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This is what I got back from the module repair,,"Our technicians have informed me that diagnostics are completed on the Jaguar XJ6 module, but this unit is beyond repair due to the issue being traced to internal circuit board damage. The board is also not able to be replaced on this module, as it is the entire foundation of the unit, so you would need to replace the unit to correct the issue. There is nothing that can be done to save this unit. It must be replaced.
If you would like, we can provide a remanufactured replacement, programmed plug and play ready to go, at $699.00 (minus the repair cost), so we would need an additional $549. This would take a couple of business days due to these units having to be made to order - as they are no longer available as you know.
While not the best outcome, the good news is that we can at least provide a replacement for you. If this is a vehicle you plan on keeping, this will allow you to save the vehicle and keep it operational so you can enjoy it for years to come."
jumper the Green / Pink and Black / Light Green wires at the MAF connector and on the ECU connector probe sockets Red 4 and Black 24 for resistance and it should be as close to zero as possible
Would have to use a 9 volt battery powered meter and not a tiny hearing aid battery powered pocket meter
you may want to put a slight tug on the Green / Pink color wire on the ECU connector.at position Red 4
To test if your return signal is being grounded.as a fault test for resistance of the Red 4 socket on the ECU connector to car frame ground
if you are seeing 1.37 volts in your observation. you probably do not have a problem of the Green / Pink wire being grounded out
remember the MAF has a software problem in your ELM - 327 reader as it has to be multiplied by 10 or 100 to be correct in the 4.0 grams / second unit range of air flow at the correct idle speed
Well today was first chance I had to take it out and test drive since putting in rebuilt ECM, had check eng light I figured must have been due to new module because there were no stored codes or pending codes, drove for awhile and only had red x on Cat & Air & Evap,Your allowed to have the Evap, plus scanner showed 2 DTC's, Checked again and still no stored or pending codes so did erase all codes anyway & check eng light went out but ALL RED X'S CAME BACK, DROVE FOR ABOUT ANOTHER 40 MIN BUT STILL HAVE red X's on cat,evap,air,htr,egr , I'm about to the end of my rope on what to do with this car.
Mine was missing the vacuum hose from under the intake manifold ( cylinder 2 or 3 ) tp the EVAP valve located under the air filter box
there are 2 water lines for and aft for the throttle body throat to keep carb ice from forming
you can make the EVAP valve click with a 9 volt battery and blow into the hose to know it is closing
The valve should be closed at idle and engine off
Do you have one vapor square canister on the left in front of the rear wheel or 2 vapor canisters one on each side ?
There are 2 versions of vapor recovery.during X300 production you being in California may have the 2 canister version not having a simple Rochester valve
This will be in the beginning of the AJ16 section of the Jaguar 801s doc , around page 80 or so
Last edited by Parker 7; Feb 22, 2023 at 06:09 PM.
Resetting the Check Engine light will reset all of your monitors, that is normal.
Some monitors re-complete quicker than others. Catalyst efficiency usually takes the longest. Evap, Air Injection and Egr might take a few trips.
If you were to follow the very specific "Drive Cycle" then all of the monitors should clear. But that is not easy to accomplish on public roads.
If the car is running ok and there are no codes (and CEL) the monitors will eventually complete. Don't give up just yet, Maybe the new ECU needs more time to get to know the car.
Last edited by SleekJag12; Feb 23, 2023 at 01:22 AM.
Reason: Clarity of words
Well I drove it for 80 miles was down to needing 2 more sensors to set then it set a random misfire code, cleared the code and drove home don't know if I'm going to try again or not
Well I drove it for 80 miles was down to needing 2 more sensors to set then it set a random misfire code, cleared the code and drove home don't know if I'm going to try again or not
now you’ll be fighting the monitors for another 10 billion years
well I got it down to 2 sensors not resetting again, Cat & HRT, it's been running at 3000rpm for over a hr with a rug blocking the grill, temp shows in the normal range but still showing red X's on those 2 sensors, Don't know what else to do
you have a car that was barely compliant when new and is notoriously terrible at setting DTCs. their "reman" ecm is just a used module they got off ebay and wrapped some tape around it.
Well been a while so heres an update, After many attempts to reset the monitors I decided to fly back to my home state of Illinois and title/reg there, Got that done so when schools out in June I'm going to drive it there so when I fly back i'll no longer have to borrow a car.
