I believe I have at least a clogged strainer, causing fuel starvation issues. I've been having misfire and "bogging" issues lately, and when it starts acting up while driving pressing the accelerator past a certain point (varies) results in some surging and loss of power. Even when it is behaving fairly well, putting the car in sport mode and depressing the accelerator just causes the car to bog out, the transmission downshifts but I have no power. Lifting my foot until it shifts up and then resuming throttle will keep me at speed and pick up some acceleration. In normal mode I can get on it, and sometimes, get up to 3500-4000 rpm with little to no surging.

I replaced the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator, and at the same time cleaned off the crank sensor with a can of brake cleaner, with moderate results. The misfire is barely noticeable now but still a little lugging at idle, and the engine overall runs much smoother. I still have surging issues though any time I try to drive enthusiastically, and after i hit an especially curved section of highway on the way to work this morning the problem worsened for a few minutes.

I remember someone discussing making an access hole in the rear parcel shelf, to change the fuel pump without removing the tank, and I would like instructions on how to remove the parcel shelf trim to access the metal, where to cut, etc. Pics would be very helpful as well. Also if someone has links to threads that cover this those would be great too. I did a bried search but did not find them.

 

You replaced your alternator recently

If you can notice a slight change in the voltage meter on the instrument cluster during the event of a spot of stumble under the bonnet I have a theory noticed on another X300

The observed graph on the example X300 voltage goes from the normal voltage regulated 13.5 volts to dropping out temporarily to the fully charged baseline battery voltage of 12.75

This to me would effect the ECU reference voltage to the sensors if the ECU does not adjust the reference voltage fast enough and the returning sensor values would be out of wack before the ECU can regroup back to normal

For observation ease you can place a piece of tape on the needle so when it changes you can notice it easier

Yea I'm going out on a limb here and few have gone before but is easier then opening up the fuel tank

Another different thing it could be is a dirty connector on the transmission body that goes to the transmission ECU through to the engine ECU effecting that ECU , there is a inductance speed sensor in the transmission

You had some corrosion on the gas cap seal that my be causing a vacuum leak through the EVAP system . does you car have a rochester valve in the EVAP ?






Somewhere in this thread is his graph I think :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-p13b0-192634/


Editing

 

I will confirm on my drive home from work in a few hours, But I do not believe there are any voltage drop issues. My only issue with the new alternator was at times no charge at first when starting the car cold, which turned out to be a corroded firewall connection that I missed on previous looks.

I am still unable to lock the cap, it turns just enough to hold on. I'm not sure where I would locate the rochester valve you're speaking of.

I ordered a fuel pump and dremel type tool today but itll be a week or two before I can find time to install.

 

The rochester valve is on only X300's that have only one square vapor canister on the left side and not 2 left and right

See page 60 :

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf

The vapor canister can be rusted and leak and can be sealed with JB Weld

M' Lady P was missing the line from the manifold to the EVAP valve

You can put a 9 volt battery or 12 volt battery charger on the EVAP valve and hear it click

There is a Delco 214-552 replacement but I think I came up with a different #

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...d-81248/page2/

http://jaguarvp.blogspot.com/2013/04...ief-valve.html

 

I will have to check on the evap system when I find the time this weekend ( busy, busy). I played a bit on the way home from work, and what I found is I have good low end power, and normal driving is fine, but under excessive load it bogs or I lose power. When floored completely in sport mode around 50, it downshifted fine but had no power and wouldn't go over 60. Backing off the throttle resulted in an upshift and steady acceleration. I was able to get the car up to 90 but further depressing the pedal resulted in surging/bucking. I also experience this surging at mid rpm range during acceleration. Sometimes after going through the curves this worsens and I can barely maintain normal speeds. I'm pretty certain sediment in the tank has plugged the sock filter, but if Im going to do the work a new pump is going in as well. The pump kit i ordered comes with the hose, clamps, sock, wires, and is a 340lph direct replacement for the walbro 255lph. Total cost was a little under $20.

Still hoping someone will chime in with the where's and how's to changing the pump through the parcel shelf. I don't want to break anything in the process of figuring out what I'm doing.

 

Back away from the cutting tools and do it properly:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...quired-163902/

 

Time, funds, and limited tools are factor, or I would be happy to do that. Speaking as my trunk lid was already hacked for access even though the key opens it, I'm less conflicted about something that will be concealed. I appreciate the concern but I've already weighed pros/cons and decided on a course of action, I was just asking for help to ease/speed the process along.

I was able to find the post i was originally looking for so I'll copy it for anyone else who may be looking/interested.


1. Disconnect battery.

2. Bend down the carpeted panel at the front of the trunk (boot) by grabbing the top with both hands and pulling towards you. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the panel to the fuel tank & they'll simply pop loose when pulling the panel in the manner described.

3. Disconnect the electrical connector atop the fuel tank that's connected to the evap unit (round panel with hose & wires)

4. Enter the rear seating area and unscrew & remove the 2 fuses panel covers beneath the rear seat. They are both secured by a single phillips head screw.

5. Unscrew the 2 phillips screws securing the seat bottom & remove the seat bottom from the vehicle.

6. Unscrew the 4 phillips screws securing the seat back & lift it upwards to remove from the vehicle.

7. There are 2 plastic pop rivets which secure the parcel panel. Simply place a flat object (screwdriver) underneath the panel near the rivets and lift upwards. There are 2 tweeters connected to the panel. Unplug both and the panel can be removed. Beneath the panel is a sound deadening pad which simply lifts off.


The above will take you about 10 minutes.


8. You'll now clearly see the evap unit with it's round retaining ring. You'll need to cut a 5"x5" square just above it to give yourself unubstructed access to the evap unit/fuel pump. A Dremel or Angle grinder will finish the cutout for you in a matter of a few minutes.

9. Use a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet to remove the retaining ring for the evap unit & lift it up & off.

10. Put your hand in the opening and lift the fuel pump off of it's mounting bracket. The pump is simply secured by a clamp and removes easily, no tools required. Disconnect the rubber fuel line and electrical connector and retrieve the pump.