Hello.
Today the car is going to be towed to dealer after over a year of sitting in front of my home, it won't start and, today I will find out why.
I bought a new battery and, diagnostic will be $139.00. I just wanted to tell you all ..what is going on here.
I hope it will start and, if not not sure what to do except sell for junk.

 

Hopefully your XJR can be revitalized without too much work and/or expense.

Keep us updated with how things go.

 

I had been wondering what had happened with you Jag...it's been awhile.
For anyone who is unfamiliar with elic9's scenario, here's a link to her previous thread... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-start-179592/
I reread the thread and the advice given was sound ...you had just had the trans done, so don't give up on her. I am in accordance with what the other members had suggested and your key seems to be the culprit. As CK said, please keep us apprised of what happens or if you need more help before continuing with the work to where your taking her.

 

Don't give up. These are good cars.

You may need someone more competent than a typical mechanic.

 

This is what the diagnostic says:
100-00 complete vehicle
+antilock braking system {03DTC}
+restraints control module {02DTC)
+climate control module {02DTC)
-engine control module {02 DTC} C1165 No Information available
P 1000
P1260
+Instrument pack {ERR OXC}
-Other
-Engine control module {01DTC}
C1165
-Transmission control module {01DTC}
P1798
codes I assume and, they said they need to drop the gas part and drain and vacuume old gas in it..want me to pay close to $700.00 dollars, can you all explain to me .......is this going to make the car run again? Or what do codes really mean in your experience with these cars? thank you...

 

Hi There Elic9,
As the mechanics you're dealing with want to clean out the old (stale) gas from the fuel system they have probably not got the engine running yet. In which case the DTCs they have reported to you will be those that have been stored by the various controllers since the car was last started and driven and many of these could be a direct result of the battery dying before you laid the car up a year ago.

The list you have been given is, for the most part, a summary of the number of DTC codes stored in each of the control modules; three in the ABS, two in the RCM, etc. The others, where more detail is provided I think underpin the suggestion that loss of battery power is the probable cause, see below.

P1000 OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

P1260 Theft Detected, Vehicle Immobilized

P1798 CAN TCM/INST Circuit Malfunction

The first order of business must be to get the engine started. Your mechanics plan to remove the old fuel and clean out the fuel lines (and ideally replace the fuel filters) is a valid first step. They should also test the ignition system and ensure good sparks at all plugs and check and clean/replace the air filter. They should check to see that the engine can be rotated and the timing chains/belts are in good condition before trying to start the engine. Once they achieve this the next step would be to stop the engine and clear all the DTC's. Once this has been done they can then re-start the engine and, assuming the brakes work satisfactorily, take the car for a test run after which they can re-scan for fresh DTC's that may indicate more work to be done or better still that your Jag is ready for the road again.

If the $700 is to cover all of that then it seems reasonable to me.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Cubist

 

That is pretty much it: you have a dead battery. Now, if all those problem exist, you may also need the immobilizer in the key to be reprogrammed before it will start. If the garage you have doesn't have the ability to reprogram, you need to move it. Before you burn money. Do nothing if they can't start the car with a jump start.

And I agree with Cubist: $700 is not a lot of money for all that work IF THEY GET CAN IT TO START first!

 

I bought a brand new battery..

 

what would C1165 mean??

 

Make sure the battery is fully charged to 12.75 volts

As the voltage drops funny things happen

In putting your finger on the king relays circled in red as you rotate the key feel for them to click as you cycle the key several times

You can keep the key on and pull the relays and feel them click as it makes contact in reinstalling

Then feel the fuel pump # 1 relay to click on for 4 seconds then click off by design

Do you hear fuel pump running ?

There is a fuse # 16 / 10 amp LH heelboard fuse box that controls the fuel pump relay to close delivering the power to the pump from a larger fuse

The last relay to feel is the starter relay circled in green as you rotate fully to start position

It's on either side of the car opposite the steering column for LHD or RHD steering

Do you get engine rotation from starter but no light off engine run ?

 

C1165 is a failure of the right rear speed sensor circuit. It could be a buildup of dirt on the toothed ring on the axle, bad cable connection, internal cable break, or a faulty sensor. See the following link but expect the resistance of the sensor to be more like 1.1-1.4 ohms. This is for a XK8 but I think the XJ8 should be similar.

ABS Sheet XK8.pdf (application/pdf Object)

 

As Lady P states, a fully charged battery is a must, ....new or not.

Its an ABS (Anti-lock Brake System) sensor code for your Wheel Speed Sensor.

The P1000 is nothing to worry about at this time. Its simply as cubist has posted. Your computer cannot complete its diagnostic (all cars from 1996 on have this) because of the other 2 fault errors interfering with the test loop. Once those have been rectified, this should go away.

The 1798 is something I've not had to deal with, a CAN is by definition a Controlled Area Network. I just know it is a real time high speed system harness where the engine, braking and transmission control modules communicate. I default to Bob or someone else to better explain this.
Though here is a screen shot from the... JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource ... in this Tutorial on Pg 2.3.10... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...2002-20-02.pdf ...whereas the C1165 and the P1798 could be the cause of each other? Simply, a failed sensor (one code) can prevent the CAN from completing its monitoring (thus the 2nd code).

 

The approach of establishing power on the king relays controlled points of the car when resolved may show the faults go away as chasing nuisance items after establishing quality power ( voltage and current )

A common problem on the X308 is the fuse link nuts becoming loose just below the positive battery post

Another common problem is brand new junk batteries

Did you easily put the battery in backwards in the past . Done it myself .

Battery post shims at the auto parts store help with a stretched battery terminal clamp

Even though the king relays can get the correct command and click doesn't mean the relay is good and transfer quality power , . Swapping options or get a new one to swap around ( avail at local auto parts store )

First priority in my opinion is to get the car started for confidence and see what codes are left as you resolve and fix starting issue

On the ABS wheel speed sensor resistance values should read about the same as wire pairs , cleaning the sensor face plus connector helps many ( pic is for X308 )

 

Woooo Santa in a X308 ! LP's really pulling out all the stops !

 

Waa , I'm just working with what I got , and that's not alot

 

There has been a lot of technical information posted, so, as far as a repair starting point elic9, ...as RJ said, simply having the right rear wheel sensor cleaned up (and cable checked) and tested would be first. If that works, your one step ahead... If not, the sensor may need replacement? One thing at a time, please update us as to the dealer's progress and results....btw, was it a Jag dealer you took it to?

 

Yes took to the Jag. dealer in my hometown.

 

I am asking dealer what part is needed, it is only like 40.00 dollars and what does DTC mean?

Also, the place is charging over 600.00 dollars just for labor..

 

Diagnostic trouble codes. The dealers are typically much more expensive than independent shops, and they may not have mechanics familiar with our "old" cars.

 

Can you detail what the labor charges are for? I know part of it is for diagnostic itself.