has anyone ever managed to repair a rear sunblind?
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My sunblind jammed down the other day, I fixed it by grabbing and pulling up about an inch and then getting someone to press the button. I put dry silicone lube in the side channels then to hopefully avoid it seizing again.
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Serious Electrical Ground Problem
Originally Posted by 49Markvman
(Post 1301917)
Fantastic review of potential problems and fixes. Thanks to all. I might add that very often there are unusual electrical quirks (wiper/lights/engine/warnings) caused by poor grounds to the Al. body. In many areas of corrosion (salt, chemicals) the "posts" on the forward bulkhead (being the headlamps) seem to be the culprit even if they look OK. Good idea if there are unusual (particularly intermittent) electrical problems that defy logic and the OBDI, check these ground. Sometimes they look normal with no corrosion but when you attempt to remove the nut they fall off the bulkhead (remember that they are barely torqued down by Jaguar and do not over torque when replacing if they are OK). Thanks.
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Just did the Cats and 4x O2 Sensors at 77k miles, car is 2008. Always seems to smell coolant but no leak on SC 4.2.
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Thanks y’all for this valuable information. As a new owner of a 2007 XJR Portfolio, with just 15,000 miles, it’s interesting to learn about what I might be looking at in the coming years.
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I would ad front end issues w front suspension. rearward control arms, ball joints, sway bar bushes, tie rod ends etc. 110,000 miles and mine need replacing.
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Originally Posted by Jcruisn
(Post 2093858)
I would ad front end issues w front suspension. rearward control arms, ball joints, sway bar bushes, tie rod ends etc. 110,000 miles and mine need replacing.
Name a full sized car of any brand out there, that doesn't need suspension work at this mileage. |
I have a 2004 VW Touareg with a V10 Diesel. 5800 pounds and air suspension. 113k on the clock. Never replaced any suspension parts. Air struts are fine. Suspension travel is 10 inches from lowest to highest. That part is pretty good. The rest of the car is a technical mechanical basket case. But you asked for one......
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Warm climate does help air shocks, but i doubt their still performing close to new.
My 04's front shocks had the slow leak issue in the cold. Everything was still safe, & steered ok, but with new shocks, & tires. Just go through things, to enjoy the car as much as possible. Best used car deal out there, after some work, mine look and drive almost like new. |
Originally Posted by findre
(Post 2094050)
I have a 2004 VW Touareg with a V10 Diesel. 5800 pounds and air suspension. 113k on the clock. Never replaced any suspension parts. Air struts are fine. Suspension travel is 10 inches from lowest to highest. That part is pretty good. The rest of the car is a technical mechanical basket case. But you asked for one......
However, just because you don't have any apparent air leaks doesn't mean your suspension is operating as new. Shock absorbers are wear items, so there's a good chance yours are no longer damping as they did when new, especially on a three-ton vehicle. So just because you haven't replaced them (yet) doesn't mean you wouldn't benefit from doing so. :) Cheers, Don |
High Mileage Jaguars
Originally Posted by CHATEAUJAGUAR
(Post 1004981)
great post CAMBO!
i'm researching purchasing new BBS wheels for my 2004 VP and i had no idea BBS made the OEM wheels! classy move JAGUAR! this is my first post. i'd love to know how many members have 4.2L engines with 150K or 200K or 250K miles on them? i'd love to know how many miles this engine can go with regular maintenance and synthetic oil? any experience? any anecdotes? Tim My 1988 Jaguar XJ6 got up to 360,000 miles on the 3.6 liter I-6 engine. My 2003 Jaguar S-Type has the V8 4.2 liter engine and it is up to 210,000 miles. My first British racing green 2007 Jaguar XJ8L was purchased in 2015 with 90,000 miles and it is up to 152,000 miles now. The latest burgundy 2007 Jaguar XJ8L was purchased a week ago with 140,000 miles on it. I use Amsoil full synthetic oil on the cars which is rated for 12 months or 25,000 miles between oil changes. |
thanks for sharing this list. i am familiar with a few of these already.
Has anyone ever tried splicing a new hose in place of a leaking valley hose? I think I have a plugged heater core as well, but I just use the heated seats instead. |
Tim,
I have over 150 k miles on mine. |
Thanks for this post. I was just wondering how to get the sun blind to function properly.
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It is nearly impossible to repair the hose because the part that fails is inaccessible at the point where is sits under the supercharger, upper hose barb/port and valley. The best solution from what I have seen is, connecting a 1/2 inch copper replacement tube to the fitting to the failed portion of the oem hose barb and the hose. Braided hose may last longer over oem. The part is not expensive from JAG, but the time it takes to replace it is the issue. Truthfully, once you do it, it is not as hard as the second time around. There is not much room to work around the front and back of motor to reroute with SC and TB in place.
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copper in contact with aluminium accelerates corrosion, so that may not be ideal.
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Just bought a Xj8 X350 and am quite pleased but...
I bought a x350 with a ignition coil problem and some rusty lugs
I replaced the breaks disk and all (they were original 17 years old) I now need a catalytic converter and prep it for winter. also a small coolant leak. Great interior they literally do not make them like this anymore. I have a deal with my mechanic I buy the parts and he puts them in NO regrets its the coolest I have ever looked driving but really look at the car ahead of time I suggest even taking a code reader that you know will work to check out the car |
Originally Posted by Samuel Harper
(Post 2288272)
I bought a x350...
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us. Please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post an introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome. Cheers! Don |
Welcome aboard Samuel,;
These are great used car values, resale drops like a stone in water. With their bad past reputation as well, a real asset when buying one. My biggest expense, like many others is the suspensions replacement. Both of mine needed the front & rears replaced. Doing the work myself, cost around $3,000 a car. The Arnott air shocks were about $900 a set A major portion of the suspension cost. A arms front & rear can be a bit trying, a lift is a real plus A tune up, (spark plugs) trans filter, with fluid, cabin with air,& fuel filters. I put a set of Chinese coils in as some of the stock ones needed lube sprayed on them to remove. Tires, brakes, with an alignment should put you into pretty good shape. Not trying to scare you off, but most previous owners just drove, them, & had the motor oil, & filter changed. |
Originally Posted by Wingrider
(Post 2288447)
Welcome aboard Samuel,;
These are great used car values, resale drops like a stone in water. With their bad past reputation as well, a real asset when buying one. My biggest expense, like many others is the suspensions replacement. Both of mine needed the front & rears replaced. Doing the work myself, cost around $3,000 a car. The Arnott air shocks were about $900 a set A major portion of the suspension cost. A arms front & rear can be a bit trying, a lift is a real plus A tune up, (spark plugs) trans filter, with fluid, cabin with air,& fuel filters. I put a set of Chinese coils in as some of the stock ones needed lube sprayed on them to remove. Tires, brakes, with an alignment should put you into pretty good shape. Not trying to scare you off, but most previous owners just drove, them, & had the motor oil, & filter changed. |
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