New downpipe and welded manifold. It all came off easily but it's hell to reattach it. I've tried different techniques but I'm at a loss. I tried installing downpipe to the manifolds while it's on the garage floor and then lift it all back into the engine bay. But it's heavy and very difficult to hit the manifold bolts. Any idea what would be the best way? The car is partially lifted only about 30cm from the ground in the garage so I haven't really got much space to work from underneath

 

What kind of names did you call your downpipe ?

It can be attached working from the top with the aft downpipe coupling attached but loose . Did you see the lever method I used ? Keep in mind frustration causes mistakes so know when to back away and you have to put the protective rag ball on it to protect the windshield .

 

Haha.. Lady penelope to the rescue as always.. thanks man. I'm not sure which lever method you're talking about, but yes, I did indeed call both manifolds and downpipe some rather nasty names there in the heat of the battle.

It's so frustrating because I felt I managed to really tighten the downpipe to the manifolds really well when I had it all on the floor. Not sure if I'm able to do that again with the manifold already attached.

 

There is no way you can get both assemblies on past the engine block studs . You have to put the manifolds alone on first . Then feed the downpipe up from the bottem , regular floor jack height is plenty , keep 02 sensors off to prevent damage . I'll look back for the earlier reply .

 

But I'm so close.. I managed once to sort of attach one of the manifolds with everything else fitted but I couldn't manage to attach the front manifold. It was too heavy and difficult to manoeuvre. But maybe it can be done with an extra pair of hands supporting the downpipe from underneath..

 

You can support the front portion of the floating downpipe with a peice of lumber across the top of the engine ( removing the plastic coil cover to prevent damage ) and use a bowline knot on a rope around the pipe . the aft with blocks of wood . This is how I did with only myself and all the bad language floating around . #### important info later ##### Since you are uncoupled on the aft downpipe position in your configuration you will need to feed the downpipe in first and possibly leave the manifold off to give yourself some maneuvering room to be able to insert the aft downpipe end . Leave the aft coupling loose as you walk the front up to the manifold . My aft downpipe was frozen with rust and fixed in place so my procedure was different . Potect from damaging the donut gasket flange , important in correct O2 sensor readings to get proper engine regulation ( STFT ) . Any small leaks as it sucks in between pulses ( it has a mass momentum ) before the gasses get to the O2 sensors make a big difference .

 

I've just been through all of this with my V8.
I found that attaching the manifold to the downpipe and tightening it up first didn't work at all. You end up getting it at the wrong angle to get the bolts into the head.
What did work was this:
Fit the manifold to the pipe, loose enough to move it around a little, but tight enough so that when you are offering it up that it doesn't flop around.
Put the manifold up to the head and fit two front bolts and one rear so that the manifold is in it's proper position on the head.
Tighten the lower manifold to downpipe bolt some more while it is all in place.
Now take out the 2 front bolts and 1 rear, drop the pipe and manifold down again, tighten the downpipe bolts up properly and offer it back up to the head.
You should find that the manifold bolts to the head are still in line and easy enough to get in.
Use new bolts as well as 2 of mine snapped when I took it all apart!

 

You can put some grease or engine oil on the studs before assembling them to get a easier and tighter final torque for better donut gasket sealing . Your take on bolt angle / manifold holes is a good point . on the 6 there is not enough side room to get it up to that point .

 

When the exhaust workshop installed my custom-made stainless steel manifolds, even as professionals they had to get the job done by at least two men, one dealing with the manifolds from above, the other lifting and supporting the downpipe from below. The Y-joint and the connecting point with the floor pipe would need juggling to enable the downpipe to fit well from the top. The tight space, tricky angle, weight of the pipes, corroded nuts, etc. are too much for a DIYer to handle.

 

I did it.. and now I feel like a superhero! 😂
I took it all out again and assembled everything on the floor but this time I barely tightened the nuts on the downpipe that conncts to the manifold. I got an extra pair of hands that assisted from below with the weight of the whole thing and now it was easy to hook up the manifolds to the studs again.

Next up I connected the underfloor catalyst and fiddled quite a bit before managing to get that rod (18) in the middle hooked up to the gasket (17)/(22)

Manifolds have been tightened. Tomorrow I'll hook up the O2 sensors again and put on some exhaust clamps. But for now, all is good....

 

Love it when a plan comes together

 

Gentlemen, I need your help again...
I put on the remaining clamps and connected the O2 sensors and started the engine. So far so good.. started driving and suddenly the windshield wiper just starts to go slowly and then stops completely in the middle of the front screen. Its pouring down so I have to abort my test drive and return to the garage. The 20 ampere fuse in the engine bay is broken. I install a new one, and the second I turn the ignition there is a blue light/spark and the fuse goes again. I put in a 3rd one, a 25 ampere and same thing happens.

So what's going on? Has the wiper motor broken?

The neverending challenges this car is putting up is almost impressive. Almost....

 

With power off remove the wiper motor relay and test again with a new fuse . If good and with power off replace the relay and remove the wiper motor connector then test again . You don't want to arc the relay or fuse sockets . Did you put the O2 sensors to the correct connector , easy to cross .

Earlier reply for someone else :

May or may not be aware of the connector ready Bosch # 13789 equivalent to the Denso and it would save you some big money . Spark plug Autolite #4163 has the correct 12 mm crush washers if they are missing . Anti - seize is not a bad idea for in service removal , careful not to get too much on and contaminating the sensor . Proper connector hookup to the correct connector is important and may be a source of problems although I have not experienced it myself . On the AJ16 engine the #1 cylinder is the forward most position ( opposite of the AJ6 ? ) . So the B1S1 ( bank 1 sensor 1 ) is on that pipe forward of the forward Cat . B1S2 is aft . On the ECU side of the connectors they have the same wire colors with exception of the one important return signal wire to the ECU . B1S1 Green , B2S1 Brown , B1S2 Blue , B2S2 Red . Not to be confused with the term orientation as this is a requirement to have the Jaguar shop " match " the changed sensors with the ECU under certain ( unknown to me ) conditions . Some readers may already know this but this information is for others that are new to this . Hope this helps some people . The old original sensors can be cleaned or refresh to possibly give you more service life by soaking overnight in some gasoline ( small baby food jar ) periodically tapping out softly against your hand and re-soaking a couple of times . Don't get the wires wet . Seafoam product seamed like a good idea ( their label says it is safe ) but I was able to get so much deposits out there may not have been anything left to clean . The sensors can be bench tested with a propane ( not high temp welding ) torch to get them to operating temp and deprive them of the O2 which then can be read with a digital multimeter . But then again they could be " out of range " . Look for some corrosion of the B1S2 and B2S2 connectors behind the back of the valve cover .

http://www.autozone.com/emission-con...82091&cmpid=cj

 

Don't put bigger fuses in to see if it cures the problem, you can overload the wiring on the circuit.
Cure the cause not the problem.
If the fuse keeps blowing then you have a short to earth somewhere on the live circuit.
Go over all the work you have done and make sure you haven't trapped or nicked a wire somewhere.
I'm going to hazard a guess it'll be around the left hand side of the engine bay somewhere near and above/behind the manifold you just fitted.

 

Only had a few minutes this morning. Took out the relays and inserted a new fuse. Turned the ignition and the fuse was fine. Put the relays back,turned the ignition and the fuse went again. Not sure where the wiper motor connector is, so I didn't have time for that today.


I marked the O2sensors to make sure to connect them correct again. I might have torn off some of the plastic around the wires on the O2sensor when re installing the manifolds, but I wrapped some electrotape around it again. Wire itself seemed fine.


Could a damaged o2 wire cause a short in the wipermotor? Not sure if I understand the connection here.


Luckily the sun was shining this morning so I took the car to work. A 60 minutes drive. Exhaust seems to work fine.. I used the Torque app on my phone and monitored the O2 sensors. Seemed to be fine, and no fault codes popped up. But there is something weird going on.


The car has been standing on jack stands at the rear for a week. Not sure if that has got anything to do with it, I'm just saying.
Started driving and the doors didn't automatically lock. The inside button for the doorlocks worked 2 times, and then just died.


Doors locked themselves after about 40 minutes of driving. The rear boot lid opened itself after about 50 minutes of driving. And when I parked the car and clicked on the FOB it went straight to click nr 2 with that loud beep, that usually comes after you press the button twice. It's been standing in a warm dry garage, so I don't think there any chance of water running in to new areas.


Seriously, this car.. is giving me headaches, and I almost like it. Weird.
Repairing one thing causes another thing to break.
I can live with these weird electrical bugs, but I need to get that wiper sorted!

 

The wiper motor connector is about 6 inches from the motor and there is no relation electrically with the O2 sensors . There is a Jaguar " Hard Reset " like a computer reboot to resolve security system issues but I would not do it yet for it looses the Long Term Fuel Trim ( not short from the O2 sensors ) until the ECU relearns the LTFT . The engine will be rough until then so this would confuse the work you are focusing on to confirm STFT as you disturbed that system with exhaust repairs . On the insulation repair to the O2 sensor the heat would probably be a factor on the sensor end so I used a high temp silicon to build up a insulator . Mine was damaged .The X300 O2 sensors are titanium based technology vs. the more common zirconia based , the later requiring a air gap around the wires through the sensor . It requires a reference ambient air sample inside to give proper readings . Since the titanium base does not require this air reference you can glob it on but not for the zirconia based . In order to enjoy physics it must first be obeyed . Get to fix my Hello Kitty Karaoke machine now , I found a bad diode .