Tonight was finally the passenger side wheel bearing replacement. Had a scary moment where the inner race of the new bearing caught on the shaft and started to separate, but was remedied just fine and the rest went without a hitch.

Note to self: So much easier to put the dust shield on BEFORE pressing the hub back in.

So the only glaring things I have on my to-do list, are to replace the driver's door actuator, new motor mounts, and I think a couple sway links still. But I managed to also inadvertently sort out my interlock issue where it seemed to be engaging every brake pedal press, no matter what gear I was in.

All in all though, a good day. Tomorrow, weather permitting, will be cleaning out the car and whatnot.

 

Just updating myself. 193k and replaced the front KYB shocks as they had completely gone to hell over the last few weeks. Other than that, not much happening - unless you count that it seems I've got a braking issue.

 

Alrighty. Update time for my log. Not many more miles than before, since the day after that shock replacement, I beached the car into the ditch in a snowbank, destroyed both front bearings and then some.

So yesterday, replaced both fronts again. Now I just have to get the brake booster in and hope that solves my pedal issues, get another washer reservoir, and another under tray. Then I can get back on schedule for the regular stuff I have in mind for summer. Good times.

 

Updating for the time being:

Replaced the driver's side outer u-joint in the halfshaft a few weeks back, which seems to have solved THAT side. The driver's side, I replaced that one too thinking that it was causing some extra slop. Turns out it's the pivot pin bearings that are shot, so those will be here on Monday. I also sprayed the brake switch with cleaner which has stopped that failsafe from coming, and sealed the master cylinder against the booster which gave me full braking again. I still have the P1121 popping up, which I need to deal with, and track down what's keeping my brake light/low fluid message up. And a new recurring P0455 evap code that a new gas cap didn't solve. With great mileage, comes great maintenance responsibility, I guess.

 

By mileage, I meant it has high miles, not that it gets it...

Just to catch myself up: I did replace the drivers bearings. Followed by fixing the master cylinder seal to the booster as that was still hissing at me. I thought perhaps that was causing some of my issues. It wasn't. Replaced the purge control valve under the hood, to see if that would clear the 0455. It didn't.

And the end result, is that I had to adjust the throttle cable to have a constant pressure on the throttle so the car doesn't die out without my foot on the pedal. Wearing the brakes faster, revs much higher in park, but at least driveable. I just ordered a reman throttle body that will be here next week. Fingers crossed I can at least drive normal afterwards. And then it'll be a matter of what's tripping everything else.

Not counting the P1121 - I'm getting P0455 on and off, as well as P0101, 0172/175 again, etc. The 0455 is a pain, but the others, well.. all paths do lead to the Throttle Body at some point, and probably having the throttle rigged is poppnig those off.

Never ends for sure. Another 2500 bucks and she's totally paid off (yes, I vastly VASTLY overpaid with interest lol) and then... onto the next bad decision

 

 

Cannisters I checked first thing. I had that experience prior when I did some shocks a couple years ago and knocked one loose. That doesn't mean the o-ring isn't bad though, just the tubes are all connected and proper. But I figure now, seeing as the purge valve didn't help any, it's time to revisit that area. The cap was OEM, I thought, but now I'm second guessing. It's certainly in better shape than my old one, but who knows.

 

From one Charles to another : godspeed sir, I'm currently having a shop go back behind themselves to remedy a rear wheel bearing job. I relate on many levels sir lol.

 

Gets better - Totaled our Dodge Caliber today pegging a deer on the highway, so now I guess I better manage to sort it sooner than later lol. Always something!

 

Catching up the last month. Has it only been a month? I did finally replace the throttle body, which has at best, solved my P1121 issues, or at worst, at least is better than it was. It's been cooler, which is when the codes never seemed to come up but considering the constant throttle requirement the old one was getting into, I call it a success. And of course now there's someone parting one out for 200 bucks less than I paid. Oh well, don't care, it works.

I haven't sorted the evap code yet, due to replacing the other car, and getting the boat set up for the season in storage and general other things. But now I also have to replace the passenger side (right hand side) outer u-joint again. Just did it a few months back, but there's definitely something going on. Since this is the 4th time I'll have done it, I don't know if that qualifies me as an expert at it, or just really **** at doing them since here I am again lol. To be fair, the first one I overcranked and pushed the end through the cap. Then I replaced that one, (and now that I think about it, why the hell did I replace the ENTIRE u-joint when I did, instead of just using a new cap off a new one... I'm dumb...), and then did the other side too. I don't know, something's up though. Just want to get the rear to stop dancing on curves before snow starts landing.

 

New Year Update: Catching up over the last post. Turns out it wasn't the U-joint that was bad, it was actually the wheel bearing itself. I debated upon just re-pressing one, but then knowing the pivot pin bearings were worn too, I replaced the entire assembly with a low mileage used one. Was a bit annoying to get the old one off, the old rotors wouldn't free from the parking brake pads, so I ended up using a puller on the rotor and just obliterated the old bits, replacing with the new was pretty quick. Hardest part was reattaching the parking brake and shoe springs. And I'm glad I got the practice, because the driver's side recently blew out the pivot pin bearings again. That's probably on me, since I wasn't able to fully replace them before - I ended up reusing the old races, and put the new bearings in. It was 90% better than before, but I'm sure it was on borrowed time from the get go. So I picked up another used assemble for the other side, which with luck I can get on tomorrow. Cold weather willing. Also had the 1 year old, 20k mile KYB shocks go out. Yeah, not doing that again, warranty or not. Still no sorting on the Evap code, but it's too cold to be crawling under the car. Bad enough to need to do the other stuff. It's rough in times like this, when I just look forward to when I can park it and pick something else up, and I'd be lying if I said there weren't days I don't even feel like keeping it. But it's not a common car around here, and I'm selfish and wouldn't sell it to anyone nearby, because I'd regret ever seeing it being driven by someone else. But it's also barely worth anything right now, considering the issues and mileage. But tell you, having tires go out and shocks bouncing that shouldn't be, and i'm so tempted to trade it in for the wholesale value it'd get, towards it's replacement. We'll see in a month or so when I get to that point

 

Nearly 200K is a lot of mileage but it's a personal choice, do you love it enough to keep it running or is the headache too much. You also got to ask yourself if the money you are spending is better used elsewhere. Me personally I'm wrenching and driving my XJs until they explode, but I'm crazy. Also keep in mind XJs aren't likely to get any cheaper. You can still find good examples of XJ8s and XJRs with under 100K at great prices. If you want an XJ for the next decade with fewer headaches think about trading up while the getting is good.

 

At 214k now. But I do like the car, but it's just getting to where I'd prefer to not put any more money into it on a constant basis. And right now, it's almost paid off, and the money I'd be putting back into it would be better served going towards something newer and with less needs. I change my mind constantly though so who knows what'll happen between now and March when I decide to replace it with something else. If I do keep it, it'll be so that I can tinker over time with it, on my own convenience instead of going oh crap, this broke and I need to fix it now so I can keep getting to work.

 

215k and change - and today was replacing the front shocks with Bilstein sports instead of the blown out KYB pos's. They went out about two weeks ago. No real warning, just like last time. Suddenly, I was bouncing. Also found a bad tie rod end that I need to replace. On the flip side, I've decided on the next vehicle. Now I just need to make it happen.

 

Thumbs up on the Bilsteins. KYBs work OK on a base XJ8 IMO because 60 profile tires will absorb more than the 40s on the XJR. The low profile tires and overall stiffer suspension made the ride with KYBs subpar, though they never failed. Once I switched out to Bilsteins I had the right balance of sport and comfort, worth the extra bucks.

 

CharlzO--What was/were symptom(s) of your "Rear Shock (strut?) mount ??? My '03 XJR Green/Grey w/ the 7-spoke Mini-like wheels and 103k miles: Rear wheels have a little "in/out" knock-knock "play" and I believe that is wheel bearings. Can they be tightened or repacked ? Time to replace ? I do hear some "klunk" noises going over road bumps...sounds like "play" somewhere in suspension/shocks??? Any ideas out there?

Ed
JCNA in Aiken/Beaufort, SC

 

The shock mounts were pretty apparent as a clunking noise that sounded like it was coming from the trunk area over bumps. The Wheel Bearings could definitely do it too though. First thing would be to get the wheel in the air and give it some good pushing around, and wiggling, to see if you can narrow down if there is play in a bearing or bushing, and if so, from where. you have the standard wheel bearings themselves, which aren't too horrible for changing. Then there's the pivot pin bearings that the assembly rides on, which let the wheel wiggle in and out, and in extreme cases, it's by what seems to change the tire angle by not just a little, but a LOT. And will definitely dart the back of the car around in corners if you get that far - ask how I know..

And then there's also the u-joints in the rear axle shafts, which can also give some clunking about. First step is trying to find where anything could be loose and then then narrow down from there.

 

I agree with everything CharlzO wrote but does the sound only clunk when you go over a rough patch (like train tracks)? In my experience the shocks and mounts seem to go before the bearings and are easier/less costly to deal with. In the four XJ8s/XJRs I have worked on the lower shock busking and upper shock tower bushings (doughnut) were extremely worn and had to be replaced. On only one was the bearing the issue and that one had 150K on the odometer. If you have the car jacked up to check the wheel play also shine a light in the hole of the rear arm where the lower shock bushing is and on the shock. Worn bushings will likely be gnarled and the upper shock/coil busking will be flaking (although this is harder to see until the shock/coil is removed). Not sure if this is helpful just sharing my experience.

 

THANKS...VERY helpful. Keen to get terminology close to correct so I don't sound like some "doofus."

Ed

 

Interesting read.... bottom line ? Our friend CharlzO bought a 120k "High mileage" Jag to begin with then packed on another 100k or so including towing boats around and driving in winter ?
So the enormous amount of repairs/replacements and money doing so should not come as a big surprise..."comes with the territory" so to speak.
Its easy to understand why he and so many others consider this last of the low slung "sexy" Jaguar saloons to be the pinnacle of the legendary XJ 'bloodline". Its really easy to fall in love with such a car. They are truly beautiful

I own the "sister" car to his... an anthracite/charcoal 2003 XJR (steel x308) in near mint condition and yes, I too, am "in love" . The HUGE difference is that it now has a whopping 42K miles on it ( bought it 5 years ago @ 38k miles). So at this point none of the known higher mileage failures have or about to have begun.

There are two things ( just my opinion) that I believe:

Never fall in love with a high mileage "exotic pet" car... perhaps a deeper money pit than a divorce from a beautiful wife
and
If you get your hands on an all original factory example.. LEAVE IT AS IS.....No mods, wheels , radio whatever...as any coin collector will tell you as soon as you start polishing a rare collectors coin you just reduced its value... same with cars..Just my opinion again.

Good luck to CharlzO and If I were in his shoes I'd definitely take a previous posters advice and try to pick up a low millage 2003 XJR before they increasingly become more rare and ridiculously low prices begin to soar as these well kept secret Jaguar rocket ship classics dissapear to old age, driven to destruction and scrap yards...




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