Fuel gauge out of whack, runs out of fuel.
#1
Fuel gauge out of whack, runs out of fuel.
I have searched prior to posting, but no joy, so,
My X300 ran out of fuel today, AGAIN, but the fuel gauge showed 1/4+, and the range indicated 150kms, and the fuel used calculate dthat I had 15ltrs left from last refill.
OK, put 15ltrs in the tank, fired straight up, BUT, the gauge shows almost 1/2 tank, which leads me to think that the float is sitting on the bottom of the tank (otherwise 15ltrs would not move the gauge at all), and the arm is angled/bent wrongly, which would also answer the FULL reading when full of fuel, and taking forever to move from that reading. I am happy to pull the unit and reshape the arm until I get I right, did that with the XJ-S long time ago, unless there is someting I am missing with the X300.
I found the discussions about the arm rubbing on the hoses in the tank, but that would give different issues in my opinion.
I am open to any sugestions/ideas before I tear it apart.
Thanks
My X300 ran out of fuel today, AGAIN, but the fuel gauge showed 1/4+, and the range indicated 150kms, and the fuel used calculate dthat I had 15ltrs left from last refill.
OK, put 15ltrs in the tank, fired straight up, BUT, the gauge shows almost 1/2 tank, which leads me to think that the float is sitting on the bottom of the tank (otherwise 15ltrs would not move the gauge at all), and the arm is angled/bent wrongly, which would also answer the FULL reading when full of fuel, and taking forever to move from that reading. I am happy to pull the unit and reshape the arm until I get I right, did that with the XJ-S long time ago, unless there is someting I am missing with the X300.
I found the discussions about the arm rubbing on the hoses in the tank, but that would give different issues in my opinion.
I am open to any sugestions/ideas before I tear it apart.
Thanks
#2
#3
Thanks, yes the fuel pump is a tank out fix, bugga.
The tank unit is easy, straight in from the vertical face.
I reset the trip thingy every time I put fuel in, that is the confusing bit, coz from the last fuel add (40ltrs) the meter claims I have used 29lts, so 11 remaining, and the range states 183kms, but it stopped. Gauge on the dash reads a needle above 1/4 which is roughly 20lts. BUT, when I put the 15ltrs (jerrycan),I get the dash meter reading nearly 1/2 tank, which has me thinking bent arm on the sender unit, OR, the pick up sock has fallen off the pump, and raised the pick up level of fuel, however I doubt the latter.
I will be nice to the boss, and rip it apart, and have use of the XJ-S if all falls in a screaming heap. The BMW did this same thing, and it was the sender unit, known problem, $600 for a new sender, it was cheaper to shoot the car, and more satisfying.
The tank unit is easy, straight in from the vertical face.
I reset the trip thingy every time I put fuel in, that is the confusing bit, coz from the last fuel add (40ltrs) the meter claims I have used 29lts, so 11 remaining, and the range states 183kms, but it stopped. Gauge on the dash reads a needle above 1/4 which is roughly 20lts. BUT, when I put the 15ltrs (jerrycan),I get the dash meter reading nearly 1/2 tank, which has me thinking bent arm on the sender unit, OR, the pick up sock has fallen off the pump, and raised the pick up level of fuel, however I doubt the latter.
I will be nice to the boss, and rip it apart, and have use of the XJ-S if all falls in a screaming heap. The BMW did this same thing, and it was the sender unit, known problem, $600 for a new sender, it was cheaper to shoot the car, and more satisfying.
#4
Fixed, SIMPLE, long match at 20 paces, all good, hahaha.
Took out the tank unit, that is simple. Noticed the circuit board quite grubby, mmmmm, but knowing where tha car from, and Ethanol fuel being the main available, it is probably that??. Cleaned it up carefully, and noted 5 "markings" along the serated track, which correspond with " L, E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, F". Now when I worked the flaot arm, unit out of the tank obviously, ignition ON, these marks matched the dash gauge exactly, sweeet, the thing actually works.
Drained the remaining fuel, replaced the unit into the tank, poured fuel back in with ignition ON, and noted the amount when the light went out, and that was at 9.5ltrs, so now I know what is left when the light comes on, not that I do that often, not good for the pump. Then filled the tank in 5ltr lots, noting the gauge movement at each container. Then drained it again, to make sure the gauge went below 1/4 full, which it did not before, and all is good.
Next is the top timing chain, its stretched, bad, and that is NOT going to be this easy. Oh well, stops me getting bored.
Took out the tank unit, that is simple. Noticed the circuit board quite grubby, mmmmm, but knowing where tha car from, and Ethanol fuel being the main available, it is probably that??. Cleaned it up carefully, and noted 5 "markings" along the serated track, which correspond with " L, E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, F". Now when I worked the flaot arm, unit out of the tank obviously, ignition ON, these marks matched the dash gauge exactly, sweeet, the thing actually works.
Drained the remaining fuel, replaced the unit into the tank, poured fuel back in with ignition ON, and noted the amount when the light went out, and that was at 9.5ltrs, so now I know what is left when the light comes on, not that I do that often, not good for the pump. Then filled the tank in 5ltr lots, noting the gauge movement at each container. Then drained it again, to make sure the gauge went below 1/4 full, which it did not before, and all is good.
Next is the top timing chain, its stretched, bad, and that is NOT going to be this easy. Oh well, stops me getting bored.
#5
That's why I always keep a container of Spare Fuel in my car now.
My fuel gauge doesn't work properly like so many others.
Check it out.
http://www.sparefuel.net
My fuel gauge doesn't work properly like so many others.
Check it out.
http://www.sparefuel.net
#6
This was the first diy fix that I did on my 3.2 1995 X300 when I got it 3 or so years ago.
Fuel sender has had at least 3 revisions since first model.
Early models were prone to failure.
Replacement unit was very reasonable cost from dealer (around nz$100)
Replacement is simple... remove boot liner at front of boot (behind rear seat) to expose fuel tank. Sender unit is right in the centre of rear of tank, easily removed in situ.
Just make sure there's not much fuel in tank, and don't smoke while doing this.
Very easy fix. No problems since.
Fuel sender has had at least 3 revisions since first model.
Early models were prone to failure.
Replacement unit was very reasonable cost from dealer (around nz$100)
Replacement is simple... remove boot liner at front of boot (behind rear seat) to expose fuel tank. Sender unit is right in the centre of rear of tank, easily removed in situ.
Just make sure there's not much fuel in tank, and don't smoke while doing this.
Very easy fix. No problems since.
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