A minor electrical problem, but I fear finding the solution may prove problematic.
Here it is:-
Suddenly, my left turn indicators starting flashing at double speed. Ah I thought, classic indication of bulb failure and sure enough when I checked the front indicator cluster, one of the bulbs was out. Simple I thought - but not so.
It's not the bulb. In fact there are 3 wires to the connector block, a centre earth and 2 live either side, one for each bulb. I discovered that the lead to one side is dead.
Trying to be crafty or so I thought, I took a feed from the live side to the other side and both bulbs lit! Success I thought, but it was short lived because the repeater is still going at twice normal speed so clearly the system knows something's wrong and isn't fooled.
I've removed the indicator cluster again and the bumper repeater and can see the wiring loom behind. But now I'm stuck because I realise that the lack of power to this lead at the light cluster could have its origins anywhere in the long wiring system which is almost impossible to access.
I pride myself (largely for economic reasons!) in being able to tackle and hopefully solve such simple things, but I fear this is going to need the help of someone with the right electrical testing equipment. Am I correct? And if so, isn't this one of those tricky problems difficult to trace and fix even if you know what you're doing?
Removing the bumper could I guess (?) get me much better access to the wiring behind but that's only of use if the problem is located there and not further along the system.
I Know nothing about using a meter to test circuits, but should use of one of these in the hands of an expert be able to trace back the source/location of the problem or just that there is one somewhere?
Any advice or help appreciated please.

 

Part of the process of removing the front bumper, is to disconnect the 2 multi-pin connectors at each corner of the bumper, where the guard liner meets the lower plastic panel.

My point is, these plugs get soaked in crud/water/whatever, and the terminals corrode. I reckon that the 2 independent wires for those twin globe indicators are in these plugs, RH side in the RH plug, and the opposite for the LH side, and maybe, just maybe, that is where the volts is being blocked??.

Other than that, the rest may be a tad tricky, as you said.

 

Thanks for that Grant. As I know car electrics can be a nightmare, I'm not too happy getting an 'expert' to look at it as to be honest as I'm not sure he/she would have much idea how to trace the problem as it could be anywhere along the length of the car. Am I being fair here? Aren't I giving them enough credit?
As a start, I think I'll try to access the connections behind the bumper and spray with some sort of electrical cleaner lubricant.
Not happy about removing the bumper, but that may be necessary to gain better access and really sort out the block connector behind it.
Is bumper removal fairly straightforward? I guess there will be advice somewhere on this procedure, but I'll bet that any bolts etc are so solid after all these years that they can't be budged!
We shall see.
Thanks again Grant - much appreciated.

 

OK, by "180" I am going to assume you are in the USA, much like "Area 51", or something??.

I dont have that silly "plastic undertray", so my front bumper is sooooo simple to remove, and even to get at the many connectors in that area.

I reckon if you go to the wheel arch liner and disconnect whatever is holding it at the lower front corner, and pull it free (as in towards the tyre).

This will expose the cavity, and those multi pin connectors will be right in your face. I strongly suggest seperating the 2 sections, cleaning the contacts with solvent, then a spray of WD40 (or similar), and replugging.

The use of a multi meter whilst they are seperated would be handy here, and YES, I know you mentioned your issues with that piece of test equipment, but I would suggest maybe taking the time to revisit that thought, as it really is a simple item to use, and would make your life a lot easier now and in the future.

 

Once again Grant, a really big thank you.
Where was my '180' reference? I'm in Spain, although the car was originally registered in Florida. Yes it does have the plastic undertray. Its just looks like it's secures with some simple screws. Am I correct? If the bumper removal is 'sooooo simple' is it just the bolts at the lower front?
The wheel liner idea seems an excellent one. If I jack the car and pull the liner out, then hopefully as you say it may give me excellent access to the block connector which I see is there.
Thanks again.

 

I have exactly the same problem. One of the 2 bulbs in the front doesn't turn on and it's not the bulb. Let me know how it goes for you and thank you.

 

Mine started fast blinking, and I noticed on of teh front bulbs is out. Do the front signals come out similar to the side markers (push in and over, then remove the whole lamp), or do we just address a new bulb by crawling under and replacing from behind?

 

I actually fixed the problem, following Grant Francis instructions. I disconnected the connectors that he mentioned and sprayed WD-40 between them. They were dirty and a little rusty. A good cleaning solved the issue. The lights are working fine now.

 

Still got the original problem despite cleaning contacts and WD40 etc. Problem is that power is not getting to one of the indicator bulbs. I've read some advice that it could be the GEM - electric module, but as this means little or nothing to me I'm stuck. Are there several of these things in the vehicle or just one for the lighting including the indicators?
If so where is it located please?
Thanks.

 

I am not convinced any of the GCM's would kill supply to one bulb of a 2 bulb lamp, makes no sense at all, but then I have been wrong before.

I would take the digital meter, and probe the wires of the that connector, with the indicators ON of course. You know which wire of the lamp loom is dead, so is the corresponding wire in the chassis side plug also dead?????.

If so, then further "up loom" investigation will be needed.

If the chassis side is pulsing, then continuity through that socket is still an issue.

I am not sure where all these GCM units are on an X300, but someone will post soon enough.

 

Thanks Grant for the advice, much appreciated. I have to confess that although I'm OK with all type of electrics (home & car), I have never got to grips with understanding using a meter. I do know that the cable to the one bub is dead, but to carry out the other tests you suggest will need an auto electrician I think.
I really don't know what you mean by " is the corresponding wire in the chassis side plug also dead?????." All I do know is that one positive wire is OK and lights the bulb, as is the earth wire, but the other one is dead. If I could find "the other end" somewhere along the loom where it connects at the start of the circuit I might progress somewhat, but all I can see is that it disappears into a loom with lots of other wires and goes.........well somewhere!
If only I knew where it goes.
Thanks again for your reply.