OK I have it flipped over and connector removed

 

If you are going to push out the pins/receivers and rebuild the AMP weather pack style connector block, you should pick up a set of tools and proper crimps otherwise you'll be wasting your time.

The tool sets include the insertion and removal tools.

For example:




Good luck! I just faced a similar issue, and so far it seems to have been a bad alternator and/or poor grounds. My car is still down due to another issue, so I can't test yet if I've fully addressed the power issue, but they all seem to have similar challenges. So the advice in the thread to step through the wiring seems like the right track.

.

 

Thanks for the advice. I think I have pretty much exhausted just about everything. Since I have a parts car you would think that this would not be a huge issue but....Very frustrating seeing how I have not had issues with the since I bought it 15 years ago. You know come to think of it I wonder if there is a ground that got screwed up either pulling out the radio stack or the tilt motor. However none of those are connected to that fuse. I have switch alternators so I know that can't be the problem unless it is connection there. My only option is first go through all the steps again and if I can't get it to take it to the dealer with a stack of cash. I can see the money signs now. I have to get this going since it is my only car.

 

You have to pat yourself on the back for you have gone much deeper then many do in electrical generation . Soon you will be making beautiful electricity together .

 

Thanks and I appreciate your help but now I am sitting here beating my head trying to figure this out. It really does not make sense that if I removed all those fuses bypassed the connector and actually replace the fuse box from my donor car that it still blows. I am wondering if it could be anything in the radio stack or up under the dash since I messed with those last

 

also that wash pump heater....is that on vehicles that are only equipped with headlight washers? Is that the number 8 that I don't have?

 

So I am not sure what is on the big black connector with the blue/white wire but saw something interesting. So I went ahead and hooked up everything. Turned the key, not starting it, and the fuse blew. Went ahead and disconnected the plug turned the key and the fuse did not blow. SO does this mean it is in the connector that is the issue?

I also left the blue and white wire jumped

 

I'll get with you in a while

 

OK here is what I did and did not before because I am an engineer and can't read instructions. I did not jump 4. So I went ahead and jumped 4 blew the fuse. I disconnected #4, with position #2 still jumped, and did not blow the fuse. So wherever that goes is where my problem is I would guess. Now just need to figure that out.

 

An engineer is sometimes only as good in the real world as the non engineer that wrote the technical instructions and the part reliability . That's when you need to put on your thinking cap and figure out how it should work .

The most important wire on the whole car is the one from the fuse to the voltage regulator and they should have never tapped anything into it .

They stick to that rule on aircraft design or it would never be approved by the design certification department of the FAA .

The # 2 wire is the one going to the voltage regulator and also the A/C clutch relay control . So that is good news

The # 4 goes to the windshield washer nozzle heaters and you don't need them in your climate .

Just to make sure you have the correct wire position orientation let me look to see which wire color is in the # 1 position .

# 1 is Black / Red strip and # 5 is Slate / White strip .

 

That did it but because I am a perfectionist that will have to be fixed at another time. Fuse not blowing battery is charging. I guess I can fix that when I replace the connector. But that can be in the next chapter. I was not looking forward to my 12 mile walk to work tomorrow. Man you know your stuff. I am very impressed. I was about 5 min away from throwing in the towel till I read over your post about 20 times to try to figure out what I was missing.

 

This is my first Jaguar so I learned from many contributors , diagrams , and asked questions . Bottom line Jaguars follow the same physics as any other car and it has details like pin numbers like any other car .

Differential Equations was like the Karma running around in the head of the guy that couldn't golf this weekend because some other guy made his wife smile so he spent the weekend on a tweeter rampage ......again .

 

so I was going to mentally start troubleshooting my Wiper Nozzle heater but I can't seem to fins a digram on where it is I tried to find it here https://www.jlroriginalparts.com/v-1...her-components but I don't see it listed. Do you have a diagram of where it is located. If it is the actual heater I can pull it from my parts car.

 

See page 154 of the wiring guide : The wiring enters the area of interest right behind the right edge of the valve cover along with the fluid tube . The plastic screws holding on the long plastic trough are brittle with age so put some spray on first .

Easiest thing to do is unhook the connectors on the nozzles first and see what you get . There is a temperate switch in the right front brake cooling duct . But 2 good nozzles would limit the current if it is shorting to ground between the nozzles and the grounded switch .

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1997.pdf

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...ted-jet-sensor

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...eenwash-system

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...finisher-lower

 

Since I dont have the windshield heater on my car, yet (the parts car has one), I would assume that I don't actually have heaters? I see the sensor you spoke of in the bumper air duct, but I actually don't see a "heater". Tried googling it but nothing. SO I assume all this is is the actual sensor in the air duct?

 

The heater is inside the nozzle and if you put a meter on the nozzles you may find one shorted out . My 2 wires ( power and ground return to the switch ) together are twisted up as it comes out of the larger harness going into the area of interest in the wiper trough . That would be enough to pop your fuse if the twisting damaged the 2 wire's insulation since the ground through the switch is no current limiting .

My Sovereign level model has the nozzle heaters .

 

Today I pulled the front section, in front of the windshield to troubleshoot the blown fuse. Since I had the parts car, I went ahead and replace it with the nozzles off the other car. Went ahead and jumped the blue and white wire on the plug and no blown fuse. So to troubleshoot this fuse in the future here is what I would do.
1. Remove all relays as you said.
2. Remove the wires that go to the nozzle heaters

Then I would go ahead and start the car to see if the fuse blows again. If it does not I would hook up all the relays again. Start the car. Hook up one set of wires to the nozzles at a time and try to identify if one of the nozzle heaters is causing you a problem. Make sure you have a boat load of fuses. I think I ended up going through about 20 before I disconnected the wire.

 

Well this is all pretty interesting....can I come on board here....I also have the same symptoms as CDMA ...I'll double check these rH fuses tomorrow but before I do ...what do you mean by the 'sounder' ?

Also. there is a black plastic cylinder connected to the alternator earth and output post via a red two pin plug ...what's that?

 

Sorry , should say ...mine is a UK model '97 4.0L

 

This is the process I would go through
First, if you do have blown 5amp fuse go by yourself about 10-20 because you will need them
1. Check the fuse. If it is blown replace it and start the car. If it blows again then replace it.
2. Disconnect the cable that goes to the alarm speaker, sounder.
3, Disconnect the cables that go to your washer nozzle heaters. Yes, there are heaters in the nozzle.
4. Disconnect all the relays as she describes above.
4. Start the car. Blown fuse again? clean the connectors on the two plugs on front right engine bay by the sounder. I think they are 16 pin connectors
5. If no fuse is blown hook up the sounder first, start the car, hook one nozzle up, start the car, and hook up the last one.