Hello. So last thing needed to enjoy fully my new 97 xj6 was to change the rear wheel bearing.

I removed the knuckle without issue. But I since I work outside getting the hub out of the abs ring was an issue. So I sent it to a guy my gf's father know. He opened it and found out my abs ring was weirdly worn out and could be the cause of a premature bearing wear. Looks like a job was done recently but it was still badly worn out. Might also explain the axle nut was slack.


Anyway I ordered the abs gear. And I got seals and bearings. And a generic non stretching nut to replace the old one (is it bad?)

Thing is. He's the one who opened it and I have no clue what side the kind of spacer things go. And all plans I've seen are not clear enough.

Also. I had no shims.... should I be worried about this?

 

That does sound like a lot of reasons to be concerned. If it were mine I would probably surrender and take it to an experienced pro. Also, I think you should use a OEM nut.

 

Yeah well I might not be experimented on these cars but considering I'm a trained automotive mechanic. I prefer to do it myself than send it anywhere. And I can't afford the dealer.

 

You definitely need the $25 nut....most of your problems are likely the result of whoever "fixed" it previously re-used the single-use nut!

I've got pics somewhere...but can't find them; do a search on posts by Don B with "rear wheel bearing" in 'em and you'll come across links he has posted to the job on JagLovers. Very thorough...may have what you need there. You could always renew the opposite side while you are at it.....and see the order the spacers are in when you take that one apart.....but now you are up to $50 in nuts, notwithstanding bearing/seal costs...

 

Yeah I've seen the guide you refer to. The spacer photo aren't clear enough to see what's going on there. They go though this part a bit too fast. Yeah good tip to do the other side... but I can't afford it sadly.

I agree not reusing the nut but... a generic non stretching nut wouldn't do? Anyway I guess I'll take the jaag one. I took the generic yesterday mostly because jaag had a 1 day order time and i though the car would be ready yesterday. I figured it was better than reusing the old. It's 35 over here though.

 

Also I just called jaguar. Shims are sold individually and 35 each.. how the **** am I supposed to know beforehand which one I need??

 

Shims? Are you talking about the alignment shims that mount inboard of the propshafts?
That's not a bad price (although they used to be $8) I believe I paid $42 or $44 last time...
Motorcarman will hopefully come along and confirm or correct me, but I believe they rolled out of the factory with 3mm and "normally" you need to pull those (save them!) and replace them with 6mm, but it really depends on the specific camber situation on your car.


I'll try to search out my pics this evening... pretty sure I documented the order of all that crap when I did the job..... worried I'd not remember how it goes.

 

Not about the alignment... isint there shims for the bearing? Not the spAcers. When I called jaguar he seemd to know what I talked about at least. But I can't see them on an overhaul plan of the knuckle. And since I dint have any I realy wonder

 

I don't recall any, but its been a year and a half...

 

Realy? Well that'd be a good news. It would explain I dint have any on mine

 

Don't worry. Didn't have any spacers in mine either. The center spacer CBC8207 has a taper at one end, this should face the smaller bearing. Clearer picture of this item can be found on ebay, someone has these up for sale. Only way I found was to assemble whole hub including shaft, if already removed and check if pre-load is acceptable. Use the old nut for this purpose. Then assemble all back into car only using new nut then. Hope there is some sense in this for you.

Item: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Genuine-OEM-R...-/221526459921

Spacer shims: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2311250465...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Thanks. So if I understand correctly when I insert the large ring the tapered side go to the hub side? So opposite to the differential?

I also have a much smaller tapered piece that I am not sure where it goes

 

The shim was likely stuck to a bearing, concealed by grease and was DISCARDED.

You NEED to shim the bearing for correct preload or you will burn up the new bearings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When the new bearings are installed, the old shim is almost always the correct distance. The bearings are made to close tolerances and the HUB is what is usually different from car-to-car.

The ABS reluctor ring is also a 'spacer' and 'seal carrier'.

bob

 

Have a look at this illustration. I removed the whole hub from the car to clean, service and check all parts. I also removed the drive shaft from the car and assembled the hub on the bench using the drive shaft to determine pre-load on bearings. If you consider the removal of the hub for working on, don't try to remove the ABS sensor from the hub. Remove the rear seat and unplug from there. Better than breaking the sensor.

Hub Carrier and Hub Assembly-Rear - Parts For XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

Look at both the inner and outer hub bearings. One has a larger inner than the other. The taper on the bearing support (5) matches to the smaller end. Hope this helps you. Possibly Bob has already answered your questions before me.

 

Thanks. So what should I do if I lost it. Put a random one and measure? Or not put one and measure

 

Btw I still got old bearing and seals. And it's not attached to anything. So the guy who opened it lost it. Or its someone before I owned it and that's why it's broken...

How I find the right one?? Should I order a random one (on the smaller side) and see after that how it is?

 

If you really want to save time and money my advise would be to buy a good/used hub assy and replace the bearings. Just use the existing shim/spacer and you should be good-to-go.

The other way to do this is to buy an assortment of shims (@$35 each??) and start with the thickest and then step down incrementally until the bearings are without play or just SLIGHTLY preloaded.

The dealer will NOT want the shims back so you are stuck with the ones you order/buy.

I have never tried to setup a hub for these reasons. I just buy a used hub assy from a salvage yard and replace the bearings, install it on the car and go on with my life!!!!!

Customers really don't want to pay for setup 'experimentation' (and a bunch of shims).

bob

 

Shims are matched to the hub and not the knuckle right? I can get a hub for 140 at a scrap yard. If he provide the shim with it I guess it could be worth it.

My bearings are arleady in the knuckle. I don't realy want to remove the races

 

Each hub is set-up individually at the factory. When I change the bearings, I just use the original shims and all is well. I used to buy the used hub with the halfshaft so I know that the assy is complete with the ABS reluctor wheel. If the U joints were good then I could decide which one to use, the customers original or the one with the hub.

I have a stack of worn/damaged ABS reluctor wheels that are, is some instances, in two pieces.

If the hub or bearings is/are damaged, then I just buy a good used and replace the bearings/seals and install on the car.

I have had people bring me a NEW hub, bearings, seals and I refuse to attempt the setup because I will be stuck with hundreds of dollars worth of shims that will I NEVER USE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The shims are 'special order parts' and the dealer DOES NOT WANT THEM BACK!!!! If the customer wants to buy the shim assortment, then 'game-on'. Never had that happen though.

bob

 

So... if I buy from a scrap yard a hub and shim for my current knuckle. It will work fine right? The shims will be right for his own hub no matter where you install it?