Have one side off the fuel filter and noticed that there is some type of o-ring/gasket on the line. It feels like a gasket material, but it is o-ring shaped. The new filter did not come with this. Should it have? Anybody have any ideas?

Bobby

UPDATE: Both sides off. Lots of crud on the inlet side. Had to run the fuel pump to flush out the line from crud back flowing into the line. So the two rubber gaskets on the two fuel line ends seem to be OK, but I'd rather replace them. Ay idea of where I can get these? Are thse a standard used on many vehicles?

 

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...d-return-pipes

Auto parts store

 

Thanks Lady P. Questions... Are those round O-rings or are they shaped like a wedge? These seem to be wedge shaped, but maybe that's from being squished for so long. Also, I ran the fuel pump to clean out gunk that was in the fuel line going into the filter, and I noticed the pump only stayed on a few seconds before shutting off. I am assuming this is by design? And if so, how would I get the fuel up to the fuel rail? Just cycling the car on and off again?

Thanks,

Bobby

UPDATE: Never mind the wedge question. I see where the fuel filter has a tapered edge on the inlet and outlet where the o-rings fit. That must be why the old o-rings are wedge shaped. I did note that somebody has changed this filter before, though probably a long time ago. On one end the threads on the fuel line connection are stripped/cross threaded. I've noticed there are fuel line repair kits at the local O'Reilly's auto parts. I just need to confirm the proper OD of the tubing. Beyond that, we're just waiting on the refurbished injectors to arrive. Jaguar Fuel Injector Service was able to get 5 of my injectors functioning again, and he had a spare to sell me. So I should be good on injectors (thanks Vee).

 

The 4 second on then off priming of the fuel rail is by design

The crankshaft position sensor sees engine rotation and turns the pump back on for the duration of the drive

In a crash where the engine stalls the pump will turn back off by design

The fuel tank can be siphoned as it has no anti siphon trap in the fill line

In a pinch the fuel pump relay can be removed and by placing a jumper between the fwd and aft most sockets you will power the pump direct and bypass the control circuit , Blade type connectors preferred with the positive battery terminal removed to prevent socket arcing

 

Excellent. Thanks Lady P.

Bobby

 

o-rings are round.

 

I think Bobby was asking about the cross-section of the O-ring.

 

I know. I’m pretty sure the cross section of the o-ring is round too.

 

The o rings are round in cross section, and they are necessary. Ask me how I know........

 

Ask me how I know also

 

Hi all, yes, I was asking about the cross section. It's been a busy week. Have the refurbished injectors installed and working great. The engine is running like it was before this issue occurred. Very rich still, but running. We discovered when we took it apart that the hose from the intake was disconnected from the fuel pressure control valve, so we did reconnect that. It seems to make a small difference in the idle. The next hurdle was the new fuel filter and the bad threads on the outlet side. I purchased a 3/8" steel fuel line repair kit and a tubing bender as well as a tubing cutter, ready to replace the end with the bad threads. In a last ditch attempt I gave that end "One more twist" to snug it up. I'll be darned if it didn't work! The leaking stopped. Been driving it around a couple days now and not a drop of fuel on the ground. So I'm leaving it for now. I really didn't want to cut into and splice the steel line anyway. Nervous about it. So the next chore is to see if I can adjust it so it isn't running so rich. I think lady P mentioned above about checking the voltage of a wire along the fuel rail and tweaking the throttle position sensor on the bottom of the throttle body??? It's time to check that out. I'm including a picture of the muck that came out of the fuel filter (tank side). It was like thick glop when it came out. By the time I took the picture the gas had evaporated.




Thank You Very Much to all who assisted me with this problem !!!! It was a long journey.

Bobby

 

Yesterday the engine began running a bit odd and we discovered oil was once again in the cylinder 2 spark plug tube. I didn't do a good enough job last time around with installing the seals. We've cleaned out the tubes again and the surfaces of the head that will be in contact with the seals and gasket are clean and dry. Also I've ordered the URO brand tube seals and another gasket. Any tips or tricks for installing these (obviously my techniques failed)? Like using additional sealant or instead of that sliding a bead of oil on each seal like you would when changing the oil filter? I have a couple days to plan this better before the parts get here.

Also, this same tube had oil before. All the other tubes were dry. Is it possible that the cover could be warped? Has that ever happened?

Thanks!!

Bobby

 

Hi Bobby,

Sorry you're having to deal with this again. One thing to check for while you have the cam cover off is erosion of the magnesium around the spark plug tubes. The X300 covers are known for this and when the erosion gets bad enough the cover won't seal properly. Search the forum for solutions other members have devised.

Regarding your other question, you want to install the gaskets dry, and make sure the gasket mating surfaces on the cylinder head and cam cover are meticulously clean and dry. I use brake cleaner spray to wash off most of the oil, then use either brake cleaner or another quick-drying solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner on clean lint-free paper towels (Scott's blue towels are good) to ensure that every trace of oil, varnish or other residue is removed from all gasket surfaces. For the gasket groove in the cover I use Q-tip cotton swaps/cotton buds dipped in solvent, then dry ones to finish.

Cheers,

Don

 

The very bottom only surface of the seal seats in the valve cover casting can be rough and some high temp sealastic can help

Not too much to come out into the valve area

I have considered using a cut off dowel rod with some valve grinding compound on the tip on a drill to get away from sealant squeeze out

 

Hi Don, I did just buy some brake cleaner to wipe down the head where the gaskets/seals rest. I had done this last time and then made sure they were clean and dry before mounting the cover back on. I've decided to go get a plastic scrub brush and a couple gallons of de greaser to soak the entire cover overnight and scrub. I noticed some areas inside the cover that have almost coffee ground sized dirt stuck to it (that also breaks off). I don't want that in the engine oil. So it's bath time.

Bobby

 

Hi Lady P. I just did a better inspecion of the seal seats in the cover and it's starting to make sense why this is happening. Pics below:



Note the bent metal inside the ports???





Port 1 bent. That can't be good.

I should have done a better job of inspecting them initially. The top right pic doesn't even show how out of round it is. The circle is actually lop sided. And I don't understand how the metal inside the ports got so bent (top picture)? It looks like somebody has pried them out, though I cannot imagine why. The bottom pic is actually cylinder 1, which wasn't leaking. I layed a straight edge across all the ports where the seals sit and it teetered back and forth across port 3. Meaning port 3 was not flush with the others. It causes the cover to sit higher in the center. Seems like I have a lot of work ahead of me. I hope I don't crack the cover trying to fix this. I'll have to inquire with everydayxj to see if he has a spare cover to sell. I'm starting to run thin on spare cash, so I may have to just fix this one as best as possible for now. I'll also search the forums as Don suggested for others who have encountered this type of issue.

Bobby

 

I'd trash the camcover and look for a replacement at this point.

URO makes cylinder gaskets that work fine...they don't make camcover gaskets. I have found that only OEM works. It's a bit pricey, but the other aftermarket vendors produce a gasket that is too large. When you compare the amount of effort you're going to need to try to successfully fit the oversized gasket, you'll realize that the aftermarket gasket will not last a long time.

 

Thanks Vee. We managed to get the old cover sealed, and was looking into a replacement cover from everydayxj, when a new problem arose. After the car runs for about 30 minutes, the check engine light comes on and it just dies. It will restart and drive for another few minutes before doing it again. It leaves no error codes to tell us what might be wrong. The only thing we notice is that it only seems to happen after it has warmed up. We've checked all the fluids. And there is no oil in any of the spark plug tubes.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,

Bobby

 

The coils as a group or a couple can be expanding as they warm up

This opens the wires on the coiled wire loops

Or could be another engine regulation component like say the Crankshaft sensor that can partially fail and not give a code

One of the partial fails is on the single signal coming out of it if it can't be read well enough as it degrades is in the fuel pump enable portion of the ECU



the other aspects of this single signal use such as tach and ignition / fuel injector timing can be OK

A way to test for this is to put a jumper wire in the fuel pump relay to directly power the pump and test drive it

This jumper wire will keep your pump running at all times with your keys in your pocket , so plan accordingly

The sockets you wold jumper are the 87 to the 30 which are the fwd and aft most sockets

Hard to believe the command ground provided by the ECU to this relay to close runs through the Papa Indy 61 connector as pin 7 ( Pink / Brown wire )

It eventually gets to socket 85 of the fuel pump relay

Have you inspected this connector for corrosion ?

 

Thank you Lady P. Where is that fuel pump relay located? I believe I checked connector 61 in the past for corrosion. I can check again though. Also, do you know what spark plugs are factory recommended? I may take another run at swapping those and the coils out. The coils are QYL and are more than 6 months old. I was wondering if as they begin getting hot one or more may be failing and shorting out the coil outputs on the ECM, causing all the coils to stop functioning together (???). Just a shot in the dark.

Thanks again for all the help!

Bobby