Hi Sar98VDP !

Yep, way beyond expensive.
I've had problems with this dealer before about doing repairs on Jags older than 7 years.
It seems they are actually discouraging owners from seeking repairs on older models.
I can see it from a business standpoint. Gotta make room in the repair cycle for newer models and the training cycles have to make room for new repair procedures and equipment. So, if the owners get costly repair quotes they may decide to opt for
a newer model with Factory financed warranties.
The sales people get commissions, the repair dept. gets factory training and equipment
and the Dealership gets profits that keep them in business. And the manufacturers get
to produce newer cars to sell. Most every one is happy with this model !
Who am I to judge if the profits are excessive or undeserved?
If they don't make money they don't stay in business.
Like the song in the movie, The Cabaret, says - "Money makes the world go round !"

Their presence and cost models allow the owner repair market to flourish and thrive.
I do wish they would be more forthcoming with information on repairs and repair
procedures. I am happy that this forum exists to fill those gaps !

POR - Press On Regardless !

 

Hi, I have a 2001 XK8 convt. I want to change the upper tensioners as well. What quality parts did you use ? the prices are all over the place, some on E-Bay are very cheap. Should I look for original equip parts from GB ?
Where might I find the tools to lock down the cams & the crank...thanks..jack

 

Seriously? This thread, alone, has twenty pages, with many referrals back to the XK8 forum which also has lots of material on this issue, and you couldn't find the answer to your question?

In the US (where is Amherst?) many people buy the parts from Chirstopher's in NJ (US). Tools, too. A buddy of mine found his secondary parts at our local Lincoln dealer.

 

Tools:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EWK-1997-20...UAAOSw2GlXGCiz

Parts:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JAGUAR-V8-4...dVR9B3&vxp=mtr

 

This is an excellent, quality crank pulley locking tool complete with pulley puller, if you wanted to do both primary and secondary tensioners........which is recommended.


.

 

I understand that some people are not familiar with forums. The first time I signed on to a car forum (long time ago) I had no idea what to do. I never even thought of "searching", it's a forum. What "forum" meant to me was that it's a bunch of people talking to each other about car stuff.

It makes obvious sense now that there's a huge database already in place buy hey, it was Jack's very first post. Maybe he is like I was the first time I signed on to a car forum. His first impression should be what a nice bunch of guys we are because, in my experience on here, it really is a nice bunch of guys, and girls of course.

 

I agree. I guess (well there really is no guessing about it!) I am getting old and cranky. It just seemed to me that if you stumble on a thread that matches your issues and see twenty pages, that you might start reading from one . . .

So, J1941, I am sorry . . .

another early 40's guy!

 

Jim, you have helped me many times on here. You are among the "nice bunch of guys" I was referring to. I totally get the impatience though, sometimes that's my first reaction as well. Hey, I'm getting a bit old and cranky, too!

 

Hi Guys,
I'm changing out my timing chains, idlers and whatnot. I got a toolkit like the one shown below. I've watched multiple videos and read this thread on how to do it, but I cant figure out what some of the tools are for. If anybody could help me with the following I would appreciate it.
1. What are the 0.8mm and 3mm pins for?
2. Why are there two Crankshaft positioning tools? One is silver and one gold and they have different flat spots.
I've seen where to use the positioning tool, but not sure which one or if I need two. Maybe on is for the Land Rover.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

The pins are for installing into the tensioners to hold them "locked-down" when installing them onto the block. You probably won't need them, most of the time new tensioners come with pins already in them... Just don't take them out until needed. The pins are for differently oriented flywheel lock holes, you just try both and see which one fits, I think mine used the silver one. You can theoretically use either, but the correct one will align with the sensor bolt hole and allow you to bolt it down, while the other one will fit in the locking hole, but the bolt hole will not be aligned, so it will just sit loosely in there.

 

Numbers 7 and 8 are pins used to replace the larger plastic-headed holding pins that come with the tensioners. Once the tensioners are installed, with the new guides and chains, the pins that come with the tensioners are too large and interfere with the chains/guides on two of the four tensioners, so you replace them with the provided pins 7 & 8. You will see what I mean when you get to this stage.

The crank positioning tools, one gold one silver, they are for two different flywheels, but to be truthful I forget which models, but you will see which one to use on your vehicle once you shine a flashlight inside the flywheel inspection cover and see how the flats align. Only one of the tools will work on your vehicle.


Nilanium, beat me to it........ditto what he said.




.

 

Thank for the info guys.
I am working on locking the crank into position, but I've run into a problem.
The left side cam flats line up, and the exhaust on the right line up. But the right intake cam is pretty far from aligning to the flats.
Also, in this position, I cannot see any marks on the flywheel like I should. My instructions say to look for a triangle mark.
So, is my timing off? Could the VVT have moved the intake cam?
No specific flywheel marks when 3 of the cams are in the flat position.
Left cams aligned.
*note the idler looks upside down.... curious.
Right cams. The exhaust aligns, but the intake is off.

 

So, I turned the crank a little and I see a threaded hole which might be the mark I'm looking for, but now all the cams are a little off of the flat marks.
So it seems my timing is off.
I'm thinking I need to lock it down on the mark, then when putting the new chains on, move the cams so that they are all on the flat with the locking bar tools.
Does that sound like a solid plan?
The car was driving and sounding good before I started this. I just wanted to replace the plastic before it went bad.
Also, Is my left idler on upside down. I thought they should both be installed the same way. Currently one is pushing up, the other is pushing down on the chain.

 

You need to continue to rotate the crankshaft..........until all 4 cam flats are "horizontal". Then the specially shaped flywheel locating slot will be in the correct place.

 

.

Also, if you are replacing all 4 tensioners, guides and chains, you should not lock down the cams yet, you should only lock the cams and insert the flywheel positioning tool when you are ready to replace the tensioners/guides/chains.

i.e. After the crank pulley and timing cover etc. are removed.


.

 

The hole you're looking for is just barely visible in you photo. It has a rounded top. (see linked thread post #3) https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...timing-194862/

It appears that the one cam on your right side has skipped a tooth, so you will only get them horizontal after changing the chains.

 

I found the rounded hole. the silver pin fit into it to lock the flywheel in position. see picture below.
Once I got in there, I found that the plastic component have started cracking, so it is a good thing I didn't put this off any longer.
New upgraded parts are going in.
Also, I found that the upper idlers were correct. One pushes up and the other pushes down.

Thank you for the help.
This forum is great.


Cracked Plastic Parts

 

Has anybody had trouble with the VVT 12mm Socket head bolt with the hole through it?
I was torquing mine to 120 N-m, but it didn't get to the torque and kept turning. I took it back out and it had stretched and almost broke.
I found a replacement at https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/English/home. I read that you do not want to torque these bolts more than twice anyway so I'll replace both.
The instructions I found recommended 120 - 125 N-m. Does that sound like too much?
When I ordered it, it had a note that this item has been replaced by a different part. I wonder if the original bolts were not hardened enough?
Just sharing my woes and wondering if anybody else had the same problem.

Thanks

 

The later hollow VVT bolts should be torqued to 65ftlbs (88nM)


.

 

I'm putting my cam sprocket gears back into place.
It seems very odd to me that there are no keyways or splines or anything to prevent slippage. Only the surface friction keeps the cam/gears in place.
I'm thinking of putting locktite on the friction surfaces to ensure a better joint.
Has anybody tried that or any other method?
Or maybe I'm overthinking it.