1995 xj6. Head gasket blew. Found some write ups figured it would be a fun way to spend the day and fix the old girl up. Well 2 bolt are basically rust welded to my intake. I have absolutely no idea how to remove the can gears cuz the bolts are blocked by a bent piece of metal and one head bolt started to round off on me. Any one want parts off a Canadian market Jag that's in Florida now?
😤😤🤬🤬🤬😡

 

at Auto Zone in KC area , some in Florida

https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bo...olt-extractors

There are taller and thicker ones on the store shelf but they may be too thick

 

Yea that'll work for the head bolt. But I can't even get a wrench on the two under my intake. I only paid $800 for the whole car and currently put about another $800 into it between a brake booster and now this head gasket bs and I honestly don't think the car is worth 1600 in good mechanical condition. I'd love to keep it and do a full engine swap to an xjr6 motor but that was only practical while I could drive the car and save up to do that. Apparently life really sucks when youre 27 and can't hold a job 🤷🏼‍♂️

 

Let me look at the 2 under the intake ( manifold attached to the head ? )

My be different on the non supercharged AJ16

 

This one is in-between intake runner 3 and 4

This one is the last bolt on the intake closest to the firewall

 

Looking

 

Do you know how much it might be to have a shop finish the job? At this point I think that's my best bet cuz diy does not seem to work for me. Honestly my options are to either put the Jag on the side of my apartment and get my girl a newer car so I can use her daily while I work on the Jag to make it really what I want. Or send it to a shop and pay whatever they ask to get it back on the road. Cuz right now the Jag is toast. And I need to be able to get to and from work reliably.

 

Labor is going to kill you, even a bottom of the barrel shop is going to ask $1500+. Slow down and try to get the job done

 

Yea that's how much I was thinking. But I think my only option at this point is to go at it with cutting tools. Or start selling parts and hang on to the body. My original plan was an xjr6 swap on a haltech ecu with better injectors and everything to make maybe 450 or 500 whp. I don't really have room to keep the car but I can make it work a little bit and recoup some money by selling off the parts I wasn't gonna keep anyway.

 

On the left rear the non supercharger version is clear of obstructions . There is a coolant pipe below the head / engine block split

The 2 prong connector is to the starter solenoid and is on a bracket that in some cases relocated in the " Lamba Mod " that moves the 2 /4 prong O2 sensor connectors

Do not cross connect the O2 connectors on re installation
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The top pic is from the center between cylinder 3 and 4 where the EGR valve and EGR temp sensor sit

I thought the superchargered version did not have a EGR

There was a change in head gasket part #s to resolve a issue , yours being a early 95
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...%20Leakage.pdf

 

Perhaps not as practical as you might think: different gearbox, different fuel tank (yeah, you can probably fit the extra pump to the existing tank, but you'll still have to arrange for the wiring and control logic to operate it) I have since forgotten all the other differences, but they are documented here, somewhere....basically, the supercharged car isn't very similar to the NA version below the skin. No idea what a haltech ecu is, but assuming you intend to plod forward with this swap idea, you'd be well-advised to obtain the ecu from the engine donor car and send it to member XJR Engineer for rework.

 

The manifold bolts can all be extracted, although some of them need to be moved almost half of a flat at a time, and are a real PITA. Try a good quality FLAT ring spanner, ie with no crank shape between the head and the shaft of the spanner. As you will have gathered from the other inlet manifold bolts, they are very tight, but they yield after a very small amount of rotation, and come out with finger pressure thereafter.
Given that head gasket replacement is unusual on these cars, I dont speak from experience, but could you not remove the head with the inlet manifold still attached? There are cables which run through between the "fingers" of the manifold, but these need to be disconnected anyway, and even if you could lift the head a few inches, the manifold bolts would become fairly straightforward.

 

PS The extractor shown above by Parker 2 will remove (or snap off) any fastening known to man, and a set of them is a must for anyone who works on older cars. Dont be planning on reusing the nut/bolt afterwards though...