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bad fumes smell, not very good consumption, not good enough temp
hey there!
although my jag is working decent enough and has got me everywhere lately without any problem i have a mystery going on which i am not sure if its a jag trick, if its just my phycho personality (using this car everyday for work) or a major problem with my engine.
So what i dont like and is happening: i never noticed before only last 3 months (maybe the outside temperature lately; ( 0 to -15 celcius).
1) i have a lot of fumes coming out from the exhaust mostly when i am idle or push the gas pedal strongly. doenst matter if the car is warm, if runs 30 minutes or 5, if its -2 or -10 celcius. just do it all the time (maybe it doesnt really for the first 2-3 minutes after i fire it up) and that smokes smell really bad like toxic gas i cant stand it.
2)even though on trips my consumption looks fair (8-12l/100km) in the city the average is around 25l/100km and even more.
3) while on idle, anytime of the day or of the ride, fuel cons goes like hell, showing around 0.1L of fuel goes in every 1 minute. 10 minutes = 1 litre of fuel on idle;
4) some strange noises coming out from the engine as u may hear on the videos.
5) temperature is never at 12 oclock...
6) on of the ign coils makes sparks when is loose. only one of them
so until now what i have done:
1) replaced 4 ign coils, 1 is no name, 3 are Lucas, and 2 original. checking one by one they all look working fine engine stalls every time i remove one of them.
2) replace exhaust from the converter all the way back with and OEM i guess, bought from ebay.
3) replaced thermostat and sensor
4) replace crankshaft sensor
5) replace idle motor or whatever is this, thing that keeps idle (had issues in the past with stalling so replaced this but problem was not fixed completely then i replace on of the coils problem solved)
6) all the sparkplugs replaced with NGK and while i had the stalling issues i check all of them and replaced one by one by my old champion so they finally should all work fine since stalling did fixed.
i have andys bracket.
7) car runs on long life oil which replaced 10 months ago..i did the stupid thing though and add 1 litre of whatever oil (still a good one) but different, once i though i am loosing oil because of stucked oil indicator.
So the car has no errors at all and drives great the only thing is the toxic fumes and the idle consumption. the tricky noises maybe is smthing i am not sure u tell me. I have also been on a track driving the jag like a saxo vts and i had no problems at all after 4 hours of 50-150-50-200-50 km/h. while traveling i also drive like hell keeping very often speed over 140-150km/h for long distances (500km)
Today i unplugged the radiator fans to check if the car will go the right 12 o clock temperature, i didnt happen instead i started having stalling. i plugged back again and all good.
i also removed maf sensor, the car stall for a moment and continued working fine but then this should not be big deal since was on idle. i put it back. everything is working fine any ideas; i have changed my fuel brand and realized small difference on consumption but nothing furter.
You can pull out the 2 wire thermistor coolant temp sensor that make the ECU go rich by design and the inlet air temp sensor and check their readings against the chart on page 78 and 86 : They will read the same .
With the connector dry disconnect several times to wear off any dry corrosion then wash out with contact cleaner . Some people have different recommendations on the contact cleaner . If you feel the need to replace the connectors I have a source to give you
i will try cleaning first and visit workshop if i am gonna need new i will ask you thank u very much!!!
Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
With the connector dry disconnect several times to wear off any dry corrosion then wash out with contact cleaner . Some people have different recommendations on the contact cleaner . If you feel the need to replace the connectors I have a source to give you
They are a cheap and easy item to replace DIY if needed as the coils get there power through them as well as other engine regulation sensors . See link below
thats a hell of a job but is worthy i think... i will go on with these soon i guess...
Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
They are a cheap and easy item to replace DIY if needed as the coils get there power through them as well as other engine regulation sensors . See link below
Well, I just visited workshop and there not any error. Only thing we found one of the O2 sensors stuck on 0,06 ( downstream A). I will go changing this at first point. On eBay they all look the same (A and B sensors) which one do I need how am I gonna find the correct one? Model European 1995 x300 xj6 3,2
Bocsh 13789 is a connector ready replacement for all positions 2 or 4 O2 sensor setups on the X300 depending on the part of the world . The downstream sensors are (I beleive ) the ones that regulate the engine and the upstream are the ones that determain the CAT efficiency to give you the codes 420 and 430 . Ensure you don't have any antiseize compound beyond the treads and you can soak them is gasoline overnight flushing some in the vent slots to possibly refresh them . Notice the color of them as they can get contaminated with things like antifreeze . The X300 O2 sensors are Titanium based and not the more common Zirconium so they operate and read very differently . Before changing clean the connectors as my downstreams had corrosion and verify by looking at the wiring run that you don't have the connections crossed as it happens and this cause a rich fuel setting . Notice on the print at the connectors on the side going to the ECU they all have the same wire colors with the exception of the 4th wire . Also clean the shielded wire grounds at the upper edge of the firewall firewall / engine compartment firewall as the O2 sensor is a very sensitive intelligence signal . Also check the 2 connectors at the ECU are not corroded as is common in the pic below as the O2 sensor wires are in the red connector . Downstream A is the pin position Red 16 which is the pin location colored in purple located on the leftmost position in the pic . Look at that socket to have both sides of the pin gripping tabs .
Blue
Red
Green
Brown
There is a point in changing the O2 sensors that requires the ECU to be reoriented that I don't understand .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-14-2018 at 09:15 AM.
well i cant find this bosch in europe..i guess is a us variety.. in europe for the same money i have found this, from the shop i usually shop. i am in norway.
The under car or mid CATS have nothing to do with engine regulation as the O2 sensors are before that . They are for emission regulations and if a sniffer test is not required in your area it's your option .
The pipes before the mid CATS are 60 mm or 2 and 3/8 inch on the 4.0 liter and you can take a peice of tape and mark it with the use of the equation C = 2(Pi)r to confirm your dimension .
Micrometered it just now and it reads 2.395 inches where it necks down at the cutoff I did aft of the Y joint .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-14-2018 at 01:35 PM.
Well, I just visited workshop and there not any error. Only thing we found one of the O2 sensors stuck on 0,06 ( downstream A). I will go changing this at first point. On eBay they all look the same (A and B sensors) which one do I need how am I gonna find the correct one? Model European 1995 x300 xj6 3,2
Sounds like you have a dead O2 sensor. The original equipment is NTK brand, they work well. Don't use a "universal" type sensor, as the Jaguar system uses a unique type of sensor. The only difference between the two sensors in the car is the length of the wire, the plugs are the same.
An NTK 25018 will work in both positions. You'll need a 17mm wrench to get them out. I'd replace both while you're there.
Something about the replacement of the O2 sensors that require the reorientation of the ECU that I'm not fully aware of . So in may opinion , one for now . I can be wrong , but as a more precocious approach before that reorientation may be needed with what information I have gathered just the one for now as the ECU sees it and goes from there .
Check the shield grounds , connector position , then the connector corrosion condition and the ECU conector condition .
Don't twist the wires on installation as the wires are brittle being galvanized coating and if damaged can be resoldiered as the titanium type sensor does not need a air gap in the wire to connector rubber seal for a reference outside air sample to get into the membrane . This is theory only in how the titanium sensor works ...
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-14-2018 at 11:15 PM.
No reorientation is required. The downstream sensor is the primary, the upstream is the check. Yes, it's the reverse of just about every other car. The reorientation is a way for the ECU to compensate if the sensors are plugged in backwards.
Saw one example of bad fuel mileage improvement with correct connector placement , but may have been other factors involved . Too bad O2 sensor CEL codes if ever flagged are fical and not showing and better defined .
03-12-2018, 10:57 AM
bad fumes smell, not very good consumption, not good enough temp
xj6 x300 3,2l 265.000km odo 1995 model
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