I Got my hands on a 2002 Jaguar XJR100 with 90k miles. It has been sitting for almost 3 years now. the car is in great condition inside, however the exterior could use some love. the car does not start, it does not crank. According to the previous owner the car needed fuel pumps and filter and he never did it so the car has sat since. i understand that this is a common issue with this car. I am going to start by replacing the fuel pumps and filter and doing oil change but my question is why the car wont crank, i believe even with a faulty fuel pump the car would still crank. what other things would you guys do to this car knowing the millage and time it has sat for. also i got this car for such a good deal i couldnt pass on it so please dont ask why I would buy a non running car.

 

Before I would start throwing parts at the problem I would look a little deeper and sort out what the issues are.
!. Have you read for pending and existing codes? I would do a scan first thing.
2. Is there fuel pressure at the schraeder valve? I would check fuel pump fuses, relays and for voltage at the pump harness.
3. Do you have spark at the coils/plugs?
4. Do you have compression?
Jumping into repairs by parts replacing will eat a large hole in your wallet. Let's work thru finding the actual cause of the non-start.

 

Reading your description above, it says that the car does not crank, i.e. the engine does not turn over when you try to start it?

If that is the actual case, I would start the diagnosis with the starter circuit, it could be a relay, the key transponder reader antenna around the ignition lock cylinder or it could be wiring or the starter itself.

After you get the engine to turn over, I would check fuel pressure and then spark, etc.

 

If it sat for 3 years the first thing you might get is a new battery. A bad battery can give you a lot of misinformation. It should be at least 12.6v.
The car doesn't crank. Does the starter engage but won't turn the engine over? If this is the case take a socket, I believe it is 24mm, put it on the crankshaft damper and try to turn the engine in the clockwise direction. One of the cars I bought wouldn't crank because the tensioner broke that caused a valve to break keeping the engine from turning over.
The engine should crank with a bad fuel pump. It should crank even if your key wasn't programmed to the car, it just won't start. I think you have other problems besides the fuel pump.
As suggested by avern1 diagnose the problem before you start throwing parts at it. Post a list of codes if any appear. And before you start tearing things appear ask us questions and we will try to help. We will get as much satisfaction getting your car back on the road as you will

 

1. Is a new battery or a battery with 12.5V sitting. The most important item....don't leave the ignition on when it's fitted...
2. Turn the engine on the crank pulley nut clockwise to check if it's seized. Trans in neutral - remove plastic nut on trans selector, and use a phillips to put down the lock to select neutral...
3. Check and clean the plugs.
4. Oil and filter changed.
5. Fuel emptied and fresh fuel added.

Once these things are done with the least amount of messing around and trying to make a dead car start, it should at least attempt to turn over. The messing about I refer to is multiple attempts to start on a weak battery with fuel that's gone off this CAN put the car in anti theft mode, then it needs specialist software (dealer level) to disengage this feature.

 

Assuming you know how to jump the battery and the engine will turn with a wrench on the crank shaft, I would bet your key is bad . . . a tow to a dealer or independent to reprogram the key. Do you have a second key?

 

4 door sedan or 2 door sport ? Below information is for 4 door sedan :

Does the starter relay click ? fuse # 3 / 25 amp Engine Management fuse box and fuse # 5 / 10 amp Engine Compartment fuse box . Swap the relay with the headlight or heater pump relay if same part number .

You can listen for #1 fuel pump that will run for 3-5 seconds as you rotate the key to the on ( not start ) position . It will turn back off by design and comes back on when the ECU sees engine rotation .

Swap #1 and #2 fuel pump relays and fuses and check you have a good pump motor ground along the side of the battery
. Listen for the # 1 pump

Both fuel pump relays control fuse is # 16 / 10 amp Left Heelboard fuse box at the rear seat by your foot

Fuel filter changed ? Above left rear suspension .

Apply power directly to the fuel pumps , you have 2 with the S/C engine . The #2 is not commanded on until the engine reaches 4000 RPM but can be hotwired to get your fuel pressure at the start if the #1 in inop . Since the # 1 pump motor is in question use # 2 by putting B + power on the Orange wire socket of the relay holder . High current arcing hazard so use a blade connector for the socket and the last thing you contact is the B + so it arcs there .

Yes on pulling the engine through by removing the plugs and you are probably going to need same penetrating oil on the piston rings overnight to free them up and expand for enough compression for a light off . Rotate the engine to force the oil into the area if interest . It's going to smoke on light off but it will be the smell of victory .

After you get rotation and fuel pressure you may have issues with the old fuel

The ECU engine regulation will start acting up below 11.5 volts so after your drained the battery trying to get it started keep that in mind

Any questions . Just ask

Hurricane Flood Damage ? Heavy rain may have entered the fill cap cavity and now in tank .

 

Thank you all for your great recommendations, To clarify guys, i have not picked the car up just yet. Spoke with the previous owner a little more today and verified some things. The car DOES crank. it just does not start. the story behind it is it sat for about 2-3 months and was working perfectly when it was parked. after that long wait he tried to start it again and it would not start, it would just crank. He says there is no fuel pressure in the lines. i am going to pick the car up tomorrow morning and i will do whatever diagnostics i can do to figure out the problem. knowing the situation does that help narrow down what the possibilities may be? when i pick it up tomorrow i will start with a new battery and a fresh oil change of course.

 

Make the jumper and clip or tuck under battery post or terminal post of the trunk fuse box . And say thanks as you drive away .
Hold off on the oil as there are different opinions on viscosity ( VVT operation ) but do change the plugs and fuel filter and I recommend Rislon in the oil 100 miles before oil change

See if RPM shows up on the Tach . If it doesn't show it would be the Crankshaft position sensor which also control both #1 and # 2 fuel pump normal circuit .

You can still have a good # 1 fuel pump and the problem bring in its control .

The engine will not have peak power without 2 fuel pumps . Roll into a auto parts store and have them reset any codes and see if they reappear as you continue the drive home .

https://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...sor/322873_0_0

 

Start with the battery to make sure it has 12.5+v. Do not try to jump start the car. Disconnect the negative cable and charge the battery.

Turn the key to the on position. Listen for the fuel pump. Check the Schrader valve. Fuel should squirt out if the pump is working. If not working check the fuses and relays as mentioned earlier. Let us know the results before trying to change the fuel pump. I would change the filter after it has sit for so long.

If by chance the pump is working remove the spark plugs and add oil into each cylinder. Who knows it could be as simple as bore wash if you are lucky.

If by the long shot chance it is bore wash go and buy some lotto tickets.

 

Take your time in installing the new battery . If put in backwards it's a bad thing although cheaply recoverable . Positive post goes in the positive direction of travel . Powerball is 337 million tomorrow .

 

I am doubting fuel pumps at this moment. An XJR has 2 and will default to the other when one fails and will start. Yes both can fail simultaneously, but it is doubtful, it could be a fuse(s). I suspect more the CPS (crank position sensor) may be bad or have a bad wire. A CPS is required for the ECU to read and initiate commands.

To follow with BobRoy & Lady P's suggestion on the battery, be absolutely sure your cables are corrosion free. Any corrosion will prevent proper voltage disbursement and you may be chasing ghosts that you don't have to.

 

Alright sooooo, car is in the driveway, needs a new front grill and the hood paint has faded so i will get that repainted. the rest of the car will need paint correction to bring that shine back. the BBS wheels are FLAWLESS and just need some really good cleaning. brakes all need pads and rotors, not sure were to go for those since im finding a lot of XJR brake parts and I don think those have the same BBK as the 100 does so maybe someone here can guide me on that! the interior is in very nice condition other then the headliner. probably going to find a XJ8 part out and get an entire headliner from it. have not tried to crank the motor yet. charged up the battery and chcked the engine oil level and it was short 3 quarts so i added oil to it for now and once i get it started ill flush it after that. tomorrow i will see if there any fuel pressure at the fuel rail and check fuses, if no fuel then i guess i know my problem. If its getting fuel then ill start running down the list of other things. Also what the best way to post pictures on here??? i wanna show you guys this beast!!

 

Lots or threads on DIY headliner replacement as you don't need to by a new or used one . To post pics there is a picture icon above the window you type in , just pick a source . Squirt some penetrating oil into the cylinders and try to turn it through . There is a 48 pin connector in the trunk just below the fwd lid opening edge that can migrate off and gives a no start , tywrap secure . No fuse in the security module as it may have been removed during storage will also give no start . There is a crash / kill switch also to look at

 

Got the car on the battery and turned the key and the car cranked but did not start, i tried to hear for the sound of the fuel pump but nothing came. I checked for fuel pressure at the fuel rail and found no fuel pressure at all. went to the back and removed the carpet and pulled the white plug from the top of the hat of the fuel tank and found that i have power in the red wire but not the blue wire. I checked fuses and #7 wont light. i believe fuse 7 is for the pump??? im guessing the fuel pumps are not turning on because i have no power in the blue cord thats in the white connector on the top hat.

 

Top hat connector ( Brown / Green #1 pump ) ( Orange # 2 ) 12 v power , both Blacks are grounds .

color codes may not match the print but look for power on the 2 other wires other then the black ones .

Fuse #7 is for the # 1 pump .

Did you hotwire the # 2 pump ?

After you get fuel pressure I would recommend oiling the cylinders in order to get ring seal for enough compression to light off .

 

Spent around 6 hours getting these damn pumps out of the car and finally tested them, both pumps are completely shot, with no power at all. So i am going to order 2 new pumps, the line for one of the pumps still has no power coming from it. its the No7 fuse. the fuse its self isnt burned out, there is just no power coming to the fuse. also the gas gauge doesnt work, I pulled the little floater out and moved the arm to the up position for FULL tank and it still displayed Empty when the ignition was on. Anyone have thoughts about this?

lady penelope, Thanks for that pointer I will oil the cylinders for sure!

 

With both pumps failed they take out both relays as they arc and pit , the fuse is after the relay in this application . Someone mentioned marvel mystery oil to loosen up the rings . This is for ring seal not wall friction . There is a ground in the fuel level circuit close to the sender but them you might as well replace it now then later . Soon you'll be up and twerking like this as this is a inline 6 cylinder no supercharger ( which puts out 243 hp stock ) but a custom exhaust . Your's puts out 370 hp stock

 

 

Separate relay for each as the pump arcs on their brushes pits the surface of the individual relay's power contact surface . This lowers the amount of current to the new pumps for proper operation . They will show voltage on both sides of the relay but low current to drive them .

Watch for the tachometer to respond during engine cranking , and keep in mind the below 11.5 battery voltage issue with the ECU

Relay Jaguar # LJA6703AA superseeded by ↳ C2P11192 , can be found at local parts store along with the fuel filter

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u.../relays/relays