How to retorque 24mm crank/lower pulley bolt the correct amount?
 

A 24mm 6 sided socket and breaker bar to the floor under the car allowed easy removal by using the starter motor (pulley fuel pump and inter cooler water pump fuses first)

but...

How do I re-tighten this big bolt back to proper spec when I put it back on??

I used a length of rope in one of the cylinders ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE and that stopped the motor. Others have uses a crowbar ion the flex plate- I figured the rope trick would be less likely to cause damage...

Remove spark plug and insert rope, got it! I'll make sure I'm all flats on the cams for that cylinder so I know the valves are not down.

thanks!

Somewhere on Jaguarforums.com, and I "think" it is in the X300 section, is a how-to w/photos showing how to double the drive belt back over itself on the crank pulley allowing you to hold it in-place. The concept is likely applicable to yours, though whether or not you could use the existing belt or would need to purchase one of a different length for the task is an unknown.


For my part, The starter wasn't strong enough to break it loose - merely lifted the left front corner of the car a bit, until it broke my breaking bar. I purchased a NitroCat 1200k impact wrench to remove the bolt, then used the lowest "on" setting to replace it. ~allegedly on the order of 200 ft lbs against a spec of 135-165 ft lbs (183 nm max) So I played around with the wrench, the air pressure, and a lug-bolt on my tractor wheel til I thought I had something close to 183 nm - Don't know how close to perfect I got it, but that was back in September and I've put 8K + miles on it since with no problems:


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...74/#post802973

Hmmmm without the proper gear....... 350nm is pretty tight to do up, surely you must of used the lining up tools for doing the tensioners, with them all still in situ, so the flexi plate holding tool and the cam locking tools, you can tighten the pulley bolt up

aholbro1, isn't the spec 350nm which works out to be about 258 ft lbs?


XKRacer: I did not remove the chains, I only changed the tensioners themselves.

When I did the uppers via zip tie method, (which involves lifting one cam up so the new 2ndary tensioner can be swapped in), it was my understanding that without the chain jumping a tooth, the timing would be unchanged, is this not true?

You are preferring to apply the 350nm against the cams instead of the piston as the better method? I want to make sure I do this the better way,which ever that is.

Quite possibly! Sorry for any confusion I introduced. My experience descends from the AJ16 application on the X300, where the spec was 183 nm. Just passing along a trial-and-error bracketing technique I used to achieve something reasonably near the target value with an impact wrench without having to block the crank.

(No, breakaway torque isn't equivalent to seating torque, let alone who among us is using a dial-indicating torque wrench to measure tare-torque and adding that to the spec as we should, for proper pre-load.)

In the case of the AJ16, the spec range is 30 ft-lbs wide, so I think there's room for a bit of error, and as I said, mine hasn't come off yet....and having changed the front seal at the time - I genuinely hope to not have to remove it ever again!

Sorry, despite awhile spent searching, I haven't located the how-to with pics showing the method of re-wrapping the drive belt with it doubled back on itself to hold the crank pulley stationary - I KNOW it was in one of the following sections: X300, X308, or S-Type - the only sections I've spooked around in regarding delaminated dampers..

No worries. I do appreciate your input, and do thank you for contributing the info.

Thats how we do it.

I must admit I admire your enthusiasm to do all this without locking tools and the idea of putting rope down a plug hole!!! I am definitely not a fan of that or the zip tie method, I get why people do it that way but sheesh.......

And I would not trust the link in the chain or IMO the weak link, I don't care if everyone says they have not had any failures, it still makes me nervous

If I am doing a pulley upgrade like I am at the moment I use a holding tool like in the pic below which also shows the puller

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/021...v%3D1363059330

If anyone is interested I do have a CAD drawing of the tensioner tools, I never got around to adding the dimensions but I believe some one did on the a XK forum, I did it using an old version of AutoCAD, release 14 I believe, if anyone wants it let me know

XKRacer, thanks for the push to do it right.

I just bought this one off ebay.

Land Rover Jaguar Crankshaft Pulley Removal Installer Kit | eBay

I will make this tool available for a very low cost rental if anyone else needs it.

After thinking about it, I'm not quite comfortable with the rope method and thought it best to use the correct tool.

I'm going to put on the stock lower pulley and see if I end up with approx 14-15 psi with my mods and the stock upper and lower pulleys. I was getting 9.5-10 psi on my gauge with the stock pulleys before my mods, and 18-19 with just the lower pulley and stock upper with my mods. I'm curious how much extra boost my mods have given, and this will tell for sure.

I'm also a little worried that running the 18-19 psi could hasten a head gasket blowing, and since this isn't "the fast car" of the feline family, I want to see if I am content with 14-15 psi and less worry about possibly blowing a head gasket.

Question: Is there any special procedure to re-install the lower pulley other than: replace little o-ring inside the pulley, slide the pulley on using the tool I just bought, hand thread the bolt, then torque it to 350 nm?

Just do it up, you can use locktite if you wish but seriously you don't need it, as to the O Ring, up to you, I have not worried unless there is obvious damage

As to the head gasket, I wouldn't worry too much and on the off chance it does go it is not a hard job and fitting the later 4.2 gaskets will make things a lot better