getting fuel tank out??
#21
Z, you don't have to remove the tank from the trunk (I found it easier to work on the pumps with it out though) but you do need to disconnect the lines, unless you follow one of the metal cutting approaches and go thru the metal under the rear parcel shelf. If you cut the metal everything can stay in place and you just rotate the fitting at the top of the tank (after removing the fuel & electrical connections) for access to the pump(s). Either way you attack this you'll spend some time getting things out of the way so it's your choice...
#22
#23
You do need the line disconnect tools. If you go with Lisle, they have the standard ones and a set with a little arm sticking off each. Don't get the set with the arms, they won't fit up there where the lines are. Also, to increase access you may want to drop the driveshaft at the rear end, which also requires removing the center support. Make sure you mark everything really well so the shaft, rubber buffer, and rear-end flange all go back EXACTLY where they were or it will be out of balance. My driveshaft had a band clamp around it near the back end. Don't know why, but I made sure that stayed right where it was too.
Once the shaft is out of the way, you have a "little" more space to access the lines. I still used a long screwdriver to push up on the line tool while pulling on the lines with my other hand. Would need Barbie hands to get them both up there at once....
Don't forget to replace the fuel filter while you're up there....
Once the shaft is out of the way, you have a "little" more space to access the lines. I still used a long screwdriver to push up on the line tool while pulling on the lines with my other hand. Would need Barbie hands to get them both up there at once....
Don't forget to replace the fuel filter while you're up there....
#24
Steve - my mechanic does not know but I am planning to use his girlfriend's hands to disconnect lines Can you imagine Barbie style hands to disconnect lines without dropping driveshaft?
Anyway I think there is always wise to redo wheel alignment if you drop driveshaft or touch any other parts related to wheel alignment.
Do you mean these or others? https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...nnect-tool-set
Anyway I think there is always wise to redo wheel alignment if you drop driveshaft or touch any other parts related to wheel alignment.
Do you mean these or others? https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...nnect-tool-set
#25
#26
Do you mean these or others? https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...nnect-tool-set
Good luck with Barbie!😁
#27
From about 10 minutes on he does the job by tilting the tank without removing it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKbrNzAsuVk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKbrNzAsuVk
#28
If you elect to pull the tank back with the lines still attached, please be aware that there is a STRONG likelihood that one or BOTH steel fuel lines will become crimped/kinked and that they are NLA. (NO LONGER AVAILABLE!!!)
Plenty of sob stories and lessons learned from people posting on the internet.
Even parts from the salvage yards are most likely damaged because the workers in the yard don't remove the lines properly and the used ones will probably be BENT!!!!!!!!!“There are three kinds of men.
― Will Rogers
Plenty of sob stories and lessons learned from people posting on the internet.
Even parts from the salvage yards are most likely damaged because the workers in the yard don't remove the lines properly and the used ones will probably be BENT!!!!!!!!!
“There are three kinds of men.
The ones that learn by readin’.
The few who learn by observation.
The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.”
― Will Rogers
#29
I didn't drop the drive shaft but did find I needed to remove the parking brake cable bracket. That was enough room for my barbie arms (just enough). I agree with the filter change at this time it allows you to swap that part out without spilling any more gas than you'll already be spilling (almost)...
#32
I have some of their electrics on my goose but on a bike everything is so easy to get at having to get in and replace something twice isn't as big of a concern.
For the fuel pump job I'd be looking for the best pump you could find. That certainly doesn't mean the most expensive though as the Jag pumps (when I was doing this job) were almost $300 and we all know how reliable they are.
You can check ebay or amazon. I found Delco pumps (made in China but I don't know if anything like this isn't these days) for $45 a piece. They were a direct fit but not exactly plug & play. I needed to cut off the old connectors to reuse them and not butcher the existing harness. If you end up with something like that and do any splicing that needs to be covered you'll want to get a hold of some fuel resistant heat shrink tubing. I found mine at McMaster-Carr but I'm sure there's other places to get this.
For the fuel pump job I'd be looking for the best pump you could find. That certainly doesn't mean the most expensive though as the Jag pumps (when I was doing this job) were almost $300 and we all know how reliable they are.
You can check ebay or amazon. I found Delco pumps (made in China but I don't know if anything like this isn't these days) for $45 a piece. They were a direct fit but not exactly plug & play. I needed to cut off the old connectors to reuse them and not butcher the existing harness. If you end up with something like that and do any splicing that needs to be covered you'll want to get a hold of some fuel resistant heat shrink tubing. I found mine at McMaster-Carr but I'm sure there's other places to get this.
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