Hello again, I have my 2 new pumps, filter sock and filter which I am going to replace on my 2002 XJR (failed pumps). I'm just going to lower the rear subframe/suspension to get to the 2 fuel lines straight away, rather than fighting blind for a couple hours.

Do I just lower the diff and axles? Or does the whole subframe need to come down? Which fasteners do I need to remove/loosen? I don't mind if I throw out the alignment, I could use a new one anyway.

Any help is much appreciated. I have the Jag up on a 4-post lift right now, and I have a hydraulic lift table I can use to let the subframe down with.

I've got the trim out of the trunk and am undoing the filler neck, wires, etc right now, but will need to address the lines under the tank in a little while.

Thank you,

Mike

 

Anyone?

I've got the rear of the car lifted and supported on a hydraulic rolling jack (slides btwn the lift rails) and a floor jack on some 2x10's across the rails supporting the subframe.

Can't tell if those 6 bolts are all I need to undo, or if I need to remove the top shock mount bolts also, and undo the handbrake cable.

Help?

 

I have the 8 (thought there were only 6) bolt holding the front of the subframe to the car loose/out. Backed off the handbrake adjusting hut.

Trying to deal with shocks now. 2 nuts on each shock are a pain to get to. Should I just undo the large single bolt at the bottom of each shock instead?

Mike

 

No-one?

I've got all the fasters out to remove the subframe, but can't get the left subframe bushing off its post. Frozen on. Beating with a deadblow hammer and using a 2-foot pry bar are having no effect. Been soaking in penetrating fluid for an hour now. The right side slides up and down its post easily.

Has anyone ever considered forming a posse to hunt down the Jag engineers who designed this car to be so difficult to change the fuel pumps?

Mike

 

Hi Mike
Here is a PDF file I created from the JTIS21 Jaguar Shop Manual Software on Rear Subframe Removal & install:

Free Cloud Storage - MediaFire

11 pages with instructions and illustrations.

Jim Lombardi

 

Jim, I found your page a little after the fact, thanks.

I tried for hours yesterday to get the subframe down. Everything is unbolted, but the left side subframe bushing is frozen onto the locating pin/tube mounted on the car. I've pounded it with a deadblow hammer dozens upon dozens of times, pried the living crap out of it with a 2 foot praybar, jacked the car up by that point, then released it quickly, jacked it back up, released, over and over. I finally tried heating the aluminum in the centre of the bushing with a propane torch. I heat cycled it several times, alternating with penetrating oil, prying, and jacking. I've also tried twisting the whole subframe around that post, but it just twists the rubber bushing section and doesn't do anything to the metal section.

I'm thinking I'm going to have to torch the bushing to the point it melts to free the stuck centre section at this point. I don't want to destroy the bushing, but not sure what else I can do.

Thanks,

Mike

 

No suggestions at all, eh?

Well I'll post anyway to let people in the future know how I solved this problem, since inevitably, other people will have a seized/stuck subframe.

I used a propane torch (the small blue canister type you can buy almost anywhere) to heat the aluminum center of the bushing, then sprayed penetrating fluid on the top, and up inside it. Then pounded on the subframe using a deadblow hammer. Did this several times, letting the bushing cool down a bit each time to heat cycle it and try to break the seized area free. Finally, I heated it up really well (smoke pouring off the bushing, afraid I would ruin it) and I used my 2 foot Craftsman prybar with the tip angled down towards the subframe and a 3 lb sledge to beak the subframe free and drive it downwards. Finally came loose.

Mike

 

Which are the parts which seized together? I'm not quite visualizing what happened. Thx.

 

Hi Mike
Was the bushing that you had the major problem with removing, one of the 2 rear subframe bushings (one for each side):



Jim Lombardi

 

At the top of the bottom picture, the tapered steel locating cone that is part of the car's chassis was seized into the aluminum center piece of the bushing. Rock solid.

I tried the little plastic fuel line disconnect from Autozone, no luck getting the lines apart. Then I tried making the metal tool from the toilet line that someone posted a picture of. I did that last night after the kids went to bed, and got it onto the left hand line and tried pushing, twisting, pulling the line downward as I pushed and twisted, etc. No luck there either, lol.

Is there another fuel line quick disconnect somewhere that is more accessible that I can practice on so that I can see how it releases, and inspect the mechanism so I'll have better luck up under the car?

Thanks,

Mike

 

Hi,
There is a quick disconnect fitting on the rear of the fuel rail which I think is the same size as the tank fitting. Yours being LHD I'm not sure which side it's on, if you remove the plastic covers around the coolant and brake fluid together with the centre cover you will soon find the fitting.

If I ever have to tackle this job (and I pray I don't) then I had thought of cutting through the fuel lines, say about 4inches from the tank and reconnecting them with rubber tubing and clips after the job is done. Obviously you would not want any sparks when cutting the lines, I was thinking of using a junior hacksaw. To my mind once rubber tubing and clips were in place removing the tank would be a lot easier.

Hope you get it sorted out soon.

 

Those subframe bushes are one of the most challenging jobs...

When putting them back in I use a good amount of copperslip/anti-seize.

There are two fuel lines at the back of the engine, to and return, they both have rubber fuel hose onto the fuel rail and you'll be able to practice removal/install as the tank clips are the same.

It's all about getting the hose clip removal tool right up into the clip so you push the release mech off the pipes. Get the correct diameter seated and really shove it in, then it should just be a case of holding it there while wiggling the hose free.

No codes for the misfire? If it stalls out it's a possible an air leak post MAF.

Oil does commonly cause a misfire if in the plug wells, so worth checking out.

If you think this is doing your head in, try a total rebuild I spent many nights thinking why am I bothering? you'll get there in the end. Chin up

 

I'm thinking cutting the lines isn't sounding like a bad option right about now.

1) There is a rubber block the fuel lines run into. You can't even see the quick disconnects. I assume they are inside the rubber?

2) If I do manage to actually get the lines to come apart, will all the residual fuel in the tank pour out?

3) I tried getting a siphon hose into the tank through the fill cap, but can't seem to get the hose all the way down into the tank. It seems to catch on a lip or something about a foot in. Any tips?

I can't believe what a poor design this is as far as maintenance is concerned.

Thanks,

Mike

 

I'll answer my own questions:

1) Yes.

2) Apparently not, a least not in my case.

3) Anti-siphon feature it would seem. Once you get the tank far enough into the trunk you can get the top off and siphon most of the gas out.

Mike