Filled up with 99 octane fuel, and cleaned it inside and out in preparation for a photoshoot by Jaguar World magazine tomorrow.

 

Waxed, detailed and hooked up to a trickle charger...Taking it out for mom's birthday lunch on Sunday.

 

After getting a quote of $7625.00 by the local Jag dealership, to replace front end components. I decided to do it myself. Replaced the entire front suspension including the lower ball joints. minus the air struts. The parts cost $861.35. Could have gotten them for less, but I shopped around and purchased all original Jaguar parts. Started on the right, with the learning curve, It took me 4.5 hrs. But the left only to 2hrs. Having a press really help with removing the lower ball joint, however I had to become creative pressing the new ball joints in. Going to do the rear in a week or so.

 

x

 

It was a few weeks ago in fact, but I didn't post the photographic record here as previously a quirk has deleted some, and changed the order of others.

I have never seen this explained properly anywhere, and hope this link will assist anyone else wanting to do the job, without dismantling half the engine bay just to find and access the filler / level plug.

Supercharger oil change. (4.2 V8 engine). | JagChat

 

Started with a very thorough wash and dry, including door jams. Waxed under side of hood/bonnet, underside of trunk/boot, door jams, complete wheel (all 4), Polished and waxed entire car, was actually a 2 day project. All this in preparation for this week ends Sun Coast Jaguar Concours D'Elegance at St Armands Circle, Sarasota FL. Also in hopes someone really likes what they see since I am putting the car up for sale, 1 of 614 X358 XJR's produced.

 

One of my two key fobs died a week or so ago. Went thru battery change and cleaning no dice.

So bought a used key fob and exchanged boards and reprogrammed the two key fobs so back to two working key fobs.

Tried at the same time reprogramming the dead unit with a new battery but no luck. Worth a try anyway.

 

Have a guess, it involved a Jaguar wheel brace, a rubber mallet and a sacrificial 19mm socket on a breaker bar.


Nuts!

 

Toyota Lug nuts have been one of the first things purchased for any new to me Jaguar.

Hate those shitty two piece lug nuts that they like to use myself.

The Japanese have a better solution to the problem without a doubt!!!

 

Now have a set like these fitted,


Fresh Nuts.


One piece, 19mm and simple to put on, torque up and remove.

One Jaag one went walkies during a tyre fitting, put it on without the cap seems to be 11/16 underneath. Decided to buy new ones, when they arrived, yesterday, managed to get thirteen Jaag nuts off (using the wheelbrace in the boot). A trip to the autofactors today produced a quality 19mm long socket, with a bit of hammering the rest came off and all new ones were eventually fitted.

The new ones don't look out of place, but my car is Midnight, YMMV.

 

Not knocking them but don't the others (stock ones) have a washer of sorts on the ends?

Giving them a wider grip on the alloy wheels.

Or maybe i'm not seeing things right.

The color would look good on a car that color.

 

The old ones do have a flange, I think more to keep moisture from getting in between the nut and the chrome cover causing corrosion between the nut and cover (they don't as mine would spin about the actual nut) but the bottom part of the nut is equally tapered as to locate securely into the bolt hole in the wheel.

 

That's great then, the washer portion may be unimportant, when all is said & done.

Just assumed they had the purpose, of a bit more holding power, so to speak, for the alloy type of wheels.

The aftermarket Toyota lug nuts, cost a lot less than original Toyota's do.

They are almost as bad as Jaguar's in price, think around $20 was what the aftermarket sets were.

Enjoy the car, really like both of mine.

 

Just gace the new girl a solid clay bar/polish/wax, plus a prayer that her flawless record of reliability continues!

 

Hey All -
Owned my 2005 super V8 since April 2018 - not much needed done but -
1. new tires purchased from Simple Tire (ATTRUO AZ850) 5 for $422 delivered (free shipping) - As a knock off brand I was skeptical re performance - car had vibration problem due to poor balance job, bent rims, and needed road force balance on new tires - vibration almost gone after this work. AZ850 have a tread pattern more like a summer tire but have an M+S designation. Seem OK so far in cold and wet here in OHIO.
2. Instead of immediately reconditioning OEM 19inch wheels, decided to buy used rims - on this forum from mr. mag media got 4 sweet ROUND 18inch VELA style wheels from a 2011-15 XF which have the same offset as the 05 Super V8 AND fit over the Brembo calipers no problem. Ebay purchase of 1 more brought the total for VELA rims to 450 (nice right?). Then on Simple Tire got 5, TOYO T4 Proxes summer tires for total of $395 delivered. Great tires, great price - check out Simple Tire if you need.
3. Air shock system went flat (2 leaking front) set the car underivable - decided after searching Forum and great posts by GRIFF79 who researched THE HELL out of air versus coil over replacement. GREAT posts on his process and final decision. I decided to follow him and get Eibach coils to SOLVE my suspension problem - mainly b/c I have a great mechanic and the car needs the other suspension work done just as GRIFF79 did. Total cost 1,048$ for the Eibach and 800$ for the install. Car rides and looks perfect.
3a. Recent oil change at Valoline quick stop - High Mileage synthetic $97.
4. I drive my car as much as possible - I like it as a daily driver any excuse to use it is good except for to and from work (143K on the clock) which is only 3 miles away.
My total into the car right now is 7,250 purchase with tax title and the wheels, tires, poor balancing work and redoo, shocks I'm at $11,500. So far so good.

I'm delinquent about pics - I'll upload some soon.

To ALL members - the information on the forum is invaluable and I appreciate your taking the time to share. I hope the above is useful in some way.

Regards,
Roadmaster2

 

Started the "drive cycle" to get rid of P1000 code which I incurred due to starting engine without MAF sensor connected after replacing water pump.

Emissions due now.

 

RoadMaster2

Junior Member
Said
To ALL members - the information on the forum is invaluable

True fact;
.
Due diligence, plus being willing to do a little hard work.

Enable me, as well as many others, to afford this type of high end vehicles.

That said; I sure do enjoy the pleasure of driving such fine cars.

People do the same with motorcycles.

That's why there's four 25+ year old Gold Wings, that run like new in my garage.

Hence my name here; Wingrider

 

So, 2 years on, how are you finding the EBC red stuff pads? I've had three sets now, and every one started giving me the heebie-jeebies (and one accident) when they were half worn. They perform brilliantly when new, and I love the lack of brake dust, but after a while they get so they don't really bite until after they get a bit of heat in them (i.e. a few rotations of the wheels, which you don't want!) I corresponded with EBC who suggested I switch to Yellow Stuff, but I've gone to Ferodo for now. I wasn't sure it was the actual pads and have replaced brake lines, rebuilt calipers, replaced rotors, but in the end the only common factor was the pads.

 

Those tapered seat nuts are dangerous used in conjunction with flat seat wheels, such as fitted to Jaguars; they will loosen in use.

 

Etypephil

Senior Member
Wrote

Those tapered seat nuts are dangerous used in conjunction with flat seat wheels, such as fitted to Jaguars; they will loosen in use.

Was what i was alluding to, but to each their reach, so to speak.