last few weeks a whinning noise has developed from the rearend, within last couple of days had the differential drained and filled,(i do have a leak from pinion seal,was low), no changed, nosie still there, my jag has 190,000 miles, i've had it since 1996, was hoping to get 400k out of it. LOL. Anything else i can check???? Dont think its tires they are prety new, maybe 7 months old. thx for reading

Geno
1995 xj6

 

Probably some pinion bearing noise creeping in....given the high mileage and low fluid level.

Is it really obnoxious or just sorta "there"?

If it isn't too loud, well, it won't get any better....but it might soldier on for quite some time before getting worse.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug, thx for info, i sorted expected it might be something like that , about 2 yrs ago i heard small humm noise did same thing it when away, filled readend up, looks like i caused the problem by not really staying on top of filling rear end, or as you say because of high mileage its time has come, but geez this has been the best car i've owned, it just keep running and running, i havent had near the problems as some of these guys on the forums, at time makes me think what so special about this one lolol. Any ideas as what the cost might be to fix the rearend???, its a job beyond my garage capibilites

Geno

 

Doug, just there, not loud at all
Geno, not yet

 

Mine was an oscillating whine that started at about 50mph, peaking in loudness at about 58mph. Also had the pinion bearing leak and low fluid level when drained and refilled.

I let mine go for about eight months, topping up the fluid twice in that time. One day I was driving through town at about 30mph and the pinion bearing disintegrated without warning, taking the differential with it. Barely got it back home making horrible grinding noises the whole way.

Long story short, I ended up replacing the rear diff myself, which was a two day affair considering it is the center of the entire rear suspension system.

 

My guess would be 8-10 hours shop labor at prevailing rates to remove and reinstall a differential. Whether yours is repaired or simply replaced with a rebuilt unit is another discussion. I'd go for a rebuilt unit, personally.

I'd say about $2000 all-in

A used differential is another possibility but you run the risk of getting one that isn't any better than what you have. These diffs weren't all that great to begin with. Frankly, you getting 190k out of yours is better than most, IMHO.

Others will chime in.

Cheers
DD

 

Any 3.58 diff from late 1988 XJ40 to 1997 X300 will fit the car. There were some minor differences in the bolt thread pitch at the pinion mount area (10 X 1.00 vs 10 X 1.25) and the output axles have different bolt heads (E Torx vs Hex) but I have mixed and matched for years.

The pinion bearings make a higher pitched whine when they start to fail. The output bearings turn slower so they have a lower pitch when worn.

Get the car in the air and use a stethoscope to find the loudest area.

bob gauff

 

Bob, what's a typical flat rate time for differential R&R ?

Cheers
DD

 

Doug. You are correct with the 8-10 hours for R&R time. Jaguar Warranty time is a little over 6 hours so a real world time is about 9+ hours.

Rusty fasteners can add some time to that and replacing/rethreading broken/damaged fasteners can add more time still.

bob gauff

 

wowow, thx for all the info guys, just curious, are you all saying cant just replace the pinion gear??and assicated bearing and seal, or are we talkign have to change both drive gears to the axles tooo. I work for NAPA auto parts here in the phoenix, Az. not sure what parts i can get, but do delivery parts the place call ,,THE GEAR SHOP, they work on all kinds trannys and readends seen them in the shop, or should i go for the jag boys???

Geno

 

Whether its just bearings or gears *and* bearings the diff has to come out of the car for disassembly. At 190k miles you might as well overhaul it complete.

Or buy a rebuilt diff.

Axles should be OK but you'll want to check the u-joints

Cheers
DD

 

The pinion and crownwheel (AKA ring and pinion) are a matched set. You SHOULD NOT replace one without the other.

The pinion bearings are a really strange severe taper and I have not been able to get them from places like PURVIS bearing etc. I buy the seals and pinion bearings from the Jag dealer when I replace the bearings/seals in a diff. The rest of the bearings (if they are needed) are just regular TIMKEN, SKF, etc. just match the numbers.

The pinion bearings are on the pinion shaft that needs to be removed from the rear cover AFTER the crownwheel assy is removed (it comes out the back). Keep all the shims in the original locations and replace the worn bearings/seals. A new 'Collapsible spacer' should be installed between the pinion bearings. The preload can be adjusted with just the pinion shaft in the case so nothing else is in the way or touching the shaft. You can mark the shaft and nut to get a starting place for 'tightness'.

The rest of the parts are reinstalled. A case stretcher is a nice thing to have but I have never needed one. I just 'finesse' the crownwheel and differential assy back into position. Use soft face hammers or blocks of wood to drive components into place to keep from damaging things.

Good Luck

bob gauff

 

Guys, thx soooo much for all your good thoughts, i will start checking around for peoples to do the job, will be awhile funds low, but can save, i have a couple of options beside the jag dealers, are 2 other peoples that specialize in jags and benz, bmw's, will also check with the jag club guys, once again thx alot, hoprfully i can get my cat too the 400k mark lol cros my fingers