You seem to have hit the big ones:
1. You replaced all 6 coils with Made In Japan ones
2. You replaced all spark plugs. (You sure they aren’t supposed to be RC12YCC? They were changed for the 4.0 engine in a TSB)
3. You replaced the MAF sensor.
4. You replaced both oxygen sensors.

The only sensor that could still pose a problem is the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Inexpensive.

I can’t really hear your issue, but I would love to know what your long term fuel trims are. Can you plug into your OBD2 port and see if you have any stored codes?

So Bank 2 is a disaster. Your STFT maxes out for much of the video. Guess which bank Coil #6 is? That right! Bank 2.

You seem to have at least 2 problems.

The second problem is your long term trims are both high at 8. You either have a vacuum leak (remember the post I made about blowing smoke into the intake?), or your TPS is bad. If your mechanic friend is so inclined, ask him to make sure there are no vacuum leaks, especially check around the intake manifold. Long term trims indicate that you have a leak somewhere. With the way the oxygen sensors are looking, you could have a major exhaust manifold leak perhaps? Take that shield off and see what things look like before the lambda sensors. No one cares about anything after that, as it won’t affect anything the engine sees. I suspect it’s the intake manifold though, IF there’s a leak.

I had an issue where my long term trims we’re constantly in the 7-10 range, and it was the Throttle Poteniometer Sensor, even though it was bench testing perfectly. It is an expensive part, but as soon as I replaced that, my long term trims dropped to zero.

Frederik,

Lets work on the problems we know first, and then we can attack what comes next. Let’s not worry about short trims. Those should be constantly shooting above and below zero, constantly adjusting the fuel ratio to get to the perfect ratio. If your torque app is anything like mine, the reader only takes a reading every second or two, so it’s not really the best tool to use to track short trims. You would need something reading the trims constantly and graphing it. Long term trims will move of the car is driven enough.

Id like to see a p0301 code thrown now that you’ve moved the coil over to Cylinder 1, but these cars are not generous with the codes. I’m assuming all your cylinder and coils are dry?

By the way, the MAF appears fine, as does your coolant sensor. The fact that Bank 2 is bad and Bank 1 is better, or at least different....I have to involve the exhaust manifold now. Perhaps the oxygen sensor for Bank 2 is bad? There’s nothing on the intake side that would differentiate between banks, so we won’t find anything catastrophic there.

Heres what we can do. Switch oxygen sensors to see if the LTFT start to go up in Bank 1 and start to move down in Bank 2. That could rule out the oxygen sensor.

I don’t know if you have a catalytic converter, but a blockage there could cause this issue.

Finally a major leak in the exhaust from the Bank 2 exhaust manifold up to the oxygen sensor joint. Anything after that is no longer metered. If you remove the shield covering the exhaust manifold, do you see any massive cracks? Can your mechanic check for leaks on that end?

Lastly, have you checked the ECU plugs for corrosion? This is a common issue and easily resolved no less! When you unplug the red and black harness, your looking for a bright green coating. Spraying those pins down with an electric contact cleaner isn’t going to hurt anything even if you don’t find anything wrong.

I think the biggest clue to chase right now is how Bank 2 is very different from Bank 1.

Ive chased a lot of issues with my engine, and I was able to get it back to a LTFT of zero. I’m not sure if everything I did was necessary (I did throw a lot of parts at the car) but I learned a lot in the process!

Oddly enough, no. There is no gasket or sealant between the throttle body and intake manifold. Strange but true. It’s metal to metal.

It will take awhile for the Long Term Fuel Trim to adjust. The fact that both sides are jumping is excellent progress. I suspect you’ll have LTFT on both sides matching in a week or two.

You mentioned that there was smoke coming from somewhere on the throttle body? When you seal off the MAF, there shouldn’t be smoke coming from anywhere. You did this with everything fully together? The throtttle body butterfly is clean, right?

The idle may smooth out as you drive, but assuming both banks carry a LTFT of 8, we still have a problem on the intake side. Fixing the oxygen sensor will likely eliminate issues on the exhaust side.

You may have a faulty TPS, which is an expensive part.

Ok, let’s hold off on that TPS until all other possibilities are investigated.

Any smoke would be bad from the throttle body as all other joints should be sealed. That will eventually need to be addressed, but I agree, take care of Cylinder 6 first.