P0000 due to “CAT” after erased codes & did Drive Cycle
#21
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Iconoclast (06-02-2017)
#22
I read this 3 page article:
"Fuel trim: How it works and how to make it work for you"
Fuel trim: How it works and how to make it work for you - Automotive Service Professional
Based on info on page 2, I will clean my MAF & then recheck Fuel trim levels @ idle, 1500 RPM & 2500 RPM.
I qualify as having an "older engine" (86K miles/17 years).
#23
Yesterday drove Jag on a few errands & then to emissions where I DID pass even with CAT test not complete & P1000, not ready (as per the emissions web site where MY 1996-2000 cars can pass with “not ready” status due to up to 2 tests not complete!)
I then used OBD2 in my driveway to test Fuel trims @ idle, 1500 RPM & 2500 RPM.
Operating temp & @ idle
STFT B1 3.1%
LTFT B1 8.5
STFT B2 3.1
LTFT B2 7.8
STFT B1 S2 -1.5
STFT B2 S2 -1.5
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 1500 RPM
STFT B1 0.7, -3.1, -6.2%
LTFT B1 12.5
STFT B2 -6.2
LTFT B2 10.9
STFT B1 S2 -0.7
STFT B2 S2 -0.7
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 2500 RPM
STFT B1 5.4%
LTFT B1 2.3
STFT B2 3.9
LTFT B2 4.6
STFT B1 S2 0.465
STFT B2 S2 0.2000
Note: some #s constantly changing!
Now I will clean MAF & drive & then retest over next couple days.
Any comments on my Fuel trim #s appreciated.
I then used OBD2 in my driveway to test Fuel trims @ idle, 1500 RPM & 2500 RPM.
Operating temp & @ idle
STFT B1 3.1%
LTFT B1 8.5
STFT B2 3.1
LTFT B2 7.8
STFT B1 S2 -1.5
STFT B2 S2 -1.5
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 1500 RPM
STFT B1 0.7, -3.1, -6.2%
LTFT B1 12.5
STFT B2 -6.2
LTFT B2 10.9
STFT B1 S2 -0.7
STFT B2 S2 -0.7
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 2500 RPM
STFT B1 5.4%
LTFT B1 2.3
STFT B2 3.9
LTFT B2 4.6
STFT B1 S2 0.465
STFT B2 S2 0.2000
Note: some #s constantly changing!
Now I will clean MAF & drive & then retest over next couple days.
Any comments on my Fuel trim #s appreciated.
#24
#25
I cleaned MAF & car does have better acceleration as has happened b4 after cleaning it.
Drove ½ hr. Parked 4+ hrs & drove 45 min. I then used OBD2 in my driveway to test Fuel trims @ idle, 1500 RPM & 2500 RPM. (Yes, still P1000, not ready (CAT). But, I have not done the CAT (Catalyst Efficiency Monitor) drive cycle since cleaning MAF. (Drive vehicle steadily between 1700 – 2500 rpm for 5 minutes)
Operating temp & @ idle
STFT B1 -3.9%
LTFT B1 9.3
STFT B2 -2.3
LTFT B2 7.8
STFT B1 S2 -1.5
STFT B2 S2 -0.7
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 1500 RPM
STFT B1 2.3, 9.3, 10.9%
LTFT B1 0
STFT B2 7.8, 8.5
LTFT B2 0, 0.7
STFT B1 S2 -0.7
STFT B2 S2 -0.7
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 2500 RPM
STFT B1 3.9%
LTFT B1 3.1
STFT B2 0.7, 1.5, 2.3
LTFT B2 3.9
STFT B1 S2 -0.7, -1.5
STFT B2 S2 -1.5
Note: some #s constantly changing
BTW, I figured out that B1= Bank 1, B2= Bank 2. Don’t know what S2 is though.
Drove ½ hr. Parked 4+ hrs & drove 45 min. I then used OBD2 in my driveway to test Fuel trims @ idle, 1500 RPM & 2500 RPM. (Yes, still P1000, not ready (CAT). But, I have not done the CAT (Catalyst Efficiency Monitor) drive cycle since cleaning MAF. (Drive vehicle steadily between 1700 – 2500 rpm for 5 minutes)
Operating temp & @ idle
STFT B1 -3.9%
LTFT B1 9.3
STFT B2 -2.3
LTFT B2 7.8
STFT B1 S2 -1.5
STFT B2 S2 -0.7
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 1500 RPM
STFT B1 2.3, 9.3, 10.9%
LTFT B1 0
STFT B2 7.8, 8.5
LTFT B2 0, 0.7
STFT B1 S2 -0.7
STFT B2 S2 -0.7
Note: some #s constantly changing
Operating temp & @ 2500 RPM
STFT B1 3.9%
LTFT B1 3.1
STFT B2 0.7, 1.5, 2.3
LTFT B2 3.9
STFT B1 S2 -0.7, -1.5
STFT B2 S2 -1.5
Note: some #s constantly changing
BTW, I figured out that B1= Bank 1, B2= Bank 2. Don’t know what S2 is though.
#26
There is nothing out the ordinairy as far as I can quickly see.
I presume you got a small vacuum leak somewhere, hence the bit higher valueas at idle, disappearing when the rev goes up.
Try to hunt that down, but it should settle in spite of that.
Btw, guess the S2 indicated the CO sensor, probably the downstream one, or the bank 2 one.
I presume you got a small vacuum leak somewhere, hence the bit higher valueas at idle, disappearing when the rev goes up.
Try to hunt that down, but it should settle in spite of that.
Btw, guess the S2 indicated the CO sensor, probably the downstream one, or the bank 2 one.
#27
#28
#29
#30
#31
Looks like the rare catch-22: it can't throw any codes as a needed monitor has not set and it can't set due to something not right.
Suspects as well as an air leak would include the O2 sensors and cats. Not sure what else but I suppose misfires (as they then affect O2s).
As I recall, the site (e.g. large file area) has the detailed PCM info but it probably doesn't include how to diagnose rare things like this.
Graphing the O2s might provide clues if there are no air leaks (you need to fix any there are - including due to any EVAP lines etc).
Suspects as well as an air leak would include the O2 sensors and cats. Not sure what else but I suppose misfires (as they then affect O2s).
As I recall, the site (e.g. large file area) has the detailed PCM info but it probably doesn't include how to diagnose rare things like this.
Graphing the O2s might provide clues if there are no air leaks (you need to fix any there are - including due to any EVAP lines etc).
#32
Hello to Steve and anyone else on this old thread:
I have the exact same issue in that I replaced a coil pack and when doing it I disconnected the battery.
Before disconnecting I read code P1111 for all monitors complete and also the below codes:
P0301 - cylinder 1 misfire (this is why I changed the coil pack - which worked BTW)
P1313 - misfire/catalyst damage - bank 1 engine mech fault
P1316 - misfire
P0351 - ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
and P1111 - (wish I had never disconnected the battery!)
So I have tried many drive cycles, added "CataClean" and even changed both O2 sensors and catalytic converted ont he right side but still cannot clear the catalyst monitor and turn P1000 into P1111.
I am out of registration now because I live in California. I have drive approx. 1500 miles. The time between my coil pack change and smog test was about 9 months and maybe 2000 miles.
I went to one independent and I did not let them do anything because they wanted to change the alternator. (due to P1642 described below)
I am about to start calling Jag dealers and other independents..
So my only code issue is catalyst monitor not made as part of P1000. However I will say my car is sensitive to the reader (Autel MS309-simple type) and my car will spit out P1642 CAN link circuit codes for a while until I drive a bit. For some reason my CAN network does not like the reader on while the car is running - that is when I can get the P1642.
I was wondering if Steve found any solution since 6/16/17 or if anyone else has?
I have looked at the code reader section but what code reader should I try to get to read real time X308 Fuel Trim codes?
I have seen other threads with my issue too but no one seems to overcome the issue.
Thanks,
Dave (Tabs-XJ8)
I have the exact same issue in that I replaced a coil pack and when doing it I disconnected the battery.
Before disconnecting I read code P1111 for all monitors complete and also the below codes:
P0301 - cylinder 1 misfire (this is why I changed the coil pack - which worked BTW)
P1313 - misfire/catalyst damage - bank 1 engine mech fault
P1316 - misfire
P0351 - ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit malfunction
and P1111 - (wish I had never disconnected the battery!)
So I have tried many drive cycles, added "CataClean" and even changed both O2 sensors and catalytic converted ont he right side but still cannot clear the catalyst monitor and turn P1000 into P1111.
I am out of registration now because I live in California. I have drive approx. 1500 miles. The time between my coil pack change and smog test was about 9 months and maybe 2000 miles.
I went to one independent and I did not let them do anything because they wanted to change the alternator. (due to P1642 described below)
I am about to start calling Jag dealers and other independents..
So my only code issue is catalyst monitor not made as part of P1000. However I will say my car is sensitive to the reader (Autel MS309-simple type) and my car will spit out P1642 CAN link circuit codes for a while until I drive a bit. For some reason my CAN network does not like the reader on while the car is running - that is when I can get the P1642.
I was wondering if Steve found any solution since 6/16/17 or if anyone else has?
I have looked at the code reader section but what code reader should I try to get to read real time X308 Fuel Trim codes?
I have seen other threads with my issue too but no one seems to overcome the issue.
Thanks,
Dave (Tabs-XJ8)
#33
Yes & No re solution.
I gave up since I can pass emissions in AZ with 1 or 2 monitors not complete. If my car was a 2001 or newer, I could only pass if 1 was not ready.
5-2018, I had another unrelated problem (see my TCM post)
This caused me to disconnect the battery & to clear DTCs again as a troubleshooting step (which failed to help the TCM issue)
However, w/o even trying to do the drive cycle to get all the monitors to complete their test, CAT completed! Along with several others. The only blinking ones were CCM, EVA & O25.
Today I replaced my TCM (which I will post about in the other thread soon) I had to d/c battery ½ hour which did not erase my DTC and did not change the monitors' readiness status. So, still CCM, EVA & O25. I tried to do the drive cycle a couple times during test drives & got the O25 to complete & currently have only CCM & EVA not ready.
My plan is to just drive & I expect those 2 to complete.
So, my suggestion to you is to once again erase your DTCs & put all monitors back to not ready & see if now the CAT will complete.
Good luck,
Steve
I gave up since I can pass emissions in AZ with 1 or 2 monitors not complete. If my car was a 2001 or newer, I could only pass if 1 was not ready.
5-2018, I had another unrelated problem (see my TCM post)
This caused me to disconnect the battery & to clear DTCs again as a troubleshooting step (which failed to help the TCM issue)
However, w/o even trying to do the drive cycle to get all the monitors to complete their test, CAT completed! Along with several others. The only blinking ones were CCM, EVA & O25.
Today I replaced my TCM (which I will post about in the other thread soon) I had to d/c battery ½ hour which did not erase my DTC and did not change the monitors' readiness status. So, still CCM, EVA & O25. I tried to do the drive cycle a couple times during test drives & got the O25 to complete & currently have only CCM & EVA not ready.
My plan is to just drive & I expect those 2 to complete.
So, my suggestion to you is to once again erase your DTCs & put all monitors back to not ready & see if now the CAT will complete.
Good luck,
Steve
#34
After driving tonight, I finally got P1111, all monitor tests complete!
I still have P1605
Keep Alive Memory Failure
I'm NOT going to use my Scan tool to clear codes since I will then have to complete all the tests again & do not want to have CAT not complete again.
I think P1605 is due to me disconnecting the battery (& TCM) Since I doubt there is a current problem & have no CEL, I think the code will eventually erase after a certain # of drives. (10? 20?)
I still have P1605
Keep Alive Memory Failure
I'm NOT going to use my Scan tool to clear codes since I will then have to complete all the tests again & do not want to have CAT not complete again.
I think P1605 is due to me disconnecting the battery (& TCM) Since I doubt there is a current problem & have no CEL, I think the code will eventually erase after a certain # of drives. (10? 20?)
Last edited by Iconoclast; 08-24-2018 at 03:29 AM.
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A.J.P (08-24-2018)
#35
The following users liked this post:
A.J.P (08-24-2018)
#36
#37
Hi Steve and All,
Thank you for your advice. My new plan is:
1. Clear codes with a full battery disconnect and drive normally for a week or so - with as many routine drives as possible. (I know my car clears all the codes except catalyst fairly quickly)
2. Check codes and if still not completing the catalyst monitor then take it to a Jaguar Dealer here in Ca.
There is a letter I received from the Ca DMV that looks like they have done their homework and they require documentation on Dealer steps on fixing emission codes not completing. They may eventually pass me I think if the Dealer cannot fix it. On the other hand I don't want the dealer to charge for all the fixes. So I will first get a diagnosis first and do what I can to fix things.
I will update this thread because it is a nasty problem and I don't like to think nice Jags would get sent to the wreckers for such a thing - as least here in Ca.
Regards,
Dave
Thank you for your advice. My new plan is:
1. Clear codes with a full battery disconnect and drive normally for a week or so - with as many routine drives as possible. (I know my car clears all the codes except catalyst fairly quickly)
2. Check codes and if still not completing the catalyst monitor then take it to a Jaguar Dealer here in Ca.
There is a letter I received from the Ca DMV that looks like they have done their homework and they require documentation on Dealer steps on fixing emission codes not completing. They may eventually pass me I think if the Dealer cannot fix it. On the other hand I don't want the dealer to charge for all the fixes. So I will first get a diagnosis first and do what I can to fix things.
I will update this thread because it is a nasty problem and I don't like to think nice Jags would get sent to the wreckers for such a thing - as least here in Ca.
Regards,
Dave
#38
#39
On the specific car I'm not sure what P1605 is. Probably not KAM-related (because then your monitors would be unset).
I see a TCM-related cause and others via a search engine.
If the MIL is off you can ignore the code. (Smog tests also will.)
Eventually (40 or 80 warm ups without occurring again) it should self-clear.
I see a TCM-related cause and others via a search engine.
If the MIL is off you can ignore the code. (Smog tests also will.)
Eventually (40 or 80 warm ups without occurring again) it should self-clear.
Last edited by JagV8; 08-25-2018 at 12:52 AM.
#40