Progress

 

And as I’m transferring the video footage to my computer and recharging the GoPro time for a quick break

 

Belmon,
I would go a little easy on the sealant this time when you put it back together. When I do my cam cover gaskets the only place I put anything is where the head joins the timing cover and then it is only a dab.

Good luck

 

It was like that because of the valve covers constantly leaked and I couldn’t find where it was leaking from so I thought if I rtv the whole thing that it would stop.
But it didn’t. So I think there’s a crack on both of them. So I got new ones.

 

Tomorrow the bottom end comes out. Cylinders 1 and 7 when the heads are off I put my palm over to see if there’s any suction I also tried with a old hard cover book and they have no suction I still see the cross hatching on all 8 with no scoring that my finger nail can catch on.

 

Had a bit of a heart attack when I thought I rounded a head bolt but it only broke my socket

 

Also I found leaking intake valves on the right head

 

Do the leaky valves match up with your low compression cylinders?

I don't know what kind socket you used to remove the heads but what I did was to use an 13mm impact socket and I ground the outside of it off a little so it would fit in the head bolt hole.

 

 

Only one valve matched up to the right side with low compression the left side I’m going to look at more closely tomorrow after work. It’s a good thing I took the engine out and apart some of the rod bearings were starting to spin now. I need to translate the bearing codes to get the colors and de grease the engine and find a place to hot tank the block/main bearing plate/sump/heads. And get a straight edge to check if the head/block it true.

 

I also need to put all of the video footage together for a time lapse video

 

And on the head bolts bob I found that my 13mm was fitting loosely and felt like it wanted to round out the bolt heads so I went to a 1/2” Crome deep socket and it fit a little tighter. That worked for the left head. But it broke on the right one then I got a 12 point 1/2” impact socket for the rest. Also bob what tool do you use to get the valves out. I went to some auto parts store and the ones they rent won’t work for these heads because the valve springs are in there own little pockets.

 

The one I have is similar to the one in the link. I won't vouch for the quality of this one but the one I have was around $90.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...3D%26veh%3Dsem

I use a multi compartment container and put everything from each valve in its own compartment and mark where it came from. I like to put everything back together the exact way it came out.
Be careful of the retainers. They are very small and can be easily lost. Have a clean area for disassembly and assembly. You will probably drop a few and they will be hard to find if it's a cluttered area.


Edit: If you are having a machine shop do your heads let them do the disassembly. On my heads I did it myself since mine only needed to be lapped in but if the seats or valves are bad enough that they need machine work I would let a machine shop do the work.

 

If the heads and block are true and not warped I just want them to hot tank the block and heads sump, main bearing plates. I’m going to buy a bunch small containers after work. I might just get a a large c-clamp with a large o2 sensor socket to do it.

 

I don't think that will work. Even with a spring compressor it is difficult to reinstall the retainers. You will have more access to get them in with the spring compressor.

I cleaned my heads with the purple degreaser and a pressure washer. The almost looked new when I was done.

First pic is my Harbor freight container then the before and after on cleaning the heads.

 

Ok. I ordered that spring compressor. And I’ll go to harbor freight today.
The problem is washing it. They tore down some self car washing places and are rebuilding them. I might just buy a big tub to dip the heads in degreaser. Not sure about the block yet. I’ll look around for a place.

 

Try the purple power degreaser with a garden hose. Sometimes it might get it clean enough. Once cleaned I use air to dry it then I will put it in a clean garbage bag or whatever to keep it clean until I'm ready to reassemble.

 

8 hours of footage over 3 days

 

ok so i think i got the right bearing colors but i would like someone else to double check my work to be sure

engine numbers sjgkf*baab 22222223*rrnrp

link to engine pdf http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...Code%20168.pdf
pages 54-59

rod bearing color
b/1 green
a/2 blue
a/3 blue
b/4 green


main bearings crank journal diameter

s/1 61.985mm
j/2 61.992mm
g/3 61.994mm
k/4 61.991mm
f/5 61.995mm


main bearing bore inside diameter
r/1 66.018mm
r/2 66.018mm
n/3 66.020mm
r/4 66.018mm
p/5 66.019mm



main bearing color
1 blue/green
2 blue/blue
3 blue/blue
4 blue/blue
5 blue/blue



cylinder bore
2 b1
2 b2
2 b3
2 b4
2 a4
2 a3
2 a2
3 a1

 

also for main bearing #1 blue/green witch one is the top and bottom?