Right side power windows not functioning
 

Had this issue since i bought the car but didnt managed to figure it out.
On the right side of a car both power windows of both doors do not work. They do not work on both doors localy and dont work from a master controler in left drivers door.
Anybody has a clue where start to look for ?
Thanks.

Left windows fuse # 15 / 30 amp green LH Heelboard fuse box

Right windows fuse # 15 / 30 amp green RH Heelboard fuse box

Logic relays inside door's switchpack

Gets a ground through the ignition switch for all windows

Did LadyPs response help?

Lasted long time till i started solving this problem.

I checked the RH heelboard fuses and found that the 15th fuse was missing.
Mounted the new one in and to my disappointment i have only a rear window that started working.
The front right window still doesn't work.

When i push the window button i hear a relay clicking, but window is dead.

Am i having a dead motor issue or is there anything I can check before searching for a spare motor?

Thanks guys

Today started messing with this window.

Disassembled the door panel, all the buttons and connectors.

Checked the motor supplying the direct 12 to the motor. No result- motor does nothing. Measured the resistance with the tester but it shoes no continuity. As if its burned.

Also measured the voltage from the button to motor connector - while not pressing somewhy there is always 12v, when pressing the button down ( relay clicks) voltage goes to 0V

Anyone has a clue, why when pressing button to open the window, voltage drops to 0? or this is normal operation condition.
Window is closed and when i press the button up there is no clicking, only clicks when pressed down.

Maybe someone knows how it should be operating, because know i suspect that failed switch burned the motor supplying in off position the current.

Mahttps://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...70ad4e0d03.jpg

What do you think about the voltage in the connector?
Now I have a theory that if I have 12 volts with no pressing the window button, that means motor has a current and load.
Can it be that this constant current burned the motor.
My logic tells me that I shouldn't get voltage with no pressing the button.
Maybe the switch button is defected and burned the motor. What if I replace it and it burns again?

I think there could be a window close relay stuck, that caused the motor to burn.
I wonder are those relays repairable or replaceable or its just isn't wort to do that, simply replace the switch itself is probably simplest solution.

What I found on mine was the locking bar holding the sockets in place was loose , this allowed a socket to migrate and loose contact . Since you have 2 windows acting up I would look at the driver / master position .

In a pinch you can use a battery charger to drive the motor up or down . Just swap polarity on the 2 motor wires . lt's a high current so arcing hazard .

The problem was a burned motor and a stuck window close relay.
It appears that the stuck button relay burned the motor.

Solution - changed the window motor assembly and the switch mechanism. Also put the new speakers inside.
Job done.