconnect the fuel line. Is that not actually necessary then?
Thanks,
Kenton

reyesl Jul 20, 2014 07:25 AM

Replaced #5 Fuel Injector
 
About a week ago, I carelessly let my fuel level get very low and upon starting the engine, it had a miss-fire. I drove to the closest gas station and filled-up. Started the engine and it ran smoothly till I got home. The following morning, the engine had a miss-fire and also a code. The code indicated that #5 Fuel Injector was faulty. I replaced the Injector and it currently is purring as a Jaguar should be.

Will post photos of the replacement in a few days. :icon_user:

slmskrs Jul 20, 2014 05:48 PM


Originally Posted by kbeachy (Post 989335)
cjd,
Thanks for the advice. The JTIS gives step by step instructions, but for a novice DIYer sometimes the info provided seems a little obscure. It's helpful to have input from someone who's actually done it.
The instructions make it seem that there's very little that needs to be removed before you can get to the fuel injection supply manifold:
1. remove the engine cover and engine cover bracket,
2. disconnect the fuel line and fuel pressure sensor,
3. detach the engine wiring harness,
4. disconnect the electrical connectors and fuel temp sensor electrical connector,
And then you're at the fuel injection supply manifold.
Is that really about it?
That's helpful to know you can relieve the fuel pressure with the valve on the rail. The JTIS says to remove the fuel system pressure relief valve cap in order to disconnect the fuel line. Is that not actually necessary then?
Thanks,
Kenton

Kenton,

That's pretty much it. JTIS doesn't mention when you take the intake manifold off that you have to remove the fuel rails. I didn't notice the schrader valve on the fuel rail; when I pulled off the fuel line, there wasn't any pressure in mine (had been off for a couple of days). You take the rail bolts off, and then just carefully pull up, which pulls out each of the injectors. So the whole assembly (both sides) just comes right out. I cleaned the ends of the injectors, removed the o-rings at the bottom, then went to the dealer to get replacement o-rings. $12 each and they were out of them. So I cleaned and re-installed my originals (can get them from Autopartswarehouse for $7 each). You won't have that problem since you're replacing the injectors. Make sure you put a little oil on the seals so they'll slip in easily. Why are you replacing them? Any issues? I'll be interested to hear if the remanufactured ones make a noticeable improvement since that would be something I'd want to consider if it does.

slmskrs Jul 20, 2014 07:03 PM

Oh, as a side note, I had to take the fuel rails off when removing the intake manifold because I didn't take the throttle body off first. Had I removed the throttle body first, I could have left the fuel rails on. But it was good to remove the fuel rails and injectors since now I know how easy it will be to replace injectors, etc.

Don B Jul 20, 2014 10:41 PM


Originally Posted by slmskrs (Post 1019439)
I cleaned the ends of the injectors, removed the o-rings at the bottom, then went to the dealer to get replacement o-rings. $12 each and they were out of them. So I cleaned and re-installed my
originals (can get them from Autopartswarehouse for $7 each).


Hi slmskrs,

I haven't had my X350 injectors out, so I don't know if the O-rings have a conventional circular cross-section or are triangular, trapezoidal or one of the other newer cross-sections, but if they're the conventional type, most industrial supply companies carry a wide variety of sizes. For example, McMaster-Carr (McMaster-Carr) carries Viton O-rings 1/8 in. thick with an O.D. of 1/2 in. in a package of 25 for $5.28. Metric Viton O-rings 3mm wide with an I.D. of 6mm come in a package of 10 for $4.71. I don't know the exact size or sizes needed for the X350 injectors, but McMaster-Carr would probably have them at similar prices.

Cheers,

Don

reyesl Jul 21, 2014 07:49 PM

Schrader Valve
 
1 Attachment(s)
Location of Schrader Valve on photo...

The O-rings have a conventional circular cross-section and are color coded, Blue (top) and Black (seat). The replacement Injector has high-temp viton O-rings.

My replacement procedure:
1. Removed the engine cover and the right-side engine cover bracket
2. Disconnected the electrical connector on the engine cover bracket and fuel temp sensor
3. Removed the PCV tube/hose
4. Disconnected the vacuum hose
5. Removed the blue valve cap and released fuel pressure
6. Moved the engine wiring harness, right side
7. Slowly lifted the right-side fuel rail with injectors
8. Removed the #5 injector clip
9. Replaced #5 Injector and O-rings.

Did not need to remove the fuel system pressure relief valve cap in order to disconnect the fuel line. You do need to remove the valve cap in order to relive fuel pressure.

leaddog11 Mar 15, 2023 03:20 PM

Great info
 
Great info thanks

meirion1 Mar 15, 2023 04:38 PM

Some models do not have a Schrader valve on the rail.


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