Fitting a AJ16SC motor into 1984 VDP - Page 2 - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum


XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 ) 1995-1997

Fitting a AJ16SC motor into 1984 VDP

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  #21  
Old 01-21-2016, 06:36 AM
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Default XJR Engine in an XJ6

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Originally Posted by Jagboi64 View Post
What you might wish to do is get an ECU for a North American spec car, as it doesn't have the security inhibit like the European cars do, then you can do away with the security module. Then you can use the original wiring for the starter, and just connect the heavy gauge starter wire to the XJR starter, like the S2. I think you can eliminate the body processor then as well.

If you use series 3 speedometer and tach, you can use the Dakota Digital box to drive the speedometer off the output shaft speed sensor of the transmission, so that will keep the Series 2 look. You could probably put the Series 2 faces on the electronic Series 3 instruments to make it look completely original.

Just be aware that the 96 and 97 NA spec XJR's have EGR, the 95 doesn't so the ECU's are different between those years. All the NA spec cars will have 4 O2 sensors though, and I don't think the European cars have 4, only 2 ( not sure about that).

Regarding fuel, what I have seen done for the conversion on a DS420 was to take the XJR tank and mount it in the front of the boot and remove the twin tanks. All the evaporative emission lines of the XJR were retained, and the fuel pump in tank just wired up. Filler can be adapted like a late XJS, on one side only. For that matter, a late V12 XJS tank might work, as the 6.0 also had twin fuel pumps. Worth some investigation.

If you do this, then all you need is the ECU and transmission ECU, so that makes it easier to find space inside the car for wiring.
Using a non security based ECU would be good but I have already wired in most of the modules anyway. I did think about using the XJR tank but I will try with a stand alone pump and retain the two tanks for now. There are a lot of components involved in the evaporative set up on the XJR that I am not convinced I need to recreate but no doubt I will learn the hard way soon enough. I still have all the bits so I could implement it if need be. I would have to find some where for the carbon canister that bolts underneath the car too.

I did not think of the S3 electronic speedo so I will have to take a look at what items I have. I am bound to have an S3 speedo somewhere in the garage!

Thanks for the info.

Dodgy
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  #22  
Old 01-21-2016, 06:40 PM
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Default Fuel tank switching idea's

Hello to all, I was planning on leaving my fuel tank vent system alone but to include the purge valve at the engine, Charcoal canister all ready in fender,
As far as switching the tanks, I was going to leave that alone with a low pressure pump feeding a surge tank with the two high pressure pumps living inside it meeting at a junction outside to increase the volume under boost when need be. Return line back to the tanks via the change-over valves.

Thank you.

Larry Louton
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Old 02-13-2016, 07:18 PM
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Default It is in, And it fits, Hurrah.

What a monster deal that was. Last weekend I disconnected the 4.2 in it's entirety. This Saturday lifted the 4.2 out, and crammed that 4.0 SC right in.
Ran into these problems right at the last second. 1. The tabs that hold the rear trans mount of the 4.2 interfere with the transmission case of the 4.0 but they do unbolt and the problem is gone. 2. The motor mount plates on either side of the engine are too close to the engine and the angled portion of the plates are
at the wrong angle in relationship to the plates on the motor. Next time I do this, I will measure the angles on the plates on the engine, Remove the motor mount plates from the sub frame and change the angle of the plate to match the angle of the ones on the motor. To move the lower motor mount plates outward, I cut the ends off of the plates and re drilled the holes to move the plates outward from the engine about a inch and 1/2 either side. After all that, I now have about 1/4 inch clearance up and around the sub frame and the steering rack. Tomorrow, move on to the drive shaft and the trans mount.
Good night. Larry Louton
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  #24  
Old 02-14-2016, 09:59 AM
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Good work, glad to hear you are progressing. I'd be interested to hear about the trans mount fitting for sure. I went with the XJS mountings which fit fine and give enough clearance.
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Old 02-14-2016, 07:30 PM
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When you say, XJS mounting are you talking of the rubber mounts or the metal brackets that bolt to the sub frame? I had a peek underneath and it appears that the mount will bolt up with just four holes into the floor similar to the original mount. The shift cable and wiring harness for the trans comes thru the original hole for the cable as before. More news next weekend.



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  #26  
Old 02-14-2016, 10:36 PM
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Bravo !



Cheers
DD
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2016, 05:38 AM
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Hi, Sorry, yes I meant to say

XJS engine mounts fitted to an S2 XJ6 so the supercharged AJ16 engine will fit


the engine mounts for an AJ16 engine in an XJS. You can use all of the parts both the metal brackets on the engine and the subframe and the rubber mounts. You can see the mounts in the attached photo. I have fitted the engine using them and it clears the steering rack and does not hit the bulkhead. I took the engine out again to complete the engine bay work.
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  #28  
Old 03-06-2016, 07:31 PM
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Good work, respect!
I have an XJC and a spares '96 XJR, contemplating.....
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:01 PM
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Hello Dodgy and a new welcome to Haddock. I reused the original motor mount plates by cutting the plate that the rubber mounts bolt to and bend until it matched the plate on the engine. remove and add gussets to the under plate. Probably would have been easier with the XJS plates that Dodgy used. Wished I had measured drive shaft angles before but I am close enough to call it close. The drive shaft does have to be shortened a bit, Put a new center mount in at same time. I am reusing portion's of the XJR shifter to mate with the original shifter to translate the position of the transmission cable in relation to the Trans ECU. Dodgy; I don't think your plans of putting the trans ECU and Engine ECU all the way over to the right of the passenger's calf is going to work on account of the length of Harness's involved but the plate that the battery sit's on is removeable and could be utilized as a place to hang the ECU's from. Good news is that the oil cooler from the Series 3 is reusable if you flip it over upside down to the other side and use the port's on the oil filter that are circulated back instead of the short tubes.

I will be back

Larry
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  #30  
Old 03-07-2016, 08:22 PM
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Dodgy, This how I have the engine mount arranged at this time.
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  #31  
Old 03-07-2016, 09:43 PM
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There is a company here in Auckland,NZ that has done this conversion. We ( Archibald & Shorter in New Zealand ) had a Series 3 with the S/C AJ16 engine in it. It was actually quite a good job, whoever the tech was that did it. The company is called Beacham, you should be able to google them in New Zealand. They've even down a S/C V8, AJ27 engine in an E-type, with an XKR interior. Might be worth shooting them an email and ask them how they made all the adaptations for your set up.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:26 AM
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Hi Do you know if the AJ6 XJS mounts will fit a AJ16 engine in a Series 2 ? Jim
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:55 PM
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Default Motor mount reply

Hello Jim. As noted in previous pages, I believe that Dodgy was using XJS
motor mount plates in his AJ16SC transplant. I had to repurpose my Series 3
motor mount plates to fit. As I look back, My motor mounts was one of easier
parts that I had to fit. Get a long 3/8 extension, If you have to move anything.
I had to level the engine somewhat both left and right and front to rear. Remove the engine mount plates Cut the sides of the bevel and bend the bevel in a vice. reinstall plate on sub frame then lower engine back down. When you
get the one side done, Bring the mount back out, Weld, gusset in place. Reinstall mount. Then move the other side and repeat. Drivers side was the difficult one on account of having to deal with power steering hoses and what not. As I recollect Dodgy had it easier with the XJS plates but I don't know what model year he had.

Good luck

Larry
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  #34  
Old 03-14-2016, 05:08 AM
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Default XJS mounts

Hi Jim G,

Larry is correct. If you get hold of the mounts from a late XJS which has the AJ16 engine then they will bolt straight onto an XJ6 series 2 subframe. You need the complete set of mountings meaning the bracket bolted to the engine itself and the part that bolts to the subframe. Just unbolt the XJR6 mountings off of the engine and the S2 mountings off of the subframe, replace with XJS mountings and install the engine! If I remember correctly, you use different bolt holes on the subframe to those used by the S2 mounts but it fits fine. Dont forget the engine leans over to the right (looking from the front) and that does mean there is a lot less space on the side with the supercharger. The photos show the different thickness of the mounts. I would suspect that an XJS AJ6 mountings would fit and also the subframe would be the same in an XJ12.

In summary:
XJS mounts with an AJ16 engine into an XJ6 series 2 - confirmed fits fine
XJS mounts with an AJ6 engine should fit but not confirmed
XJS mounts with an AJ6/AJ16 should fit into an XJ12 not confirmed

The photos show the two mounts in place on the subframe, the engine side fits with out issue because they are made for an AJ16 (non supercharged) engine anyway. I got mine from that well know online auction site.

Good luck

Dodgy
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Fitting a AJ16SC motor into 1984 VDP-img_2516.jpg   Fitting a AJ16SC motor into 1984 VDP-img_2518.jpg  
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  #35  
Old 03-14-2016, 05:52 PM
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The XJS with AJ16 and AJ6 are the same mounts so will fit fine; confirmed as i have done it myself on series 1 -2 and series 3.
Cheers Ray.
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:47 PM
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Thank you the both of you for the clarification. Larry
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:07 PM
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Many thanks.... off to find the XJS mounts ! Jim
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:07 PM
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Hello Dodgy, I don't know where your at with your car, But I have been driving mine and I have got to tell you that it has been worth every busted knuckle and or dollar spent so far.
Vehicle drives just like a series 3 under 1/3 throttle but after that when the belt starts whining and you start grinning it all became worth it. I would do the plumbing in front of the radiator differently if I had to do it all over again. Don't know your plan but if you want to see mine and the alternative let me know? Larry
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Old 04-13-2016, 12:42 PM
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Default Radiator plumbing

Hi Larry,

Thanks for the encouragement. I am interested in the plumbing aspect. I was planning on keeping the intercooler circuit separate (with its original electric pump) from the main engine cooling and not using the "octopus" of pipes for the heating setup. I was also going to use the "gulp" valve from the original S2 setup for the heating system as well. I cant fit in the original header tank as the engine with all the SC parts looks too close so I was going to put a new tank somewhere probably on the other side of the engine bay

Cheers

Dodgy
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:50 PM
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Hello Dodgy, I am assuming your using a original radiator? Mine had a fitting on the top of the lower hose fitting. that I used for the inlet to the intercooler and pump. We should first agree that all references to our vehicles should be from the front looking at the windscreen and wiper blades just for simplicity and understanding. The fitting where I picked up the pump and intercooler is at the lower right hand of radiator. The coolant reservoir is from a 93-96 4.0 XJS which came from the left side inner fender of XJS. Bend the flat mounting bracket straight up. Bolt right to the bulkhead on the right side of bulkhead. The outlet hose on the bottom will point directly at the back of the intake where you don't want it. Remove again and sit down in chair with reservoir upside down in your lap and with a ball peen hammer, peen the underside until the fitting points straight down. It worked. Larry. I will get you a picture of that one.
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