Well after finally tracking down the correct seal for my 96XJ12 input shaft on the rack and pinion, I cannot get it installed in the housing. There is a recess inside it the seal has to fit down into. Anyone know how to get the seal in there?

 

Hi John,

First of all, have you compared the diameter of the new seal to the old to confirm it is the correct size and not too large?

Second, before attempting to install the new seal, I would recommend that you smooth those rough dents around the perimeter of the seal bore with a jeweler's file and fine emery cloth. Otherwise they may prevent the new seal from sealing properly.

Third, it should be possible to gently tap the seal into the bore with light taps of a medium-sized hammer. By medium-sized, I mean a hammer with a head that weighs maybe 12 to 16 ounces. Constantly move the hammer around the circumference of the seal to keep it moving into the bore evenly without tilting. Before you begin tapping, confirm that the entire leading rim of the seal is inserted into the bore and the top of the seal is parallel to the surface of the aluminum housing.

A hammer too large is difficult to modulate and may damage the seal. A hammer too small may not have enough mass to overcome the friction of the seal without heavy blows, which may also cause damage. It does not usually take much force to tap the seal into place, and with a medium-size hammer you can feel the seal move with each tap.

Another method is to use a socket as a driver. Select a socket with an outside diameter just slightly smaller than that of the seal. With the seal inserted into the bore, position the socket over the seal, then tap the socket with your hammer until the seal is in the proper position, again taking care not to let the seal get tilted.

If the seal has a metal core (it probably does), put it in the freezer for 15 minutes or more to help the metal core contract, which may make it easier to tap the seal into the bore.

Please let us know how it goes.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don't forget to fill the groove with the spring in it with grease before you do any tapping........

Also, they make kits for removing and installing bearing races that are excellent for seal installation as well. If it is the only one you'll ever do in your life, maybe not worth it, but if you think you may ever have to change the rear wheel bearings in the beast, a good use of $40-$50. Local autoparts stores may have them for rent/borrow, I don't know. Maybe you can catch the clerk between phone calls.

 

I always forget Bob's grease tip! Thanks for remembering, aholbro1!

 

Well thanks for the help. I cannot confirm that the seal is the correct size due to the old one being destroyed during removal. The new seal did appear to be the correct size. Getting it down in there proved to be impossible for me. I put the seal in the freezer overnight, with plenty of transgel lubed up and tried to hammer it in, all I did was damage the housing a bit and the seal showed no signs of going down in there. I just bought a rebuild box from Rock Auto for 265 dollars. Another bite from the ZF snake, this one right after my XJ8 ZF 5HP24 tranmission blew both an A and B drum. Not the last bite from this snake I suspect.