EVAP Pipe Dilema- Chime in guys
 

So, since the exhaust and the rear axle are out of the car, I decided to replace the Fuel Filter.

As I was replacing it, I noticed that the EVAP pipe going to the charcoal canister is rusted through right at the shock mount suspension mount.

I figured it should be easy to replace but when i just checked the prices on it I went wow...!!!:icon_bricks::icon_bricks:

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...60117957_n.jpg

It's #4 on the picture.

NNC6050AC

So... a trip to your nearest junkyard (auto salvage shop), or cut and replace the damaged portion with rubber fuel tubing and screw type hose clamps.

How much is it -- does fuel ever flow through it?

I would not splice a metal pipe with a rubber hose unless I understood exactly what was going on.

It's a vapor recovery line.

Well when I priced it out it was over $300. I got some parts from a local auto store for $16 bucks and did the following fix:

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...14843076_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...67098981_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...70620149_n.jpg

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...44949422_n.jpg

They probably couldn't even get it anyways. I had a customer who needed the evap pipe that goes from left canister to the right canister as it also rusted thru, but it was no longer available. I was going to repair it by patching in new pipe like what you did but they declined the repair.

What you did will work perfect as only fuel vapors run thru it. Nice work.

Cool find on the fuel tubing. I didnt know dorman made them like that. I would just clamp in fuel hose. In fact, I replaced all the rotting rubber evap pieces on my Thunderbird tonight with 5/16" and 1/4" fuel hose basically for free.

I sure don't understand the concern here - virtually every high pressure fuel system made today consists of a mixture of steel and reinforced rubber (or reinforced polymer of some kind) fuel tubing... and I DID say rubber fuel tubing, not 'rubber hose' originally.

Quad -- They made the line in metal for a reason -- I'm not sure why .... if you know all about the system then you should have indicated why this was OK.

I don't think its very prudent to advise someone to make a change concerning fuel unless you explain it. And ..........I certainly see many situations where rubber is used in all manner of places.

I'm surprised at the amount of rust though.


Not something I do.

The EVAP system is full of FORD logos, so that explains the rust.


If you look at the first picture you will see a quick disconnect that connects the steel pipe to polymer plastic fuel line. I was just going to splice the plastic with the rubber but I wanted to keep it OEM as much as possible.

High pressure rubber fuel line hose can be used as long as proper precautions are taken. The most important are the right clamps to use with it. A lot of people use the worm drive clamps and these will cut the rubber and could potentially leak down the line.

Agreed, the V12 fuel injection rail and injectors are basically attached in the same way with the same press clamps - and that's high pressure fuel - so if it's good enough for under the bonnet, it's good enough on an evap line.

As a side note, why not treat the rust while you're in there with a rust killer then etch primer, stonechip/waxoil. The car will last longer. (Axle parts too Adam) :)

LOL, I painted the differential plate and cradle. Honestly I need this car on the road asap. Once I get my other cars running this one will get a makeover, including paint;)

The picture of that piece of pipe with the quick disconnect ends reminds me how lucky you guys in the States are. You have ready access to some fantastic resource often on your doorstep.

That kind of spare part just does not exist in the UK or if it does it is very, very well hidden. Our local car parts stores tend to struggle if you want much more than cheap wheel trims, steering wheel covers or air freshners.

I just replaced all the fuel/vapor pipes on my X300 project. I ended up having to cut the ends off the old pipes and braze them on to new copper/nickel pipe. I was lucky that the ends of the old pipes were not too corroded and I was able to clean them up and make do.

I would have been happy to pay twice that much for that part if I could have got one.

Autch. Next time post here for us US guys to see. I'm sure we can help you out or at least find you an outfit where you can get it shipped from US.

I have some friends in Europe and they are in shock how cheaply we can get car parts here, especially if you know where to look. I remember pricing some cross drilled rotors here for the Jag and they were 3X as much in Europe.

EDIT:

Here's a link for the same kit on e-bay.

I guess my suggestion is look for the parts you want at a US retail auto parts store's webpage like www.autozone.com, write down the part# and look for it on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Repair-...ht_1954wt_1185