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I topped up the R134A in the AC system and it is holding around 35psi.
The AC died a few months back and I have been looking into the cause this week. The pressure was low, so after topping up I was relieved to see the AC clutch engaging and am now getting cold air in the cabin again.
I am aware that I may have a leak and will be monitoring it over the next few days to see if the pressure drops.
This was the first time I had problems with the AC in my 2.5 years with the car and I suspect there is a leak somewhere.
Looked at it and thought; what on earth possessed me to buy it in the first place?
Mad.
You are not alone. Every now and then strangers passing by my car stop and look at the licence details to find out how old is the car, thinking that such car must be something from the 80's.... When they find the car even has a stick, the thoughts push the manufacturing year further back.
Have been getting the intermittent P0411 code and after around 6 months I decided to set out to fix it.
All the components seem to be in good condition, and I am getting air flowing from the Secondary Air Pump, although it did feel a little weak at the pump.
I decided to swap out the Check Valve as this was the cheapest part option, The new one was had a lot more resistance when blowing through it than the old one
This didn't solve the pending codes, so have now ordered a used Secondary Air Pump which should arrive next week.
Fingers crossed the replacement pump does the trick. TBC
I started it up and listened to the radio 😂
I'm having a slight parasitic draw on my battery when the cars running but I'm pretty sure it's just because my battery is from 2013 I found out.
I replaced the rear Brake pads today, after finally purchasing the correct set. I am amazed that Jaguar brakes don't have any low pad ward mechanisms be it mechanical or electrical.
I guess jaguar just assume we are all pedantic fastidious, owners and keep an eye on them
I found the cruise control actuator bellows had a small tear this week. I started looking for a replacement and thought I should have a go at a repair, nothing to lose.
Managed to prepare a piece of bicycle inner tube as a patch and secured it down with some red RTV gasket sealant. It is flexible and holds a vacuum.
I noticed the kick down now happens almost immediately now as opposed to what was only a momentary delay before.
Seems to be working fine for now, will see how long it lasts
Bicycle inner tube seems to have the right amount of flex
Last edited by Nobeel Masri; Apr 5, 2020 at 07:16 PM.
Today I replaced the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
The original one was showing anything between 10-50 degrees Fahrenheit above ambient sensor and relative outside temps. The readings were hugely erratic, which seemed to cause a drop in MPG.
After a brief test drive, it looks like I have might regained around 5 MPG, but will be monitoring the sensor, STFT, LTFT in the coming weeks.
At the very least the idle and acceleration seem to be a lot smoother and consistent.
Injected my silks with bilt hambner wax and taken wheel arch guards off and found no rust at all lol
cleaned front springs a bit and sprayed them with black plastic paint to tidy them up and then fitted a new cd changer which works and a phone holder
,also a nice jaguar tool kit a friend gave me for the boot 👌🏻
Hi Parker 2,
The Intake Air and Coolant temp sensors are different though. The coolant sensor is contained within the solid metal end and the intake sensor has holes to allow air to flow over the sensor.
The replacement intake air sensor I have seems to read at least 10 degrees hotter than the ambient air sensor though. I was wondering if this is normal or if I have bought a faulty sensor.
This doesn't seem to affect anything though as the engine is running really well.
I am now looking at voltage drops from 14.5 to 12 then jumps back to 14.5, which seems to suggest the system is defaulting to the battery for power. I am going to check the alternator in particular the ground today and see if that makes a difference. I suspect some more investigation into the alternator is needed though.
14.5 is on the high side and there is a possibility that the ECU can not work with it to deliver a 5.0 reference voltage to the engine regulation sensors
Clean the small round connector on the alternator or just pull off and on several times when not lubed yet
The alternator has very robust bearings and brushes observed from a couple of X300s tinkerd with
The voltage regulator is a IN435 as a high response rate version
The alternator B + cable ties into the starter solenoid as a short cable and the next cable carries on to a large insulated positive post on the right finder wheel wall from the hood open side
See page 50 as the Blue / White wire is the reference voltage wire on the IATS
Papa Indy 105-11 pin on the ECU is your 5.0 reference voltage
Hi Parker 2,
Thanks for the info on the voltage regulator.
I only had time to check the engine bay grounds which didn't look too corroded, but I gave them a clean anyway. After a test drive it seems to be now relatively stable around 14.3 volts and varying between 14.5 and 13.2 volts.
I don't know the history of my alternator so I will plan to give it a clean up and check the connectors as you suggested. If that doesn't help, than I will look to replace the regulator and brushes.
TBC.
Last edited by Nobeel Masri; May 19, 2020 at 12:21 PM.
I didn't have any luck getting the IN435 regulator cheaper with Ebay vendors as they ( 2 ) would send me the slower response version ( stamped IN225 or something ) that would also fail in more ways on the test bench then the original regulator
My opinion is the brick store vendor has their future invested in getting you the correct and reputable part
