Does anybody know what the part# is for the supercharger coolant filler plug gasket/seal ring is?

 

Just out of curiosity upload a pic of it if you can. Maybe someone can help find an alternative.
For example I found faucet line o rings to be a perfect match for the seal on the overfill tank bleed screw.

 

jackra_1,

The EPC does not show that part as available separately on the supercharger page. As you well know from all the work you've done, the supercharger is an Eaton M112, so perhaps Eaton can sell you a seal.

BlackKat's idea of finding a substitute is a good one, especially if the seal is a rubber O-ring. Just note that many water-grade O-rings are made of Buna-N/Nitrile and are only rated to about 250F, a temperature easily reached on the top of the engine. Better material choices for the engine bay are FKM/fluoroelastomer/(Viton is one brand), FFKM/perfluoroelastomer/(Kalrez is one brand), or one of the high temperature silicones (not all are high temp rated).

Here's a link to a comparison chart of O-ring materials:

O-Ring Material Selection / Comparison Guide

If you can measure the O-ring, McMaster-Carr carries O-rings in a variety of materials:

McMaster.com

Cheers,

Don

 

Awesome link Don!

 

This any help? Is in EPC under engine> inlet and exhaust manifolds> outlet duct-V8 supercharged.



The filler plug on my XKR is paper based (part number of JWV130001) but don't know if the XJR is the same, same part number as for the earlier XJR VINs so probably is.

 

If it fits, the seal from a 2001 XJR is copper.

 

Thank you all for your replies.

Part # 3 in Woox4's post is the part.

In all the instructions from Jaguar that I have read they say discard that item once you remove the plug but never give a part#.

On mine there were two seals. One black and one a grey color. The smaller black one has disintegrated and the grey one is too loose a fit.

So I will look for an alternative. Copper sounds good to me.

 

Any idea what the part# is Plums?

 

Just ordered two washers from McMaster. Will have to cut to size no big deal.

Just had a look at my seal more closely. The black flexible washer is supposed to fit inside the slightly larger metal washer. Mine was outside and therefore not sealing. It is slightly damaged.

Incidently the coolant level was where it is supposed to be in the filler tube. Thats filling the coolant thru the reservoir cap only during topping up with the car on the flat.
The slight leak probably helped in the process.

 

jackra_1,

That sounds like the black flexible part was probably originally bonded to the inner rim of the metal washer. Search the McMaster-Carr site for "Sealing Washers" and you'll find that type, including metric versions. Maybe you'll be able to find a match.

Cheers,

Don

 

Nope.

A good way to cross reference for fit is to check if the plug itself is the same
part number for both vehicles.

 

Even correctly positioned I still get a leak so will order the combination
washer as well from Mcmaster.

Now to try and solve my "system failure" issue.

Of all times my JLR SDD mongoose connector is not recognized on my laptop!

Never had a problem before.

Using a standard OBDII reader I get 0102, 0112, 0122, 00222, and 211A error codes. No idea what the last one is.

I hope its simply a matter of loose connectors on the Throttle body!!

 

In addition to cleaning the TPS electrical connector, it might be worth cleaning your engine bay grounds. Off the top of my head, I think the primary ECM ground is at the stud on the inner fender under the cover for the passenger cabin air filter (which sits above the ECM). Remember that the torque spec for the ground nuts is just 6.5 lb. ft., or just a little more than hand tight. Several members have snapped off a threaded stud by unwittingly overtightening the nut.

I don't know what 211A means either and it's not in the DTC Summaries Manual, which you can download here if you don't have it:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...03388427,d.cWw

Regarding your Mongoose - it sounds as though the driver may have been corrupted and needs to be reinstalled. As I recall, I had trouble getting the driver installed and it took three or four attempts before I was successful.

Cheers,

Don

 

One of the TB connectors was not plugged in! I may have unplugged it to allow an extension thru to tighten up a clamp on the inlet to the TB.

Anyway the message "system failure" no longer appears however the orange
"engine block" warning icon is still there. A hard reset makes no difference.

Update: ODBII reader allowed me to clear faults and after driving for a mile or so and switching the ignition on and off
the orange engine block icon is now gone.

 

Pretty sure mine is copper but I don't see anything on the SC or SC cooling in the EPC.

I too was concerned that the manual says discard it, but someone said he'd removed his SC plug several times with no problems so I did it myself with no problem I can see yet. Maybe copper was a 2006 change?