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No mileage when key turned to run position, no start
Just recently I tried to drive my car. It has been sitting with occasional start ups from my Dad . When I went to start it it started cranking at number two key position instead of start. So I removed the ignition switch cleaned and replaced it now it cranks on number three position and I get no lamps or indicators or even mileage recording on the dash. The problem started after the battery was removed for sometime then replaced. With the test light I show power to the fuel pump relay and the ECM through the fuse. I removed the ECMEC you and the body control module open them up to check them they appear fine I replace them tried it again but still have the same problem. Can someone help me? |
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The possibility is the battery may have been placed in backwards . The positive post goes in the positive direction of car travel or Fwd .
This pops some fuses . Recommend going through the 5 fuse boxes and verify the fuses are good and will proceed from there See page 21 below and the # 1 fuse is always closest to the fuse box large terminal post . Expect the alternator voltage regulator to be suspect until tested so don't travel far out of the driveway Your mileage will restore to the original value with the fuse in the LH heelboard fuse box in the rear seat . Ask how I know this . :icon_laugh: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...533aa070ee.png |
Thank you Lady Penelope for your quick response. The battery is in the correct manner. The fuses checked out excellent. I did the hard reset by disconnecting the battery cables and placing them together for about an hour. I proceeded to try to start her up again, no change. However, after cranking it for about 30 seconds, the odometer returned but I still don’t have any warning lamps in key position 2 or run. I noticed also that the headlights do not work, the high beams work, flashers work, horn sounds, radio, interior lamps, seats, telescoping wheel, windows, alarm, door locks, instrument panel lights up w/ lamps on, and dim when adjusted, inertia switch is operational. Heater controls don’t function, and I don’t hear the fuel pump. She cranks pretty good but will not fire. Thank you for your help. |
Quick off the top of my head the fuel pump relay control fuse is in the left or right heelboard rear seat fuse box . Swap the king relays on the 2 fuse boxes . If you keep the key on while doing so you should feel them click in your fingertips
This fuse also powers the OBD - 2 port The key position 2 ( not wire pin position ) controls certain fuse boxes https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ead6760b49.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a5a587eb55.jpg |
The LH engine fuse box relay is a better relay to swap with as it only controls the horn in reality so less confusion as you swap sets of problems around
This horn relay can be considered a spare in a sense |
Hello again Lady Penelope. Swapped relays, no click. Something different occurred by accident. On the key fob, I hit the arm/lock button twice and the headlights went on. Also, now the steering wheel does not move away when you remove the key.
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I just wanted to let you know that LUNA is a 1997 XJ6 4.0L Sovereign
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Okay, I swapped out the relays on both sides of the engine bay, no clicking noticed. However, did try something different. I turned the key to start position, as it was cranking, I moved the shifter to drive position, the cranking stopped and everything went on, heater controls, headlights, brake lights, everything is lost when I move the key to the run position, turned the key back to start and then I moved it back to park , it started cranking again.
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OK , we're on the same page
The control ground for the king relays goes through the ignition switch on pin 5 of the car side of the connector , This includes the pin 4 which is the key in / key out switch which stows your steering wheel Check that the wire o pin 5 is secure on the car side ground point |
Just a note, the steering wheel switch was off, that was the reason for it not working.
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Just came in from the cold. The ground is good at the connector via continuity test with a Fluke Meter, unplugging the connector caused the steering wheel to return away from the driver and the chimes stopped, because the key was in place during this test.
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Now we're going to look at your ignition switch as a stand alone item .
As you rotate the key in each of the 1 , 2 , and 3 detents the pins 1 , 2 , 3 , and 4 will contact through the 5 pin . The 4 pin is the key in / key out Just verify all the pins close to 5 as you rotate through The 3rd detent is spring loaded to come off the contact so the meter will waver MORE THEN ONE CONTACT AT A TIME MAKES CONTACT IN THE FOLLOWING TABLE BUT DON'T WORRY ABOUT GETTING THAT STRAIGHT IN YOUR HEAD AT THIS TIME https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...10655577b3.png gOING TO BED |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...96ec6a194b.jpg I hope you slept well. This is what i have today |
I just did a recheck on the fuse boxes all around the car and found at the left-hand heelboard fuse box that all fuses were reading 12.4 V according to the battery except number 12, 14, 16, and they read 8.54 V is this a problem ? |
# 10 . 12 , 14 , 16 need the relay to close fully to be the sane voltage as the other " hot at all times " fuses that bypass the king relay and
See page 36 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1997.pdf :icon_dance-disco: Did you swap this relay with the LH engine fuse box king relay ? The relay gets it's closing ground on pin 3 to 5 to car ground with the ignition switch , but it passes through the crash switch along the way See page 38 You can push the reset button on this inertia switch or remove the connector and place a paper clip in the 2 white wire sockets as this switch can fail to reset and can be fickle https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2e7ea1b0dd.png Bed time |
Thank you very much for the link to pages 36 & 38. I have a better understanding of the functions now. It is late, rest well my friend. Tomorrow is another day. I will bypass the inertia switch and juggle the relays again and maybe resolve this problem thanks to you. |
I have just given up for now because I have to return to Puerto Rico. I guess I’ll have to try and get Luna started next summer. The next thing I will try is a continuity test from the ignition switch to the BCM wires and then from the BCM to the ECM if nothing shows up at the BCM. Thank you again for all your help and I want to wish you safe and happy holidays season. Respectfully, Zorro. |
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