I got the ABS Fault/DSC Not Available lights last night. Looks like I've got a ton researching to do.

 

I replaced the static pulley in the SC belt loop and it did not get rid of annoying squeak.

This was after squirting it with WD40 which seemed to get rid of squeak.

I will replace the actual idler pulley next and go down the list one by one.

 

"I got the ABS Fault/DSC Not Available lights last night. Looks like I've got a ton researching to do."

Most likely cause is a wheel sensor,SDD will tell you which one.

 

WD makes a rust penetrant which is MUCH BETTER than WD 40

 

Took it for MOT which it passed with emissions so low that some did not even register, and no advisory items, exactly as expected. Treated it to a tankful of 97 octane fuel. Drove it. Stared at it lovingly as I parked for the night.

 

I have some. I was trying to figure out which pulley was squeaking so the ordinary WD40 should have been fine. Just cannot get the spray aimed in the tight space at other pulleys!

 

It turned out that the cap which holds the wheel speed sensor had completely detached from the back of the hub (front driver side) and was dangling. I have no idea how this could've happened since it was impossible to sneak it past the lower ball joint stud. I had to undo the upper control arm ball joint and angle the entire vertical down in order to put the cap back in place. I made sure it was nice and tight, then put some rtv sealant around the edges to make sure this doesn't happen again. The fault lights immediately went out on the test drive.

The best kind of repair...easy and free.

Also got a CDC Error last night. Turned out the disc cartridge was jammed somehow. A few tugs did the trick.

What's next?

 

Found out today that my thermostat housing (AJ811793) has more than likely degraded and begun to fail which in a sense was a bit of a blessing in disguise as some clever scoping found a leak from my water pump(Airtex/Wells AW4124).

I have a nagging feeling that my heater core is also somewhat responsible for this break down as it is definitely plugged and will require backflush/replacement (worst case). Haven't had proper heat (sometimes none at all) for some time now but never got around to the flush mostly due to where those pipes are located!

Sigh. Looks like she's gonna be sidelined for a while.

Been poking around some older threads in our section where others have done water pump and thermostat jobs, was wondering what you guys think about replacing the belt and idler/tensioner(C2C36146) assembly while I'm in there?

She's a 2007 XJ8 with 188,000km travelled, Canadian car so she's seen some interesting weather over the years. Open to suggestions on part selection. May have to start a thread, don't want to clog this one up. Thanks in advance!

 

While the front of the car is up in the air to drain the coolant leave it there. I would replace all the mentioned parts with new ones. While your there a new belt, alternator, starter, with solenoid rebuild would be on my list as well.Fuel, air, filters,transmission steel pan, filter, with Mercon S P fluid conversion, if your serious about catching up on some much needed maintenance.

 

+1 on the above.

Also check all pulleys.

I am kicking myself that I did not when I had the chance to easily replace all "removeable" pulleys when I replaced hoses and thermostat etc.

I have an annoying squeak and am in the process of working thru replacing pulleys now with difficult access.

 

Solid advice, thanks Wingrider! To be honest some of that sounds a bit above my pay grade in terms of how to complete said tasks but I am more than willing to give it a go!

Any suggestions on manufacturers? I do enjoy saving money but not at the expense of my beautiful cat's health!
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Found out so far:
-Metal trans pan w/ filter integrated A95010D made by Transmaxx
-alternator seems VIN specific?
-starter also unsure of

The cause of all this was a spike overheat issue, boiled some coolant and it puked out from Under the coolant tank cap and was promptly flung everywhere by the belts. One of the larger coolant hoses (running vertical to Tstat housing) actually suctioned down which was visually freaky. Slowly opened the cap to allow air inside the coolant tank and the hose re expanded to proper size. Along with the max temp on gauge, she refused to leave first gear and gave a cruise not available message go figure.

No code from it, a little bit of coolant missing which was replaced. Left sit for a day or so, ran her up to see if it would reoccur and.... Nothing. Coolant flowing fine. So a test was in order! 100km later (half at 80km/h the other at 110km/h) ECU throws a P0128 coolant Temp too low to regulate. It's only 0°C here so that didn't make sense. Coolant temp ran on average around mid to high 70s (150-180F)

 

Those things are not an issue at all, if one takes their time. i print out all instructions placed in plastic page holders, in order, so a picture, as well as printed instructions are there for inspection when needed.

 

I nearly traded in my X350 for an X351 this weekend, but the dealer didn't want to deal. I never thought I would say something like that.

 

Cleared a gang of old codes from both the XJ's with the new iCarsoft i930 reader. Most were from from before i had either car. Which surprises me a bit, don't dealers clear old codes when brought in? If not guess people did what i did fixed what was wrong. I never got a warning,light, or anything, to tell me of my front shocks were leaking. The car was a bit low, and compressor ran after setting a while, overnight. When the new reader was hooked up they came up, as well as many others. Both had codes from who knows when? None anywhere now, hope to keep it that way.

 

Some beautiful new wheels and tires for my 2005 XJR linked in this post -

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0/#post1822762

 

I traded my 2005 XJ8L in for a 2014 XJ Supercharged.

I sold out. I'm a hypocrite. What's worse is that I can live with it.

 

A couple of days ago, I was fiddling around with the XJ remote keys as neither were working properly, one I was able to fix by cleaning, the other refused to lock the car, although all else appeared ok. A strange phenomenon, which I had seen just once previously (years ago) started to occur: The car, having been locked, alarmed, and parked within the vicinity of the house, would unlock itself, and lower all four windows. Inconvenient, to put it mildly, additionally appearing to lose the seat memory position for "easy entry and egress". Long story short; I isolated the trouble to being the remaining defective remote key, which fitted with a new battery, now had the range to send a spurious signal to the car from within the house. Battery removed from the offending remote = problem solved.

 

About two weeks ago my rear left air suspension gave up, so I had it re-manufactured locally. I got lucky that the shock was perfect, just the rubber part gave up. Also changed front bake pads.

So one very important aspect that I discovered - it is nearly impossible (too much hustle, expensive, etc.) to rebuild the shock itself, but the rubber part around it can be easily fixed. There is one bolt on the bottom part that also required to be crafted, as it was jammed due to corrosion and was impossible to take off without cutting. The guy fixing it told me that such problem is common on X350s, but recrafting this bolt is not a major issue. The fix costed around $150 (including taking it off and putting it back) and got 1 year guarantee on the rubber part.

While air suspension occurred to be an easy fix, finding correct brake pads was much more problematic. First of all, not all brake pads that are designed for X350s fit - You have to look for it based on the VIN code. I contacted Jaguar official service center for pads, but they did not have it in stock and asked nearly $300 for it
It took me whole weekend and visit to every single shop that sells brake pads to find correct ones, but eventually found them for $70

 

"but the rubber part around it can be easily fixed."

Do you mean the air bladder, if so this is the first time I have heard of this.

Can you describe the procedure in more detail please?

I am sure that our American friends on this forum would be interested

since they suffer from air leaks in very cold weather.

 

Well I was not there for whole procedure, but this guy disassembled the strut into two main parts - the shock itself, that holds some type of oil and the rubber part that holds pressure and controls the ride height. I have no idea what this part is called, so I marked it on the photo with yellow highlighter (photo is from google). There were three holes that leaked pressure when going over bumps (on a nice weather when stationary, car kept correct ride height. When driving, suspension could not generate enough pressure to keep it up so suspension error was coming up).

This guy then took this rubber part in some type of chamber, where he heated it up and did something that I do not know. Anyway, when he finished, the rubber part looked like new. Than he assembled the strut back and pressure tested it to be sure it worked. The whole procedure including taking the strut off, rebuilding (he did cut a nut that he was unable to unbolt, but the metal shop next to the garage crafted one in same size before this guy starting putting thing back) it and putting it back took around 5-6 hours.

I found this garage from a friend of mine who has BMW X5. These guys rebuilt air suspension on his car about 2 years ago and it still works fine (X5 has air suspension on the rear end only). So when the garage guaranteed free rebuild during 1 year in case of damage, I did not hesitate much and paid whatever they asked for it