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Inertial cutoff switch XJ8 (308) 1998
can some pls send a post or send me a photo of where in the footwell the Inertial cutoff switch is pls
the car is RHD I checked the consol wall and side walls I can't see it! as I have replaced the fuel pump and checked pressure at the engine all ok it ran great B4 the fuel pump died so I don't know what could have happened for it to crank only so thought better check the switch also when the ignition key is turned on the pump only seems to run for a few seconds is that normal anyway so I bypassed the relay by jumping the terminals heard it running fine then cranked the engine still no start I'm going nuts over this |
If you can hear the pump prime when you turn the ignition switch the the inertia switch is not tripped. The pump is what is de-activated when it trips. The pump only runs for a short burst to prime the fuel rail and then goes to sleep until the engine is cranked indicating that the engine now requires fuel, at that point the pump should fire up again. |
Great that's out of the list.
still, be nice to be able to see it as the engine hasent been started for a few months is it possible to flood it? |
If you have a Driver's Manual, there is a picture to show the location of the switch. I thought it was in the right sidewall behind the rug for both LHD and RHD, but not sure about the RHD.
My guess is you have bore wash which is keeping you from having compression. Try cranking it with the accelerator all the way open (on the floor); this allows oil to build on the cylinder walls; then let up which gives gas . . Or maybe pull a couple of plugs and puts some oil in a few cylinders. Let's of threads on bore wash. |
Great I will give that a go never heard of bore wash B4
very interesting reading though I let you know what happenes Thanks heaps |
Many cars hardly ever suffer bore wash but sadly some suffer fairly often under certain circumstances. A bit annoying but there are far worse things!
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I tried about 4 times with foot to floor. I will continue today, then will remove a spark plug or plug's to check the spark
Question will it make any difference to try starting while on stands maybe this car knows it's but is in the air? |
The car being up on stands shouldn’t be a problem. Is the battery up to full voltage? If it is how long are you cranking for each time and are you keeping the pedal down and not releasing? In my experience the engine will eventually fire once the excess fuel has been expelled. Once it catches the release the pedal. If that dosen’t work then you might have to remove all the plugs and drop a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder to try to seal the rings. hope this helps |
ok car is off stands
battery full plus using jumper leads made of cables used for electric wielders 500amps continuous easy so plenty of grunt. pedal down full crank for 10-15 sec wait 15 sec and crank again I did this 5 -6 times at least sounded like it went to kick once turned key off. waited couple of min tried start did not touch pedal gave a 1 of kick to run then back to cranking again next pulled a plug looks a bit dark not light brown colour got the other half to crank and checked spark got a nice big orange spark then put it back together. turned key on waited till fuel pump stopped and depressed the fuel line shrodder valve, it doesn't seam to be a squirt that would indicate a back pressure of 40psi I'm suspect about the fuel pressure. so tomorrow I will buy a pressure set up to check fuel pressure its gotta be close to fire up. ps dip stick smelt of fuel a bit. |
found the Inertial cut off it in the manual RHS drive located right side footwell side wall
Thanks |
Just an update on my car not starting after replacing the fuel pump
it is not the cutoff switch I could only get a push on tire pressure gauge it showed 48psi when turning on ignition for a couple of seconds then dropped to 38psi probably not accurate its only a cheapie anyhow at least there is fuel it has a great spark as well so I've removed all spark plugs sure are dirty and a lot of oil around them when I took them out I would like to attach a photo of them but unsure how too so I figure let it air out for a few hours its 30degC here, and thought I would put 10ml of oil into each before putting the plugs back not sure when I crank again to press the pedal to the floor or don't touch anything? probably try not touching anything any help would be good |
To post a picture got ‘Go Advanced’ and click on the paper clip on the menu bar you will see this; https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c626c9dc37.png Once you have found the picture(s) you want to use click on the ‘upload’ button How old are the spark plugs and when you say there is oil is it on the ceramic portion or on the electrode area? If its on the ceramic then its probably the cam cover gaskets need to be replaced. Oil in the cylinders and leave the gas pedal alone |
thankyou I started a new thread also about the fuel pressure in the rail it has photos of the plugs
pls check it out and let me know regards John Dutchy |
Once you put oil in a few cylinders and reinstalled the plugs, let it crank for just a second to coat the rings and cylinders: then try to start it normally -- no accelerator play. If it is bore wash, it should start since you clearly have gas, compression and spark.
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To Robman 25 the oil was only on the threads, I am sure it is making its way down to the plugs as when I pulled the coil and cover that comes with it the bottom of the rubber cover has oil dripping from it, so I am sure there is a build up of oil down there around the plug, I cleaned it out with a rag and screwdriver.
But wondering how it's getting down and from where? |
Originally Posted by Dutchy
(Post 2037876)
To Robman 25 the oil was only on the threads, I am sure it is making its way down to the plugs as when I pulled the coil and cover that comes with it the bottom of the rubber cover has oil dripping from it, so I am sure there is a build up of oil down there around the plug, I cleaned it out with a rag and screwdriver.
But wondering how it's getting down and from where? https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/Eng...4.0%20LITRE-V8 |
Thanks, carnival, however, is it parts 2,3,4
or15,16 as I like to order them before removal 3.2Ltr x308 |
I'm not sure which is which, the early engines were the A26 and the later ones were the A27, and the valve cover gaskets are different. The A26 is easily recognizable as it does not have the electrical solenoid connections on the top of the valve cover for the VVTs, whereas the A27 does as it has electronically controlled "infinitely" variable valve timing..
Yours is a 1998 so I am assuming it is a A26 motor,. (If you post a pic of your motor it should be easy to identify) I am completely unfamiliar with the 3.2 version, so don't know where it fits in the picture. If you do a search on this forum there have been several threads regarding the different gaskets and what they fit or don't fit, if I remember correctly there is even a color difference. Others with more detailed knowledge may also chime in here? . |
yes it is an AJ26 no VVT
thanks |
Ah, here is a forum link that should clear things up..................................
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...covers-212566/ |
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