Hey guys,

What are the major evolutions and upgrades of the 1998-2003 Vanden Plas and Supercharged VDP? Aside from the rear bumper sensor 2001 and the metal tensioners in 2002

Also
what would you think is fair to pay for a well maintained

2002 VDP Supercharged with 114k asking price 9k
and
1999 VDP Supercharged with 47 K asking price 9K
which one would you choose?

I did find 2 more cars . A ,2003 VDP Supercharged with 117 K but it needs tires and new armrest asking price is 8 K

I gave up on the 1995-1996 XJ12 VDP got too many warnings from some of you.


Thanks

Terry

 

I would go for the 03' VDP/SC has has 117k miles, but it has a bulletproof gearbox and metal tensioners. I would just negiotate for the tyres and armrest, down to probably 7-7.5k and still at 8k its a steal.
But it is still way over the resale value and u might wanna hit him with that
http://www.kbb.com/jaguar/xj-series/...condition=good

 

Being an 02 does not automatically mean it has metal tensioners, depends on the build date.

 

How would I know about it? Is there is cut off date?
and you don't like the 1999?

 

the 99' has low miles, so you would have to replace the tensioners*, thermostat*, water pump*, and have nikasil engines (*if not already replaced)

Oh make sure when you ask for these cars ask for the Full Service History, if they do not have it, just walk away, not worth the hassle down the road.

(there should be a stamp on the door telling the date, models after 11/01 have the updated tensioners, I have a pic of an example of how a stamp should look like - this vehicle does not have the updated tensioners as it was manufactured in 06/01 before 11/01)

 

Well, no. It's the ENGINE that needs to be after the magic date. In a car of that date you could easily have one that's not got the revised tensioners. (Instead, read the date off the actual engine.)

 

Lots of conflicting info out there on the tensioners. I've seen data on August 01 production 4.0's and up as having the metal tensioners and yet I've seen 02's with the genII plastic ones. Guess the only way to be sure is pull the valve cover. Anyhoo lots of pros and cons on all the vehicles listed. With me it comes down to overall condition, length of ownership and history and area of the world driven. (I.e. Winter/salt etc)

 

The info on the tensioners is very conflicting...
now I'm confused.

 

So are there any cosmetic and mechanical differences between the 1999-2000-2001-2002-2003 VDP /SCVDP over the years ,aside from the rear bumper sensor in 2001 and the metal tensioners in 2002?

 

TBH I would ignore all talk about tensioners until you can get the cars properly inspected, or if the owners can provide you with receipts of them being done. Also I wouldn't worry about Nikasil, if it was going to fail because of that, it would have done so already.

Service history is a big factor, but so is the condition of the interior. If a car has worn bushes, seals, hoses etc they're all pretty easy to replace, and you can negotiate this into the price, but if it has worn out leather then you're stuck with it. Same with the exterior to an extent. If you love the colour of one, but not the other, it's not an easy thing to change!

I would expect the main difference between the two cars will be the engine. The '99 will have the AJ26, with the big black pot above the throttle body, and the '02 will have the updated AJ27. Both seem just as likely to have the common TPS failure, but I found that replacement AJ26 throttle bodies are a lot easier to find. However as you're in the USA, you can get either one rebuilt easily, and for the same price. Other common faults are the same across both cars too, eg the ABS module.

All things being equal, I would probably lean towards the '02 personally. It's slightly more modern, will have a couple of extra features, and has likely been maintained better than an older car with less than half the mileage, which has likely just sat around for prolonged periods of time.

 

I have a slightly different view on the selection process, and frankly don't see how to select one without seeing at least a whole bunch of pictures.

First, I never let a lowest offer be the decisive factor.
If you look for ownership of these cars for a long time to come, then 'forget' about the price you pay.
The state of the car and its history is wayyy more important; any repair or replacement resulting from a lack of it dissolves any price advantage you might had immediately.

From 3 years ownership, and reading on this forum daily, I think one of the things often forgotten is the historic location of the car, and the way of storage.
It seems these cars are vulnerable for snow/salt (obvious), but also sunshine.

Being always outside (as opposed to garage stored) is getting its consequences for all plastics (you have no idea how many parts are made of, or depending on plastic items), the woodwork inside (imo the most important thing on these cars - and any pale or discolored woodwork is the result of the sun), the leather, and the paint (especially the clear coat).

The asking price and mileage is only a starting point.
Then do the math on the issues of the older cars, choose the best one, and go from there.

Of course all of the above is of no sense if you just want to make a quick hit or flip.

 

It's sad that my marginally adequate memory doesn't remember important things in my life on a day to day basis but, it does remember when Jaguar started placing aluminum secondary tensioners in XJ8/R... Look at the last letter followed by 5 numbers of the vin. F41862 and beyond and you'll be safe. There... Confusion gone.
Oh...and there is nothing wrong with nikasil lined engines anymore. 239K miles on the original engine in my 98' XJR.

 

Exactly: if the Nikasil was to fail, it would have shown up long before now. Issue was the level of sulphur in the gasoline--it was more common in the ROW than the US where the regulations were more stringent long before '98. So, if the car is still running fine now, it will continue (absent age and other wear issues) to do so, even with the Nikasil liners.

All of the other issues: tensioners, etc. are simple enough to deal with...all it takes is $ and time, which should be factored into the offering price.

For instance, I just picked up a '98 XJR, 137K on the clock, from the original owner. Interior in decent condition (center armrest needs replacing...50. @ the upholstery shop to recover in same material), headliner perfect, driver seat needs the leatherique dye treatment, but rest of the interior is almost pristine, clean wheels, new rubber, extensive service records...and inspection of the upper end. It will need tensioners done, but the original ones are in and not cracked. Roof and boot lids need repaint; the car spent its life on the left coast, so, it's rust-free (had it up on a lift, and it's clean underneath, etc). runs like a scalded cat, and handles just fine.

So, for a couple grand in repairs on top of the purchase price...I'm probably going to try to flip her with an asking price of $6K usd with tensioners done...5K if the next owner does it.

Reasonable?

 

Terry007,


Though you may get proper paperwork, or a happy VIN number, I suggest you find an experienced independent Jag mechanic to give your chosen sled a drivetrain once-over. One who was "wrenches-on" when these were new, if possible. Your LA location should make that easy.


Even if you're able to perform your own Jag repairs, if this particular model is new to you, the few hundred bucks a trained critical inspection will cost may be the cheapest insurance you ever spent.


A good mechanic can give you a practical automotive triage; what needs work now, what needs done soon/sometime, and what would be nice to do if you plan on keeping long term.

 

The '03 sounds like the best as it costs 1k less than the '02.

For better feedback, post links to these vehicles.