so im fixing up the gold turd

this bitch needs so many things done.. 220k miles ( searching for low mile engine)


i spent close to $1,000 for whole brand new power steering system
im gonna order whole new coolant system as well. all hoses ect


while im doing all of this i figured i would give the gold turd a nice tune up.

i have never changed the tranny fluid or filter atleast 7 years same for brake fluid.

what type of fluid should i use for tranny?
what type of brand filter is good for tranny?
to change or not to change the fluid for tranny?
what type of brake fluid and th3 brand?

what type of spark plugs? have bosch in there
what type of coils? how to test the coils?

where are the ground connections?
where should i clean up well?


any componets i need to check?

 

96 1996 Jaguar Vanden Plas Direct Ignition Coil - Engine Electrical - Eurospare, Lucas - PartsGeek


gonna get 6 of these

 

Well, since it's a turd, it probably doesn't matter, but the best fluid I know of for the ZF 4HP24 transmission is Redline Oil D4, the closest modern equivalent to Dexron III that I know of. I have heard that Mobil 1 transmission fluid also works, but I don't have any personal experience with it. I can say from personal experience that Dexron VI has too low a viscosity and the transmission may seem to operate well, but the torque converter may not lock up properly.

The filter is very simple, so any brand that fits will be fine.

[QUOTE]to change or not to change the fluid for tranny?[QUOTE]

My recommendation is to change the fluid. If you can't do a full flush via the cooler lines, then do two drain/refill cycles, then drop the pan and replace the filter and refill following the correct procedure to establish the proper fluid level.

I believe the correct specification is DOT 3 and any good brand will be fine.

Jaguar's recommended spark plug for the AJ16 engine is the Champion RC12YCC with a gap of 0.035 in. / 0.9 mm. If the engine exhibits rough idle or other drivability problems, Jaguar recommends increasing the gap to 0.038 in. / 0.96 mm. The Champions are inexpensive, but they're the plugs the Jaguar engineers used when designing the engine, and many owners have found that other brands of plugs simply don't work as well.

Based on the experience of many owners, the best coils currently available are the Made in Japan coils carried by our forum sponsor SNG Barratt (and possibly other vendors).

Are there specific reasons you want to test the coils? If you have a Coil-on-Plug (COP) tester, you can connect it to the spark plug end of the coil and watch for spark, but you can also remove the coil and either remove the spark plug from that cylinder or use a spare spark plug, insert the spark plug into the coil and reconnect the coil to its wiring harness. Lay the coil on the cam cover with a block of wood or other insulating material to protect the cam cover. Use a jumper cable to connect the threaded sleeve of the spark plug to a good ground. Crank the engine and watch for spark at the plug.

The ground points are all identified on pdf page 29 of the Electrical Guide, which you can download here:

Jaguar X300 Electrical Guide 1996

Everywhere you don't want to be dirty. Sorry if I don't understand the question.

The X300 eBook at the Jag-Lovers forum will give you some ideas of components to check:

X300 eBook

Cheers,

Don

 

thanks so much will.look into it further.
where can i find diagrams? i downloaded all the manuals offered here.


i ment to say where do i sand well and not clean well.



im spending way more money then the car is worth.
we had this car 2nd owner. a rich famous golf play paid $66k in san fransico in 96 to buy the car i have reciept. ill post a pic.

anyways i love the gold turd. i will drop 2-5k more. i already spent $1200 recently

should i sand all the ground connections or only a few or none

 

The Internet is full of recommendations to sand grounds, but don't do it. Sanding leaves scratches that promote future corrosion by allowing air and moisture to find their way in-between the terminals, washers and points of the star washers. You want a gas-tight seal between these components, so instead, use a wire brush and zero-residue electrical contact cleaner to remove all corrosion and contamination without scratching anything. A brass-bristled brush is safest, but for tough corrosion you may need one with steel bristles.

See the photo album at the link below (sorry the large photos aren't working at the moment). The photos are of grounds on an XJ40 but the cleaning principles are the same on an X300:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

Cheers,

Don