From a thread a long time ago:

"The XJR is not a pinball machine"

......and should not be expected to act as one with colored flashy lights, sounds and such.

I did install electric exhaust cut outs just behind the headers on mine to get more growl.

That said, I am adding a boost gauge to my A pillar anyway, lol.

No neon, though, ever.
Vector

 

Sure you can, they just have to roll up a armoured car loaded with $100 bills
and you do a forklift upgrade.

 

Being a triple gauge pod, the boost gauge is really a
"nice to have". The original impetus was a voltmeter
and oil pressure gauge.

Lack of oil pressure or voltage is extremely inconvenient
in our cars when caught offguard.

Sourcing a pressure switch with a rating in the 15 psi
range was a real shopping exercise. This is for the
really loud piezo audio alarm. There is also one for
attachment to the output of the digital thermometer.

 

check this out:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...ay-nay-164144/

 

Thanks Plums, now that I've seen it, I CAN'T UN-SEE IT!🙈

 

Oh, no, all the way "NOOOOOOOOOOOO."

I will have nightmares over this for a while.
Vector

 

I can agree on no neons as well, what a shame that is! For the record my gauge is not neon It is whatever color anyone else has x7 choices at the push of a button.

Waterdragon I have not ported or cleaned the coolers yet, highly recommend it? I was going to get there eventually and add the Bosch 010 pump to help with overall cooling as well.

Heat soak clearly plays a part in back to back to back 1/4mi passes from my experiences in my car. Last night ran 13.6s cool, 13.7s warm, and 13.8-9s hot after 5 passes then headed home. With new gear ratio it runs a 13.7 now starting in 2nd gear with no sport mode, was only able to pull around 13.9s without sport engaged before the diff change.

I will up date with accurate boost levels soon, haven't taken the time to closely observe, probably should have looked over at the gauge last night!

BOOST UPDATE - just took her out and watched the gauge, plateaus at 15psi just before redline.

 

The Merc forums covering the big twin turbocharged engines
report that a bigger pump handles the situation by circulating
enough coolant that the heat exchanger stays cool at all
times. No increase in temperature in extended use.

The bigger Bosch pump is known to fit. But there is an
even bigger pump in the Merc catalog that is judged
best ... at something north of $700.

 

Yikes $700, if I could find a low mile used unit I would run it. I will probably stick with the Bosch 010 due to ease of install and price. I may look into what the ZL1 Camaro runs OEM or better yet Lingenfelter sells a pump upgrade in the $250 range for the CTS-V and ZL1

 

The gentleman rebuilding my cars original s/c has convinced me to stick with the larger lower pulley and smaller upper one. I'm interested in using the 010 Bosch pump, it seems like a pretty straight forward swap, any pitfalls or advice before I purchase one?

 

With the 010 pump many make their own wire pin connection or soldier directly to the pump pins. You can also order a C63 AMG (or other models) pigtail connector from a Mercedes parts supplier and splice it with the oem pump wires

 

So, getting back to the original topic: What does your boost gauge read while on boost?

 

Hey Waterdragon its hard to pick out in the jumbo, made an addendum the other day to #27

"BOOST UPDATE - just took her out and watched the gauge, plateaus at 15psi just before redline"

It climbs to 12psi instantly then slowly raises to 15psi through the rev range

 

If you have a look through some of my older posts in the engine section. I, at 18-19 psi, had less heat soak than stock because I :

1: used water injection-make sure you use it BEFORE the blower for +1 extra psi
2: added a simple 10" pusher fan in front of the intercooler radiator
3: I found surprisingly efficient extra cooling by water misting the intercooler radiator only while on boost


My 18-19 psi was with a lower +4 pulley and a +1.5/1.8 upper. The extra boost was gained from reducing vacuum on the intake side and +1 psi when I moved the water injection from after the blower to before the blower. The eaton is not very efficient, but when you inject the water/alcohol before the blower, it makes the air denser and it is easier for the eaton to move it, it also helps it seal better and runs much cooler.

Here is a link that has a video of my 2000 XJR showing the boost gauge hit 18 psi with only a lower pulley.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ue-vdp-162181/


I was thinking if you have already ported your TB and elbow, (I also found benefit from having the blower ported), then your charge coolers might be your current bottleneck.

 

Where did you buy the housing to go on the A pillar?
Vector

 

I did this at least ten years ago so, all I remember is that it was from eBay, but I couldn't even remember what I paid for it, or maybe some $50 bucks, or so, but do try eBay.

But, unless you, too, are actually joining the gang... (which you don't seem to be, really), be careful announcing that you're putting a gauge on the A-pillar of your Jag, as you may soon be hearing how that is just not good XJR taste...

Cheers,

 

I am joining, no cork sniffer here, I even got the exact same boost gauge you have. I got a similar looking housing from Ebay, but it seems to be too big, wide, to fit properly. Did you cut yours to fit or is there one made for a car model that fits our Jags better?
Vector

 

that looks awesome man. i particularly like your interior. did you use a gloss black vinyl wrap ? is your leather oatmeal?

 

Thanks Vsol, I would imagine a gauge is right around the corner for you as well with the fresh install of the lower pulley

Spot on, interior is Oatmeal (AGD), the wood is dark burl wood and I wrapped my ugly/warn/beat up lower gear shift surround in a matte black to try and match the rest of the black pieces in the interior. I may wrap the rest of the trim pieces at some point since the cracked up "patina" look isn't what i'm going for

 

My 'U.S. 03 XJR has a 6% S/C pulley, and Mina "last" (OEM) mufflers delete and tips. Mina appearance/sound is unacceptable. Plan B is return to OE rear and remove front "common" muffler, and replace with Flowmaster 2.25 X-pipe (#10790). If I still need some V-8 muscle 'growl', considering remove/replace "before axle" mufflers. Believe you have tried this, with Magnaflows 10415 and 12225 pairs. Which did you settle on and why? Sound, or "offset" vs "straight" mufflers??

Thankx in advance for your experience and advice.

EHT, Aiken, SC