Jaguar # JZB100036 in pic ?

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-fittings-rear

Ohio : http://www.welshent.com/product_info...&cPath=664_717

 

Yes that is it.

I should have measured the other one while I had it out!!! Not thinking straight.

Hopefully I can pull from salvage yard. I need to get some lug nuts too. Seems the washers are missing from 2 of mine... Shop just put them back on with out them. Who knows when those went missing.

 

While you are at the salvage yard look at the later XJ6 X308 headlights as the X300 design does not clean up as the X308 design . I tried alot . The X308 will work but you have to get the mounting brackets as well . Both of my X300 brackets are broken anyway . If you spray the mounting palls they come out easier with a long screwdriver . Many post . Around town the X308 has the oval side markers lights and the chrome does not go all the way across the bumpers .

 

Got my rear shock bolt from the salvage yard. Funny how some bolts stick and some come apart easy. Popped right out in 2 minutes. And better yet the salvage yard doesn't charge for bolts!!


I am ok with the new Bilstien shocks. Feel like they need way more rebound damping, but I think that is the BMW I am so used to driving influencing me.

Ride is much better and I know this isn't a sports car but a sporting car...but I'd like it a little stiffer. I am amazed at how flat it corners.

What have other owners done to make the car a little more sporty without destroying the ride?

The clunk free aspect is great!!

 

You could check out Andy's (XJREngineer) drop links. Some have fit an X308 one-piece rear suspension bit...sorry I can't remember its nomenclature, but it replaces a couple of arms on the X300. A bit of pounding, grunting and farting required for fitment, if I recall. There are threads on both, though I can't recall any handy unique search terms to help you find them, just now.

 

Many post on the topic

Jaguar XJ6 - X300 - X308 (94 - 02) Performance Suspension Bushings

 

Yesterday I changed the oil to Mobil synthetic High Mileage 10w40 and most of the start up rattle is gone.

Since mine is an early x300 I have a transmission drain plug so I did a partial drain and refill. Old fluid looked fine but darker, smelled fine.

While I was putting the wheels back on I realized the bearings had way too much slop. Clunk clunk...so I pulled the dust covers and cleaned and greased the outer bearing (no rear seal at hand so I just greased what I could). Reset the bearings and the steering is definitely a little better.

This morning I finished cleaning my salvage yard fuel injectors and swapped them out.

I used a craigslist harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner and some berryman B12.

Pulled all the filters and replaced with new and new o-rings.

Swapping is a piece of cake.

Car idles smoother and comes on throttle better and seems to run smoother. Still not the smoothest idle but my guess is that it is an early car and has the long overlap cams in it

I need to check my VIN against the TSB.... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Quality.pdf

 

There is a procedure on bearing seating torque that I believe changed . Rislone is an oil treatment that works for me . Special bearing grease can be packed in by putting some in your palm and pressing in but best if an open bearing to clean in solvent and watch new grease squeeze out the other side . I haven't the special grease yet , just general grease . There are shims you can insert into the steering rack mounts as I can see a gap from the top looking down

 

Yup researched the bearing torque. Before adjusting it was zero...finger loose.

I hand pack my bearings using quality bearing grease. Been doing it for 30+ years!

I will turn some shims to the needed dimensions on my lathe. I have a machine shop in my garage!!

 

Bought an x308 with red sport bushings rear differential bracket today to replace the dog bones.

Fixed the plastic surround that carries the S/N switch around the shifter. It had cracked on opposite sides of the button.

I saw a great trick using baking soda and anoacrylate adhesive. The baking soda acts as a filler and kicks the super glue fast and hard. What is left is a very durable hard composite.

I carefully filled the area to be repaired with a thin layer of baking soda then applied the super glue. It soaked in and hardened almost instantly. I then added a second layer of baking soda and glue.

Using a razor blade I trimmed the surface flush. I can confirm that you can cut the final results but it is very difficult. If I tried to re-break the trim piece I am sure the plastic would fail not the old break.

 

This morning I cleaned, taped off and painted the lower inch or so of the rocker as the OEM paint had worn away. I used Plastidip and it looks great.

I also did the poor mans steering rack spacer to see how I liked it before making actual spacers. Linked two zipties together and looped around the gap. Repeated until I had three layers on each side.

Marked changed in steering feel. Surprising actually. Car feels much more responsive and road feel has increased. Still no BMW...but more tossable.

I think it is going to take rear sways and bigger front sways and maybe some sport shocks.

Tightened up my AC belt since I was there anyways....so no more squeak. But now my tensioner pulley bearing is a little rumbly. What was the year and model that you can R&R that pulley with that is steel? Mid 2000's Lincoln?

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...87/#post809926

 

So "new" jag showed up in the salvage yard. The place is my new favorite hang out!

Grabbed a came cover that is fairly minty. Crank position sensor, 2 more Made in Japan Coils, Fuel Pressure regulator, Trim piece around the shifter and switch, and a brand new EGR valve!! Swapped out the mirror control unit I grabbed last time since it didn't work (took out the steering wheel adjustment). $50 bucks!!!

I still have the odd "almost stumble" that you can feel but doesn't throw a code.

I pulled all the coils again and carefully inspected the cases for cracks. Finding several with fine long cracks running lengthwise I swapped in some of my better coils. one each coil I filed the tip of the conductor and dielectric greased all the contact points and boots. Seems to have smoothed the idle out somewhat. I need to road test at speed.

I swapped in the mirror control and it didn't change my mirrors. I think I need to start looking at the switch or the wiring.

I had a fright when I got in the car and the HVAC was at HI and would not adjust. not sure if I wiggled something or the mirror memory unit had something to do with it.

I did the old "Pull both pos and neg at the battery and connect them to each other " reset and it went right back to normal.

Now that I think of it that may be why my idle seems smoother.

Need to stop by napa for a belt tensioner wheel and will swap belts and start working on my own Crank position sensor relocator. I think I am going to try to make it with a range of adjustment.

I am loving the poor mans zip tie steering rack mod. Really makes the car fun to drive.

I put my 2011 daily driver BMW up for sale....anyone want a nice 135i?

 

One bracket with different mounts for the sensor biasing degrees may make the target distance too far causing nuisance problems in that sensors many signal usages and how sensitive they are to seeing it in the ECU not worth the convenience of one bracket . You would have to make the 2 crankcase mounting holes at a different angle sets in relation to the center of the crankshaft rotation axis to avoid this which would not leave you adiquit material around the holes . My recommendation would be separate brackets . My apology on an earlier reply on the bearing packing as I write in a manor that many readers would read that may not know the differences and consequences in types of grease and procedure .

 

No apology necessary! You have no idea if you are dealing with a 17 year noob or someone with experience. The advice is always appreciated!!!

 

Fixed the "Almost Stumble" today. Removed and cleaned the EGR, the spare EGR I got at the salvage yard and the Throttle Body. Yucky! Definitely adding a catch can to the cranckcase breather hose.

Idle while in gear not moving is very smooth. In park there is a little rumble, but not bad at all.

Little stumble while driving is all gone.

swapped out the belts and set the old ones aside as roadworthy spares. Put the new STEEL pulley as above.

 

Ordered the Powerflex rear subframe bushings today and have the one piece rear beam with sport red bushings ready to go in. One of my subframe mounts is very "displaced"! Car in its previous life was not driven hard and I think I may be exposing some of its weaknesses!!!

I had lunch with the previous owner today and he was impressed with the change in the car and was happy it would get used and loved.

 

Installed the mono beam today. Pretty easy. Jack up both sides, jackstands. Break bolts loose (19mm). Captive nut on top link so just a bolt. DON'T remove yet.

Support diff.

Remove bolts and old links.

Now would be a great time to change the diff fluid since the fill is right there. Of course I didn't realize this until after it was reinstalled.

Lower diff with jack until you can force the beam in the space available. A little tugging and wiggling and it dropped right in.


Install the top bolts first. They are captive nuts on the brackets and picky about alignment.

Raise the diff to the proper height and insert bolts and put nuts on.

Tighten everything up and you are done.

Makes a nice but subtle difference. I think It must have modified the roll center of the car as it corners different. Makes the suspension work and reduces a secondary motion that the car had before...an almost uncertain feeling.

Diff fluid change tips.

Upper fill can be removed with a short wobble extension. Go over the top bar of the beam that is blocking the way.

The 1/2 square can be removed even though it is stuck in a hole with a 1/2 drive 15 mm socket.

Insert the 1/2 inch drive over the drain plug head and then put you 1/2 inch socket wrench into the 15 mm end of the socket and it works perfect.

Found a medium amount of super fine swarf and no chunks. A little PTFE tape around the plugs just for insurance. Drain in first. New oil with a pump and fill installed.

A little tricky with the beam installed but not hard.

Inspected my left rear subframe mount...got a crow bar and you can move the subframe basically top to bottom with no resistance. Powerflex will fix that ....just waiting on parts.



Insert the 1

 

Still waiting on subframe mounts.

Swapped out the horrible Cooper tires I put on initially and installed some nice Michelins. I pissed away some money in the process but the tire shop gave me 100% credit for the Coopers that were "notchy" feeling. I think they had belt issues.

The Michelins look and feel great.

I also stripped and repainted my wheel center caps. They were faded red/ pink with chrome centers but all the chrome came off so now they are black with silver growlers.


Got a rear tie bar and sway bar as well as all the mounts. Will wait to get subframe mounts and do it all at once.

 

I love your methodical repairs for the car. Love it. Good luck