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Tried some Griot's Garage paint correction polish, then "2 in 1" polish and poly sealer on the trunk to see how that would help the failing clear coat. It of course can't do any magic with fogginess within the clear coat itself, but it really did help a lot with only one pass each with the buffer. Went from oxidized dull to pretty shiny, although you're not going to read a newspaper in it. So I may try again with a few passes and concerted effort.
Also installed a tail light modulator with an LED in the high mounted stop light, like many of us have on motorcycles. It'll flash a few times, then pause for a while, then flash a few times again while on the brake pedal. I drive daily in heavy traffic, so I always worry that all of work and care will be for naught when someone rear-ends me.... so maybe this will improve the odds a bit in my favor.
...and finally set my TPMS kit to F and pounds, versus C and atmospheres
Took my 96 VDP in for an alignment Put new shims on the rear-end custom made. Apparently the rear springs do sag a little over time requiring you to have thinner shims on the 1/2 axles. if you need shims I have a machine shop that will make them. $75 each.
Also time for a wash and wax and leather conditioner.
Steve
Finally got ny car back from the painter. Has it in the shop on a windy day and they dropped the garage door on it and had to get the hood replaced and painted.
I purchased an extra shower filter & housing assembly to make a tool for cleaning the filters about 3 weeks ago. (Filters should last 6 mo. and cost about $10-$12 ea but the kids' complain their shower flow is reduced to "unusable" about every 2 weeks!) Started searching the shop for said tool yesterday to clean a couple of shower filters. Haven't found it yet. But in the process, I've located a new pair of X300 bootlid struts that have been missing for 5-6 years, and a roll of string for the string-trimmer we (the youngest lad and I) spent a week looking for, until giving-up and buying some yesterday morning.
SO...I've renewed the port bootlid strut. Starboard side will have to wait until I have the fuel tank out for fuel-pump renewal. Just too much wiring loom in the way on the starboard side, even if I were to remove the CD changer first. Odometer eased past a quarter-million miles this week, and pump is likely original (I've had the car since 63K mi and it hasn't been renewed during my ownership) so I fear it won't be too far in the future.
Renewed the engine air filter
Glued the starboard body-exhauster louver back into the starboard boot inner lining.
I purchased an extra shower filter & housing assembly to make a tool for cleaning the filters about 3 weeks ago. (Filters should last 6 mo. and cost about $10-$12 ea but the kids' complain their shower flow is reduced to "unusable" about every 2 weeks!) Started searching the shop for said tool yesterday to clean a couple of shower filters. Haven't found it yet. But in the process, I've located a new pair of X300 bootlid struts that have been missing for 5-6 years, and a roll of string for the string-trimmer we (the youngest lad and I) spent a week looking for, until giving-up and buying some yesterday morning.
SO...I've renewed the port bootlid strut. Starboard side will have to wait until I have the fuel tank out for fuel-pump renewal. Just too much wiring loom in the way on the starboard side, even if I were to remove the CD changer first. Odometer eased past a quarter-million miles this week, and pump is likely original (I've had the car since 63K mi and it hasn't been renewed during my ownership) so I fear it won't be too far in the future.
Renewed the engine air filter
Glued the starboard body-exhauster louver back into the starboard boot inner lining.
I replaced the boot lid struts a few months back and made a tool to access the inner left side clip from wire clothes hanger. This negates the need to remove the tank.
It's a case of filing one end flat and bending the end back to make a hook to pull the clip out to release the strut. Hopefully the photos will help.
As for my X300 today, I am waiting for an A1 Cardone re-manufactured MAF Sensor to be delivered. Looking forward to getting back to 'normal' MPG's again.
put it in the shop to repair exhaust manifold gasket leak...approaching 212 thousand miles,next will be new continental extremecontact sport tires if I decide to keep it rather than get a xkr..
Some idiot rear ended my Alice on 6/7, so I'm dealing with insurance and that nonsense, and currently trying to source parts. If I'm lucky I can argue a clear coat blend and restore out of it. If not, then I'mma keep her and... I'm not sure what I'll do. @michaelmedina2005 I've had issues with that, and they just go away over time for some reason. It turned on once when I was backing up a hill, then magically dissappeared about 10 minutes of driving later.
Proper 'Jag day' today, started with lower rear shock bush as it started knocking recently.
These things are tight. I mean it was easier to drive out front upper wishbones!
Broke my 3/8 inch ratchet while removing it!
A threaded rod with some thrust bearings and a standard 30mm socket(impact will be too thick) did the trick but had to resort to using breakers bar all the way out.
Then removed and welded back my rear exhaust box, only 18 months old but already cracked...
Next on the list, was upper right side shock bush. They only last a year for me, these are genuine Jag bushes...
I have now fitted bigger bushes at the bottom, I've used rear upper shock isolators at the front, they are similar material, just bigger, thicker and last much better than these.
Then it was time for front brake discs as recently I started to get a wheel wobble when breaking. This turned into a proper mission...
One of the bolts didn't want to come out, even my 450nm power horse impact wrench couldn't do it and it rounded bolt head! :O
With so little space to get to it I had to get creative and unfortunately had to sacrifice one of my impact sockets. I've cut half of the socket open and basically rebuilt it with welding and pretty much fusing it with the bolt hold. Breakers bar and pipe over it finally cracked it but was one of the worst bolts I ever had to remove.
As a last job, I've finally replaced lower radiator bushes, yes, they've seen better days
So I get a call from my mechanic....we have some good news and have some bad news....Good news we replaced all your seal on your car and it no longer leaks anywhere. The bad news the wind caught the 25ft garage door and it fell on your hood. Well, they tried to repair it themselves and looked like crap and that is what I told them. So they said to take it anywhere and we will pay. $3400 later and
GBP13 including postage from Hong Kong? This is too good to be true.
Aftermarket ones usually have a flat base. Factory originals have a curved base that matches the bonnet profile. So it is very difficult to find a good match, buying new or used.
05-13-2019, 08:43 AM
