advice on XJ6 engine replacement
 

Hi,
I will be having somebody replace the engine of a 1995 XJ6 with another good condition engine removed from a low-mileage car. The "new" engine has most things attached to it.
Any guesses how long this will take if all goes smoothly? I'm hoping around 15 hours. I've only found detailed instructions for xj8, or less detail for the 1994 xj6 (see below).

Looking through this forum, I only found this advice: for easier removal of the engine, take off Hood, bumper, radiator, condenser, grill.

Any other advice/warnings? What are the best economical replacements I really should also do (like the octopus hose)?
Thanks!

x308 Workshop (see page 896 for a detailed 71-step procedure for XJ8s)
http://www.mediafire.com/file/an8rou...anual_1998.pdf

x300 1994 procedure:
3.1.2 ENGINE / TRANSMISSION UNIT, RENEW SRO 12.41.02 / 20

The engine / transmission unit on the AJ16 normally aspirated and supercharged engined vehicles are fitted onto three engine mounting/bracket assemblies. The two front engine mountings for the 3.2/4.0 liter normally aspirated and the 4.0 liter supercharged engined vehicles are identical. They are fitted to the front crossmember on either side of the engine bay. Rubber to metal engine/transmission rear mounts used for both engine types, are secured to a support bracket which traverses the two body underframe longitudinal members. For access to remove the engine carry out the following procedures:


1) Remove the hood, see SRO 76.16.01, section 13

2) Remove the air cleaner assembly.

3) Depressurize the fuel system, see SRO 19.50.02, section 5.1.

4) Disconnect the battery.

5) In line with the relevant SRO's and sections, remove all appropriate obstructing parts, including their fixing and mounting arrangements. Disconnect all mechanical and isolate all electrical linkages leading to and from the engine.

6) De-gas the airconditioning system, see section 14, Charge Recovery (System depressurization).

7) Drain the engine oil, see 3.1.3 this section. Drain the coolant, see SRO 26.10.01, section 4.1.

8) Before lifting the complete engine / transmission unit with an engine hoist from the engine bay, ensure that two engine lifting brackets (tool 18G. 1465) are secured equally spaced to the inlet manifold studs. The engine lifting brackets should be positioned towards the front and the rear of the assembly. Ensure the front of the vehicle is jacked up securely on stands when removing the assembly.

I'd do water rail gaskets and the b@st^d hose, for sure.
Check the oil drain plug on the replacement engine that it hasn't been stripped and replaced by a larger item that leaks....
Oil cooler bypass o-rings - but they aren't very hard with the engine in-situ. Still, they are cheap and it is probably due.
Some have complained of an oil or coolant leak (I can't recall which) on the back of the head (or maybe the block, or joint between the two.) Might want to research that here in the forums and find the cause and prevent it, as it would be much easier with the mill out of the engine bay.
Many have waxed eloquently about the ease with which the starter can be removed and replaced (NOT!!!) so if you have doubts about it's longevity, may want to deal with that. Although, I don't know if the items blocking access to one of the fixing bolts are part of the engine assembly or due to interference from the firewall.

Hoses, including the b@s!ard hose for sure, since you already have to disconnect/reconnect them.

I like the idea of getting rid of the oil cooler as well.

Add these:
1. Replace the harmonic balancer. You have the time...you have the space.
2. Consider redoing the seals at the trasmission and oil pans? I believe the oil pan has no gasket, you wet seal it using RTV or something. The transmission pan uses a gasket.

While the radiator is out, send it out for a through cleaning?

Leave the transmission on the engine when you take it out, as the bolts are difficult to reach. Having removed the entire cooling pack, it will still be necessary to tilt the engine and transmission to about 45 degrees to get them out. I recommend using a levelling bar to rotate the engine. The alternative is to set the chains on the lifting eyes at different lengths. I've done this job twice on the more complicated XJR engine, with just unequal length chains, but have now bought a levelling bar. 2days to take one engine out and refit another seems reasonable.

Thanks for the advice! Another member told me it took 10 leisurely hours.
Can it be done without removing the radiator and disconnecting the A/C refrigerant lines?

I'll be replacing at least the coolant hoses, exhaust manifold gasket, and crank rear main seal.
possible: starter, harmonic balancer.

As to XJ6/ AJ16 lifting bolt size: M14, 1.5 pitch 20mm long bolt for engine lifting eye? is that correct (from x308 info)

cheers

You won't get the engine out with the transmission connected, without removing the radiator. There isn't enough clearance to bring the front of the engine, so that the rear clears the bulkhead. Not sure about whether it is critical to remove the AC condenser, but I did, to make the engine removal as easy as possible.

AJ6 / AJ16 lifting eyes fix onto the M8 inlet manifold studs.

There is a troublesome O - ring between the mating halves of the engine block and the transmission that may leak sometime down the road

Advice to go ahead and replace it and the proper procedure as Qvhk in Hong Kong and a couple of others went through this

He can be found here in this topic and possibly PM him :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...stions-211356/ :icon_dance-disco:

I would be guessing on this but this may be the one

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre :icon_dance-disco:

OK, thanks. I ordered the "Transmission Plate Bung" ECB4806
https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/Eng...b-6bc59193c8a3
and the "Rubber Seal" EAC4378 (not sure which one will fit)
along with the crankshaft seal.

Not sure if that is the one , PM Q in Hong Kong

those small transmission seals (ECB4806 bung or EAC4378 Flywheel plug) are apparently not available anymore... oh well.

Item # 5 Part # JLM 662 ?

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...ellhousing.pdf :icon_dance-disco:

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...ally-aspirated :icon_dance-disco:

Just guessing

But then Q in Hong Kong modified his by putting in a standard Jaguar factory Getrag 290 manual transmission in the pic below , but I thought I herd of a leak developing in the mating split on the standard ZF4HP24 automatic transmission

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...0-litre-manual :icon_dance-disco:

Oh, I think we were talking about the "Oil Plug O-rings", EAC2495 in the diagram shown in the following thread where I had a long story tracing oil leak from the engine. There are two,one on the front end and the other at the rear, My mechanic only replaced the rear one as it was too difficult to access the one in front where there was no leak.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...engine-194333/

When you fix this, try also replace the transmission mount (guess it was never replaced before) and the propeller coupling.

My transmission mount was cracked in 2 places for the ZF4HP24 transmission

Replaced with new although the original may have been able to repair

Are the ZF4HP24 and manual transmission mounts the same without seeing ?

Yes, they are the same, although "Jaguar Classic Parts" indicates otherwise, and are no longer available. Parts No. is MNA7550AC, plenty on eBay.

That's were I found mine still in the wrapper so I grabbed it

MNA7600BB as the crossmember only

without the MNA7550AA rubber saddle

I was always curious of the post mounted donut bushing that is not attached to anything on the automatic

But appears on paper the crossmember can be used on the manual transmission , probably not strong enough for the supercharged engine

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre