2001 XJ Looking at it tonight
 

Postewd on the wrong forum, cause I don;t know my JAG nomenclature yet...

So, I'll be likely looking at/testing out a "2001 Jaguar XJ-Series Vanden Plas"
tonight.
82,000 miles
My question to you smart folk is just, for a guy who tends to do a decent amount of DIY maintenance on his cars in the past, does this Jag lend itself to a weekend warrior mechanic type?
I've not owned one before, so not sure if there are specific things about this that would force me to do most things at a specialist...
Also, in looking online at this year, should I to ask if/be concerned about the following?
"timing chain, water pump and Nikasil (bore coating issue)"


Any thoughts, advice going into a test drive are most welcome!
BTW, they're asking around $3300 for this beastie.

Cheers and many thanks in advance,
Rich

To answer your question in a simple way, yes... Like any vehicle they can be worked on fairly easily but there is a catch that brings us into the more complicated portion....


There are several known issues with these vehicles in order:
Secondary timing chain tensioners
Water pump
Transmission A-Cluth Drum
Thermostat housing

The only thing that would likely be beyond the DIY-er would be the transmission..
Timing chain tensioners can be corrected in the DIY method, but these vehicles, when it comes to repairs, no matter how simple it may be, requires more patience than "skill" so to speak... What I mean by this, is take you time with thing.... If there is ANYTHING you so much as have a doubt on, just ask on here, be patient and someone will help you out. With this cars-- and all cars in general, take your time on repairs. These cars are a lot like owning a horse....they're not a lot of fun to own unless you like taking care of it.


I will say this, as will many other people
SERVICE RECORDS
SERVICE RECORDS
SERVICE RECORDS

If you do not have a receipt confirming that these issues have been addressed, simply assume you have to do the repair. pull the cam cover and check the tensioners, if they're the original, they will be orange/red in color.
Despite how frustrating some things on these cars can be, when the job is done, they really are a lot of fun to work on. But they really do test your patience. If you don't have patience, and a willingness to ask about anything you're unsure of, these are not the car for you.

You should take a look at the sticky titled How To. It has a detailed steps for examining an xj8 for purchase. In answer to your question if you are reasonably mechanically inclined maintenance shouldn't be a problem.
The great group of folks on the forum can help you solve any problem with a little patience and information.
If you don't already have one buy yourself a OBD Code reader. You can't get anywhere with the Jag without one.

ok, great replies, and thanks.
I modified the original, just as Bcrary posted, but he seems to have hit upon those items..

Thanks much,
R

IIRC The Nikasil issue was resolved by 2001?

However the only way to confirm weather or not it has the Nikasil bore liners would be to pull the build date off the block itself (found by the thermostat housing).... Now, there is nothing wrong with the Nikasil liners per-say being in th e U.S. there were fewer problems with sulfur in fuel, BUT.... DO NOT EVER LET IT OVER HEAT! Any overheating will destroy the liners.

If the engine has never been overheated, they're pretty solid engines.

Frankly, regardless of if the water pump has been replaced or not, it may not be a bad idea to consider replacing it whilst doing the tensioners anyway...
If you open the hood, and see that the thermostat housing is aluminum, thats a good sign, that means someone at least had that done (and possibly the water pump and tensioners) however, the tensioners are still something to CHECK FOR YOURSELF. It's literally as simple as pulling off the cam cover to check on them.

might be going to drive this tonight..
probably won;t be popping off parts to check things, as it's at a dealer, but
any last thoughts of specific year/model things to look for/listen to are most welcomed..
:)
thanks much,
Rich in Maine

There are some who say the Nikasil engines are longer lasting than the steel lined ones, and that if there has been no problem up to now, you are most likely safe. My car has a Nikasil engine and it's fine. I believe there were only a few places where the sulfur in the gas was a problem.
About the other things, yeah I would replace the thermostat and plastic thermo tower and water pump and tensioners unless you know they've been done. Oh, and don't over torque things like the coil covers and cam covers. Lots of cracked plastic can result.

These cars are quite easy to work on. You should be able to change the tensioners, water pump, tstat housing, and a lot of while you're there parts (spark plugs, cam cover gaskets, etc) in an afternoon.

In one day I did the secondary tensioners, valve cover gaskets, water pump, tstat (XJRs have the metal housing already), spark plugs, and serpentine and SC belts. Nice easy work.

Parts are really quite reasonable too! It was $300-350 for all the stuff I listed for excellent quality components.

Thanks much, glad to hear it!
Rich

I'd agree with JimmyL, anymore there is very little to worry about with the Nikasil liners, however in that time period fuel quality in the U.S. wan't the best....expect the car to burn a bit of oil, nothing some Engine Restore can't fix... I run Engine Restore 8 cylinder formula and 10w40 Mobil1 and I don't have much of an issue during oil anymore.

good tip, thanks!
This would be my first Jag ever, if I choose to go this route..
I'm really looking fed to sitting in the beastie & just soaking up the fit & feel of it...
R

Since it is a dealer, I would ask them to connect a code reader and show you that the car has P-1111, not P-1000. P1000 means the codes have been recently reset and is too often done by folks to hide an impending "Check engine Light". P-1111 means that the car has completed the "Readiness Tests" after a reset.

I learned this the hard way!

ahh interesting

thanks
R

Keep us posted!

yessir!
In fact, my plan now is to be test driving it tomorrow morning!
I plan to be onsite at the dealer @ 8:00 EST ish checking it out..

we'll see if I end up driving a 01' Jag to work!

Rich

man, I find myself waffling this morning as I plan to head out to look at the car..
I've not had a "nice" car since my 1989 Ford Probe GT...
I don't have a garage, and live in Maine, which means this car would be buried in snow like my other cars have been.
I'm struggling with whether or not a car like this deserves to be/holds up well being shoveled out of snow several months out of the year...
Am I a flake?
;/

89 FORD probe was a nice. OMG

ok ok I hesitated to say that... hey, it was almost new & had a turbo...and I was much younger
;p

ok, so I went to look at the Jag just now.
1) It's every bit as well kept as I suspected(2001 w/82K miles)
2) The fellow went & hooked the battery up(which was disconnected) because he said "it looses it's charge after 2-3 weeks of sitting..and that's something with these Jags.."

Is he blowing smoke?
I haven't heard that about Jag's in my surfing..
;/
I ran out of time, and so didn't get to run it.
Rich

They do have a slight drain. If the battery is new it would take longer, but sitting in a car lot and doesn't get driven, it makes sense. It's an indication that it may need a battery in the future.

He is right for SOME Jags. It also means the Readiness test I spoke of earlier will be reset, so you do not know if any codes are pending. See if you can use that to get him to let you have it overnight and then you put 50 miles or so on it to be sure you don't get an engine light.

As to the "too good" concern, compare the cost vs your other options. Itis a 13 + year old car, after all.

I drove a bunch of Ford performance cars until I drove my first Jaguar and once you do, there is no going back. And, as you say, you are not as young as you once were, so you probably should buy a grownup car! As opposed to a Mercedes, which is for old guys.