When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is indeed discouraging that the problem remains unresolved. The positive side is what you have done has narrowed down the potential issues, and those parts already replaced are part of your preventive maintenance that prolong the life of your car: coils, CPS, MAF, cam angle sensor, etc.
Meanwhile, there is no harm done checking if your knock sensors are indeed in error. Here is good read in this forum Check engine light/knock sensors
Nevertheless, it is also time to back track to review what might have happened before the stalling nightmare began, and see if we have missed anything, like battery, battery cables, grounding points, loose wires/connectors, engine harness, cable buckles, etc., i.e. anything that might cut or disrupt power, fuel supply, ignition; or trigger engine protection behaviours, such as an over-sensitive/defective inertia switch. It boggles me that stalling happens from time to time, and car is not completely dead. This case is a real challenge to the professionals.
I think that knock sensors are not the problem. I can hear any strange sound into the engine and no explosion or other strange sounds. However, i have ordered a new knock sensors.
1- I have opened the PI connectors i haven't seen any corrosion there.
2- i have checked all ground points and i have not seen any problem except with the engine ground wire that was covered of oil as you can see in the pictures. I have cleaned it buy i don't know if this is a reason for the stalling.
Looks good for proximity to a body of salt water , mine was bad Thinking .
On the grounds it's what is under the hardware that is the area of interest and the starter location is the hardest .
Do you know someone else around that will let you barrow a " know good " Crankshaft Position Sensor .
Have you inspected and tugged on the CKPS sensor connector wires including the wire run on the exposed front of the engine .
On the LS3 and RS3 connectors is it seated correctly as it has 2 post to engage as the locking arm rotates the halves together , don't be too aggressive with it , mine was bad . The ones of interest is the LS3 - 1 pin as this is the orange data bus wire carrying the engine CKPS signal , and RS3 - 22 fuel pump control
To hot wire the fuel pump and get around the control wires , CKPS , relay , and power wires Have you tried this trick in the below pic : Be careful not to arc the relay socket with the high current
Swapped the ECU relay for the Fog ? Mine hade damaged wires below the relay socket .
As the Papa Indy 1 and 61 connector wires run above the right tire above the wheel well plastic liner my wire bundle was dragging on the wheel as I had no plastic liner , not me as I received her . Wire insulation was rubbed off . Might follow that wire bundle run as it is exposed coming out around the washer reservoir area
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 10-17-2017 at 12:14 PM.
Can you get me a pic for myself of the windshield washer motor attach point as the motor gear casting 3 post goes from the outside into the large black plastic articulating motion cover . I think I'm missing a round metal spacer for the 3 post that make it seat correctly . No hurry and you may not get a good angle on it as mine is in pieces in the garage so I can't tell on the viewing angle
Somehow I still believe the problem is caused by fuel deprivation, hence sudden stalling and difficulty re-starting. I know you have replaced the fuel pump and relay. Question is if the wiring in good order so the pump works properly at all speed, and is there any blockage along the fuel lines/pipes/rails? It is not uncommon that there is water in the tank, which will find ways to the engine room, corroding the metal fuel pathways and the fuel injectors. Imagine kidney-stone effect. Only way to verify is to check for presence of fuel during re-starting after a stall. The prolonged re-starting before a successful restart (and if you do not smell fuel) suggests that fuel take time to reach the cylinders. The engine stalled because fuel supply was interrupted during normal operation.
1- LAdy penelope, i have taken some pictures. I hope this help you.
2- I have checked the connetor of the CPS and it is well. Today i have ordered other new CPS although i replaced it 3 weeks ago with one new CPS.
3- I have checked the wires from the PI connectors and in my car, this wires go by the engine as you can see in the picture.
4- Looking under the car, i have seen next to the right wheel a broken wire. I don't know what is this wire. I attached pictures.
5- i have seen some connectors out the car next to the reservoir of the washscreen through a hole done because the reservoir was broken. But i don't know what is this connectors:
6- And, what about the auxiliary possitive relay??? could be this the stalling problem??
7- I think the fuel circuit work well. If anything (water, etc..) was into the circuit i will be removed with the time...i have looked in the fuel tank and it was very very very clean without nothing rust. I think that problem is a electric things.
8- LAdy penelope, i don't know where are the LS3 and RS3 connetors. Could you indicate me where are??
The wire on the wheel is a grounding strap insulation you can leave alone .
Yes on the upper wire run aft of the PI 1 connector but there is one under the wing or finder from the LS3 and RS3 connectors located fwd and lower from the enigine ECU and the same on the other side of the car
The loose connector at the ware hole is a external power plug with the heavy gauge wires
You can make a new reservoir out of a 6 lb protein supplement jar
Thinking looking at the Aux relays
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 10-17-2017 at 05:27 PM.
The LS3 is on the other side in the same location .
Ensure that the same type of connector is seated and connected located above the fuel pump in the trunk . Mine had a tyrap on it to keep it engaged in the lever as this connector will kill the engine .
You can put the 2 white wires together ( or a paper clip on the connector sockets ) on the inertia or kill switch ( labeled as reset arrow in the pic ) as they fail turning off the fuel pump and other things
You can tap all around on the Aux ignition relay as well as the ECU relay at idle in the driveway and see if the engine fails
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 10-18-2017 at 12:26 AM.
Problem persist. I have read that O2 sensor could be a stalling problem...i'm going to replace them. It is my last hope...
By the way, i have bought a Daimler Six 4.0 3 days ago! xD (i know, i am stupid)...however, in the new car (doesn't stall) i have got the same P1621 and the same P1333 (in addition, other codes from mirror, seats, etc..). Car works very well
I hope the 02 sensors solve the problem with my other Jaguar x300
Hold off on the O2 sensor replacement as I read there is a reorientation of the ECU if replaced and of out of range . Might open a separate thead on this forum covering if they are radically replaced . Sensor information including ECU reorientation page 80 and codes on page 111 for 1995 and page 122 for 1996 - 97 . I will look into modes of failure on the given codes . Have you ever done a Jaguar "Hard Reset " or jumper around the inertia ( kill ) switch ?
"CAUTION: When a new ECM or new sensors are installed or the wiring harness is changed, the ECM must be reprogrammed using PDU."
I replaced the ECU and i didn't reprogrammed nothing. Car works well. Do you think that i need to do it?? in Canary Island there isn't any mechanism workshop with Jaguar PDU...
I was thinking, and the stalling problem should have a relation with driving time. When i drive for 15-20 minutes, car works very well always. However, when i drive for 1 hour more or less, or more time, or i do a lot of kms, then, the stalling problem start.
10-16-2017, 07:25 PM
Thinking .
