So I performed an oil change.....
 

...this weekend. I like to wait till it's 20 degrees F to work in the unheated garage. I didn't have it in my barn, which is more spacious but inaccessible at this time (ground is too wet & no driveway to the distant barn.)
My first pain in the ass of which i was unaware: the plastic underbody skirting. Not a big deal, but cumbersome.
My second pain in the ass: the little 10mm nut & washer that holds the middle of the plastic skirting up TWISTED ITS BOLT OFF!! grr!! So I jury rigged tie-wraps to hold that side tightly against the cheesy bracket that had the broken bolt in it. Works great, but those damned Brits!! Who the hell puts a tiny little bolt in a cheesy steel bracket that's held in with something like a 3/16 tiny bolt onto the frame?? Mind you, this piece is ON THE BOTTOM OF A CAR, subject to all the harshness of such.
So after my convenient 3-hour oil-change, I have some questions: 1. Has anyone ever had to order the replacement L-brackets that hold the middle of the skirting up?
I have to admit, the skirting probably keeps everything above it very clean, so it wouldn't make sense to leave it off. But geez! Can we find a better way to attach it?
On the other hand, aside from screwing with the skirting, the oil change was probably the easiest I've seen in my years. Filter & drain plug right close to each other. And I actually enjoy changing the oil & crawling around underneath my cars. Sometimes. In the summertime.

Thoughts and comments welcome.

If you mean number 4 in the attached pic then it was part number XR816810 .

I would love to know if we can leave those panels off? Would be a lot easier? Do they assist with cooling? :confused:

U - thats it; many thanks! May I also have part numbers for 5, 6, and 9 to complete the assembly? Are these diagrams available somewhere on the web, or is it something you have? I owe you a beer. Thanks.

Assuming you replace the bracket and nut, use a bit of this when bolting up. There are probably US equivalent makes.

Anti-seize Compounds - Molyslip Atlantic Limited

I removed those pans from mine and don't miss them. The insulation was home to a family of mice. They just hold dirt and moisture IMHO.

I for one like the panel-it keeps things cleaner than otherwise, and the bolts facilitate stabbing the panel back in place. You slip the leading edge of the panel in behind the front attachment points, then finger tighten the nuts to the aforementioned bolts-this lines everything up for the final install of the other fasteners. I use a 10mm socket, sometimes air assist, other times the manual way-about equal in time expended. Someone said that they like being under the vehicle-I do too. Provides a great opportunity to look things over. These are fascinating machines, made by some Brit.

Number 5 = Spring Nut = C2C28406
Number 6 = Screw = C2C32663
Number 9 = Nut & Washer = XR854810

I got the parts manual off the net (search for Jaguar JEPC 10.2009) but I think it is kicking around this forum somewhere.

I replace the plastic pan on my customers' cars, but leave off my personal X350. The pan was designed soley for the purpose of improving gas mileage by eliminating (or improving) drag on the undercarraige at speed.

That and sound deadening. Much easier to jack up with it off also.

I left mine off because the mice had destroyed the insulation and it was wet. Amazing how many of those little *******s can tunnel in there. I haven't seen any change in mileage. There was also a recall a while back due to dirt and water trapped by the pan causing corrosion of the brake lines. You can't buy the sound deadening separately.

One of the moronic service writers (a lower form of life) at the dealership freaked my wife out. He noticed the pans missing and told her there would be dire circumstances. Took me a while to calm her down. She doesn't live here anymore and the car is mine.

Sorry Brutal for the Dealer bashing but Service Writers are in open season. No bag limit. I think they wash out of used car salesman school. Would much rather talk to the mechanic directly.

parts
 

NAPA has a 50 page catalog of all those funky body fasteners, the combo screw/washer, nut/washer and all sorts of clips, springs, etc. if you don't want to go to the dealer (and who does?!!) for them. My NAPA guy was cool enough to let me borrow his for an afternoon so I could scan it. Prices on the NAPA stuff are way more sane, too.
As for the bracket, you might be able to fab it yourself.
Chad

I have worked at 2 Automotive/Truck Maint/Service Centers and in both cases, the Service Writer was the highest paid individual. He was also the most knowledgeable, the go-to-guy for problems. But you are correct with Auto Dealers; all the service writers I met seemed to be in training.

We don't have those problems in the south ;) !!! :)

But I have to agree, they are held on pretty cheesy.

that's very useful, thanks. I have a similar problem as the Jag dealer in Sheffield that used to service mine broke most of the fasteners and tied the deflector back with cable ties. Until I saw that, I had been planning to replace the original screws and use copaslip, since this panel has to come off for every oil change and to polish the underside of the engine.

Looking at the diagram u102768 kindly posted, I see there are several bolts and nuts. I would like to order in advance some stainless fasteners (not from Jag!) so does anyone know what size 5, 6, 9 and 10 are? I think I will need flanged fasteners for best effect so unlikely I have the exact part already.

What is part 11? And part 2?

Part 3 appears to be a plastic fastener, I don't know what to ask for but perhaps I can photograph an old one and send it to a company that sells such things.

TIA!

On my old Volvo S60, I bored a hole about five inches in diameter in the under tray, so I could remove the filter without taking the tray off.
The filter on that car faced down hill, so it was as easy as poking a socket on an extension up through the hole and unscrewing said filter..

I used to get a lot of stainless fasteners from this guy in Yorkshire. However you need to know what you're ordering. Put up a pic of one or two and I might know what you need. They sound like typical motor industry hardened steel screws of the self-tapper type. With "normal" screws and bolts, you can use a thread gauge and vernier caliper to measure up and then look at a table to see what you have.

but what about when you wanted to polish the underside of the engine? :confused:

Yeah, Once you have the pan off it's like tying your shoes over age 40, You ask yourself, " What else can I do while I'm down here!"

I rarely polish the shiny part of my car, let alone the underside:icon_rolleyes:

Terminology check
 

(item 5)

Does "Spring Nut" mean what I call a "Spire Nut?"

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