Good morning,

I am getting ready to leave for work, again! I am up for a promotion so I am putting in a little extra it seems.

To clarify on the Lambda monitors. The UG gauge pegs at 1 volt. With all but the lightest load conditions both lambda gauges are pegged. They will drop to .8 or so at coast or idle. There is a way to select a 2 volt lambda gauge but I can't figure out how just yet.

I think I have smelled gas once or twice, but it was very brief.

The first time I hooked up the UG the OBD showed p1111 so the cars resistance now to resetting p1000 after the hard reset makes me nervous.

About 10 days ago I cleaned the MAF and throttle body electrical connections just trying to address the occasional engine noise. After that cleaning, for the first time since I have owned the car (7 months), it was very hard to start. I had to turn it for a pretty long time before it weakly started to run. It starts perfect since. I think it's possible I caused the OL problem then, if there is an OL problem.

I am listing random stuff while I am waiting for my coffee to kick in. I will check back occasionally during my work day today.

Thanks again all.

My Ultragauge didn't work correctly until I forced it to use protocol 9141. I wonder if the bluetooth version is the same.

In auto mode the gauge selects 9141-2 as a default for my car.

That's the problem. I don't know why, but allowing it to select did not work. It was necessary to go into the menu and select ' force protocol 9141'. Maybe your unit, being much newer operates differently, but you might want to try.

When I got home from work today I decided to link to the car using my iphone; I have been using a Samsung tablet because the screen is bigger. I did force the 9141 protocol as rj237 suggested. There were no differences in the readings, but it was worth a try.

The iphone app seems to offer more options than the android app so I was not only able to check system readiness, but also check exactly which systems have tested and which have not. NONE have tested. Since in the past the car showed readiness very quickly after a reset, I am convinced that the open loop indication is correct.

The iphone wide O2 gauges will display up to 2, so I was able to see that during vehicle operation they in fact go a bit above 1 and are not actually steady at 1 as it appeared on the android app gauge. The don't go much above one, but a little.

When I first plugged in the UG a few days ago the system was showing p1111, all systems ready. A few days before I received the UG I had removed and cleaned the MAF. That's the only repair I've done since I re-did all the timing gear about 5 weeks ago. The battery was disconnected for several days during the timing upgrade and the readiness was fine soon afterwards, so I don't think this problem stems from the timing work. Logical deduction still leaves the MAF as the primary suspect. I am an amateur self-taught mechanic however, so I am open to criticism regarding my theory.

Has anybody had or heard of problems with aftermarket, non Denso, MAF sensors?

Might check the MAF connector: maybe a bent or broken prong? Clean the connector with non-residue electronic cleaner and be sure all fittings are tight (even tho loose fitting would give positive LTFT readings).

I think you have dirty injectors. At the risk of irritating Ross, again, try a branded fuel system cleaner: seafoam, Gumout, Lucas, or BG 44, if you can find it.

Next step: replace the oxygen sensors or look for a broken wire to them.

GSo, Jim, you are NOT advocating the purchase of a new MAF?

There are 5 suspect components, 4 O2 sensors and the MAF. Any one alone I can afford to replace but I just can't seem to identify one as faulty, at least per the UG readings.

MAF reads smoothly between 1 and 5 lb/MN as rpm increase.

O2 sensors read between 0.2 and 1.0 randomly with a pretty close correlation between what one does and the other.

Ran Lucas through on the last tank...

The wide O2 sensors vary between 0.8 and 1.2, rarely below 1.0 though. They also behave very similar to one another.

To "sorta" rule out the Wide band lambdas, I would introduce propane into the intake airstream from an unlit torch (CAREFULLY, small flow!) and watch the lambda votages. If they respond, the sensors are likely good.
In my (limited) experience it is pretty difficult to test a MAF for anything but a complete failure. I had an experience with my Discovery II where two replacement MSFs both kept the fuel trim fouled up and replacement with the OEM Bosch part fixed it. So, again, in my limited experience, I would be hesitant to go cheap. Maybe others will offer their wisdom.

So you still have no codes or pending codes other than P 1000?

No Ross, still no codes other than p1000.

I SO wish I had a known good MAF to switch into there. The one on my wife's 2004 XJ8 looks identical but has completely different part numbers. I am scared to switch them for a test.

My gut is telling me to get a new Denso MAF, but my budget is tight for then next week or two and if I spend over $100 on a MAF and the problem is not remedied I will feel pretty foolish for following my gut.

I have a new spare ignition coil in my garage. I thought of switching that out systematically to see if it's a failing coil.

I will look into the propane test. I have been working a very heavy schedule for the past few weeks so my postings and tinkerings have been few and far between. I do have the next two days OFF though! Other than a dentist appointment I have no plans except to work on this issue.

Unsolicited philosophical advice- if you are worrying about this while you are working the heavy schedule you are creating stress in your life. It seems likely that you will be keeping the car for a while, so having an assumed good MAF in the toolbox is not a bad idea anyway since they are difficult to diagnose.

Or, take a break, drive down to Atlanta and try my MY 02 MAF- it should be the same. What part of NC are you in. Maybe someone nearby can help out.

Throwing parts at it is not a good idea. Datalog the o2sensor voltages. If you can monitor live data see how they behave when you go WOT. Do you have anyone local to let you borrow their MAF? Also, have you checked your exhaust for leaks?

I would think a bad O2 sensor would throw a code. A MAF, not so much. I'm not positive on this, maybe someone else can add. I have a known pretty good MAF and a spare if you get up to northern VA. BTW, I have an UltraGauge (an older model maybe), and I didn't think it would read the wide range O2 sensors.

Good counsel Ross. My wife saw that I still had a tense look an hour after I got home from work and said "honey, don't worry about the car, you'll fix it...you always do". Nothing like a good wife. By the way Ross, I lived in Sandy Springs for a couple of years. That was a LONG time ago though, mid 90s.

Adam699, I generally agree about the not "throwing parts" philosophy. Sometimes though, if I know I'm keeping the car for a long time, I use an unknown problem to install a lot of "known good" components on the car. If I can afford it, it's a nice warm fuzzy feeling. haha Currently though, affording it is a little more difficult. We bought both of these Jags in April and paid cash. We have sworn off car payments. We left a few thousand dollars in the budget for upgrades, repairs and preventative maintenance. We have spent about $4,000.00 on the two Jags since purchase. I did all the labor myself except for repainting a poorly matched fender and installing two new headliners. Adding the purchase price to the repairs we still got a LOT of car for our money, but at least for a month or so the budget is pretty close to tapped out. The exhaust leak idea is a good call though. It would explain the noise at certain RPM and, if I'm correct, could explain why the O2 sensors think there's not enough air and are subtracting fuel. That would be an upstream leak, of course. There is a friendly exhaust shop nearby that I've had good experience with. I just called and he said bring the car by and he'll do a leak test for free. I'm headed over there now.

Jim, the new Ultra-Gauge Blue has a set of gauges for the wide O2 sensors. On the Android app the gauge goes from 0 to 1.0 volts. On the Apple app it goes from 0 to 2.0. I hope they are accurate. I agree with you and Ross about the MAF though. It's so hard to diagnose and often throws no codes...I still just want to go ahead and buy one.

He did a full smoke test on the car. No leaks at all, system is tight. Oh well.

Reality check?
 

As I edited the last post to reflect, the exhaust system checked out leak-free. The guy at the exhaust shop recommended a friend with a foreign car garage down the road. He hooked up his scan tool and said my fuel trims looked within range and the system was operating in closed loop. He also said that all but two of my readiness parameters had reset; CC and C (Comprehensive component monitor and catalyst monitor).

He said he thought the catalyst should have reset by now, but to drive it some more to give it time to test. He also said the MAF was reading a "little" high, whatever that means. He said it was no where near requiring a new one though.

Now the UG Blue is a beta item, where the software is still being tested and developed. It came with free lifetime updates which are easy to perform with my tablet. I can update the adapter as well as the application software. I am not defending UG, because this has been a somewhat stressful few days due to what appears to be inaccurate readings from my new gauge. I'm just putting it into perspective that hopefully there will be updates in the near future that will make those gauges accurate. Other than the closed loop indicator and fuel trims, the UG seemed to line up fairly well with what the scantool found.

Neither of the two places I went to would allow me to pay them anything, so my budget is still intact. haha I even pressed but they both insisted I didn't owe them anything. They are probably banking on large future Jaguar repair jobs.

As far as the noises from the engine, I came up with a crazy theory on the way home. Don't laugh at me for speculating this. When I did the timing job I had to use the dremel at one point to remove a snapped bolt. I was concerned about metal shavings being in the oil so I drained and refilled with new oil before I ever started it back up. I didn't change the filter because it was only about 3,000 miles old. Is it possible that residual contamination would have clogged the filter and that my oil pressures is compromised? I know the Mann filter has a bypass valve, but if it failed or if the bypass didn't allow sufficient flow, could that cause reduced lubrication and possibly valve noise?

I have a new Mann filter on my garage shelf. I think I'll just put it on, top-off whatever oil I lose and eliminate that "theory". Unless you guys think that's a waste of a perfectly good oil filter.

Welcome to the mind of Jeff! lol

Thanks for keeping us updated. It's a shame, all that sweat and tears due to bad software.

Keep the 325 IC working.

I agree Jim,

There are still small driveability (sp?) issues and I still think I smell a little gas once in a while, but I think I'll wait until the car tells me more specifically what it wants.

The mechanic who ran the scan tool said in response to the unready catalyst "It could be your catalytic converter going out, but I would keep driving it to see if it shows ready before I jump to any conclusions".

I guess I'll listen to him.

Seems like you found a reliable shop at least.

I had a car where the 02 sensors seemed to report normal readings and had the same problem setting monitors and was not throwing any codes. Than I realized that at WOT one of the sensors behaved differently. Still gave readings within it's range, just not the right readings. If the readings are in range the ECU usually won't throw a code.

For every car I've owned in the last several years I've had a back-up MAF on the shelf. In fact I still have a Volvo MAF even though I sold the car. I have a second MAF for my BMW, too. I think I will order one for my X308, but I want the Denso 197408-0010 unit.

I only found it in two places. One is from Hong Kong for $70 plus about $4 shipping, but it takes at least 27 days for delivery. I would prefer to buy it more locally even if it's a bit more expensive. Partsgeek lists the item for $121 but doesn't have it in stock. Does anyone have a recommendation for where to order a new OEM MAF?
Thanks

Check rockauto.com, they usually have decent deals. I personally would go with a junk yeard MAF for a spare. Check out car-part.com