Hard Starting
 

Hi all- Recent problem starting the Jag. It turns over and seems to run for less than a second then dies, this happens two times, then starts normally and runs perfectly thereafter. Weather has changed a bit in the past weeks but never had this problem before. I go through this process each morning any place to look? Thanks.


PS- Runs perfectly, no other problems and 50k miles on her.

Fuel pump, fuel filter. Wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel filter. Has it been sitting a while ? Only 50K miles, you might need to drive it some more, or add a fuel system cleaner like BG44. Or give the MAF and throttle body a cleaning. Just make sure to use the correct cleaners.

Tensioners changed? Might need new plugs, as well: 17 years is a long time. In addition to what Jim mentioned above.

Tensioners and plugs changed last year. Maybe fuel filter...thanks guys.

That's good news. I would definitely buy some MAF sensor cleaner and throttle cleaner. Cleaning the MAF is pretty straight forward (Google for a YouTube); throttle bore and plate cleaning is a little harder. Also might clean the part load breather -- be very careful with depth and size of drill bit used to clean it (lots of threads -- Google search).

Thanks Jim. Question though. If my fuel pump or even the filter is clogged, MAF and breather, why would the car run great all day? Including starting multi times per day. Just wondering...it has gotten worse each day. Thanks so much.

Coolant temperature sensor?

If it's bad it will send the wrong amount of fuel when the engine is cold, i think.

That just might be the problem: especially now that it is getting colder (more so in Idaho than here in SE Virginia and NC where it is 80* today). Do you still have the original plastic cross over pipe -- that is where the sensor is located -- if so, might be a good time to get a new one with a new sensor attached (bought mine from Welsh, but many suppliers).

I think I would still clean the MAF, throttle bore/plate, and part load breather.

Will do the cleaning...also thanks Harvest will check it out.

There is a thanks button.

Oops, forgot my manners. Thanks button used. Suggestion on fuel filter, direct fit. Promise to thank this time.

Update. Car stalled today going down a hill. Got home and noticed lots of oil in the part load breather, air box, and into the tube running towards the throttle body. I have replaced the part load breather, looks like the orange seal or rings are crushed. Also appears there should be some filter of some sort between the cam cover and the part load breather. I will clean the parts bt not likely going to solve the heavy oil problem. Thoughts? Thanks

There should be a wire mesh like heavy steel wool and a metal retainer plate inside the cam cover. There have been a couple instances of those parts reported missing.

RJ- I do recall seeing (I think) that setup with the mesh during the tensioner replacement...however looking down now from the outlet from the breather, I don't see any mesh at all. Could I ball up some steel wool and push into the area, of course not to far as to drop down all the way. Possible?

That idea makes me nervous. If it ever fell in it might cause big trouble. But what happened to the original? Maybe it's time to take the cam cover off.

Copy that. Cover coming off.

MAF and TB cleaned, also installed new coolant temp sensor. No improvement.

Bad MAF?

smtguy- Thank you. Me think too. I will replace the fuel filter and see if that helps, then to the MAF.

My fuel trims were a bit off and the engine would hesitate slightly on the interstate. My MPG was also averaging slightly lower than usual. According to a professional scan tool my MAF was reading "a little high", to quote the mechanic. But, he said it did not need replacing.

I picked a MAF up at a salvage yard and now fuel trims are perfect, mileage went back to normal and no hesitations.

I share this only to convey how difficult it can be to diagnose an inaccurate MAF.

Good luck.

Interesting. What should the MAF read? My long term fuel trims had been running slightly positive (+3.9 - 4.7, but equal both banks), but in the last couple weeks going hight (+7.5) indicating an air leak somewhere. Doubled up the O-ring on the dipstick and that brought it back towards zero, but often as not in +5.0 range.

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the tread.

Maybe the third task would be to clean the coils . . . and also the connections to the MAF sensor. What did the plugs look like?

Jim- Cleaned the MAF and connectors, hadn't thought to check the plugs. Just replaced last year, but they could still give information. Just completed the fuel filter change, very dirty of course. I will update after test drive and morning start up to see if that resolved any of the issues. Thanks

I am going to replace the MAF if I don't get results from the fuel filter change. I am not getting any check engine lights, figured if I had a bad MAF, I should get a check light, then to auto parts store to get the codes read.

My MAF didn't cause any codes. Your symptoms are worse than mine though, so I would think it would be more likely to set a code if it was the MAF, but I don't know.

My test equipment only shows lb/MN for MAF, so I really don't know what the mechanic was referring to when he said "reading a little high".

Hard Starting Thread Resolved. Turns out to be a very clogged fuel filter. The other work I am sure was helpful and I want to thank you all for the ideas.

Must not have solved the problem. Now the car has stalled three times while commuting, interesting it stalls when I am going downhill. What's up with that? I will go and look through other threads for answers...I do notice oil in the air filter, and oil leaking near spark plug cover. I will pull cover and check plugs, just changed plugs last year. It begins once again. Start up is just fine after MAF cleaning and new fuel filter.

Follow up question. Can you get codes if there never was a check engine light? Through this whole process, I never have received a "check engine " message. Could I jus go have someone plug in a code reader and codes would appear? Stupid questions but I guess I don't understand the process, I assume if the car dies, a check engine light would appear, then you get it read, then go after the problem. Thanks guys.

Yes you can have codes stored. A local auto parts store should be willing to check for codes.

Taking in consideration the oil in the air filter, which might indicate a blockage of the partial flow breather, you should probably clean that, the intake tube and the throttle body. All are easy and the procedures are available in the DIY or jagrepair.com.

But do not spray cleaner into the throttle body. Spray it on a rag and use that, making sure the butterfly and the body are both clean. A buildup of gunk around the butterfly can often result in shutdown when the pedal is released.`

A warning: Be careful handling the intake tube. the accordion bellows gets brittle and can crack, letting air in.

RJ- got the code...p1111
Jhartz- Will take a look at the plugs today.

I will go through other treads to see what the p1111 is indicating. Thanks guys

P1111 is the good code; all checks accomplished. If no other codes, it is a mechanical issue.

Follow RJ's instructions: clean the throttle bore and plate; carefully clean the part load breather (Google or search for how to do it, the diameter and depth for inserting the drill bit is critical); take the slack out of throttle cable; check to assure all connections from the air cleaner to throttle body are air tight.

Oil in the air filter housing is a problem (The air filter is clean, right?): spray MAF cleaner on the MAF sensor again. Is there oil in the spark plug wells? If you can find it, BG44 in a tank of gas might help (although I don't think dirty injectors are causing your issue).

Jim- Here is what I found. After removing coils, two plug wells were filled with oil. Removed cam cover and discovered that one side of figure eight plug gasket was totally destroyed and found the pieces in the valve area. Holy crap. Just a matter of time before those pieces caused major problems. If I didn't check the plugs would have missed everything. I am ordering new gasket set with new figure eight gaskets, hope this will solve the problems. Have been cleaning all parts just to be sure and will replace the plugs while I am in there. You guys may have saved my car. HUGE thanks. I will post update, sorry no pics to see.

Do you have the metal secondary tensioners?

Yes. I can see them clearly.

Wow, a close one!

I think what happened during installation the figure eight gasket must of slipped off the/out of the channel. Now I am wondering how to stick them in better, thinking using rtv, tacky gasket to hold the entire gasket in place.

Oops. To be more clear, in the channels not the mating surface. Has anyone used this method to hold the gasket in the channels during install?

The ones in my set were a snug fit so I didn't need a sealant. However, the rings for my XJ6 were a little loose, and the mag. cover was rough and porous, so I used the Permatex black with good results.

Thanks RJ, I hoping for your input.