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I have started to look at getting an XJR, in particular the 1999 as i like the shape.
I was wondering with all the talk of tensioners etc is there a way of looking at the engine to tell if it is a later revision with the newer tensioners?
I seem to recall reading that from 2002 onwards were all fitted with the later replacements.
I ask as some of the sale posts mention they have had new engines fitted.
The only way I know of for sure on an early model, is to pull the covers and visibly look. If you have documented service receipts, there's that way, assuming a reputable repair shop didn't scam someone by not actually replacing them.
Yeah, you would have to take the cam covers off. Even tho maintenance receipts on my car showed they were done, I still checked. It's really not hard to pull them off, the cam covers.
If there is no believable documentation to prove that both the primary and secondary tensioners have been updated to the metal versions, then assume it has not been done, and plan finances accordingly. You can do them yourself for around $500-$700, or pay $2,500-$3,000+ for a shop to do the job.
The body shape is the same throughout the X308 XJR series, 1997-2003.
These cars are up to 21 years old now, so best advice is to buy the newest, lowest mileage example you can find/afford.
Is there an easy way to look at the engine date?? One fo the cars i am seeing this week has a new engine. So unless the guy has the engine details to hand I figure i would have to take a look myself??
Why would you stay away from a replaced engine? Could it not be a legitimate reason?
Of course, it could be, but there is always the doubt there.
An original car, with a documented history, seems always to be a better bet than a car with a suspect history. It's your money, spend it as you wish, but my money would go to the most original, cleanest, best documented, newest, lowest mileage, I could afford. It's very easy to spend money after the fact, much better to take your time and buy the "right one" in the first place.
Don't be in too much of a rush, take your time, do lots of research, it is much easier to take your time and be right, than to rush in and be wrong.
Personally, I'd be very wary of one that's had a transplant as well. Not so much that it might not have been legit - but rather it would need to be pretty particular about what happened. It would need to be a thoroughly documented by a competent dealership or facility, and I would want to know the circumstances. Because even if someone who blew it to smithereens without ever changing oil has it replaced by highly trained people, the fact would remain that I would forever doubt what ELSE on the car was neglected. If it was a legitimate reason for the replacement and no other issues, and if it was done properly, then and only then, would I be ok with it.
Yeah i have been looking around on this forum and people have various opinions as to where it actually could be. Why would you stay away from a replaced engine? Could it not be a legitimate reason??
The engine number is actually the date and time when the engine was completed, i.e. YYMMDD HHMM (second MM being minutes) so you should be able to know the engine date from the car documents. It is much better if an engine up to August 2000 is replaced with a later one as it will be with steel liners, not nikasil. The first steel-lined engine came off the production line in the year 2000 on August 18th at 10.43am with engine number 000818 1043 so you should be looking for an engine number higher than this. Otherwise, the engine number (date), on my 1999 supercharged engine, is located as shown on the picture.
...and the location of my 2000 XJR's engine code (30 August 2000) is on the driver's side of the block (LHD) below the exhaust manifold right between the engine mount's bracket and the block's coolant drain plug. For a long time I couldn't figure out where it is but when I was overhauling my front axle I discov it with the front subframe removed from the car.
Yeah, you would have to take the cam covers off. Even tho maintenance receipts on my car showed they were done, I still checked. It's really not hard to pull them off, the cam covers.
+1.
Having proof of this repair is worth a lot on these cars, so document well if you did it, have documentation someone else did it, or look and create documentation that it was done. I did mine myself, but I saved the old parts in some big ziplocs in the basement, and took pictures of the before and after making it pretty obvious I did them. Did this on both my Jaguars.
He supposedly has paper work for the engine swap and prior work. I have checked the VIN and he seems to have a steady history of taking it in for oil change etc etc
I will see him on Thursday so will have a better idea of what and when things were done. Also as to why.
Is there anything i should be looking for in terms of the tensioners being changed on paper work? Part numbers, descriptions???
@Stojanovic
Do i need to take anything off to get to this location?
Do i need to take anything off to get to this location?
No, but you will need an LED penlight to shine on the number (and possibly a small piece of cloth on a stick to wipe the area). You can only see it from a particular angle standing at the right side of the engine compartment. It is on the small shiny shape you can see on the picture, below the hose elbow (pointed at by the red line). If, however, the engine is later than August 2000 (post Nikasil), the number is probably at the location described in Post 12 (you will need to look from under the car). Otherwise, the usual reason for replacement of pre-August 2000 engines was failure of their Nikasil liners.
I seem to recall reading that from 2002 onwards were all fitted with the later replacements.
Model year 2003 cars definitely have the metal tensioners from the factory. My XJR is a model year 2002 and was built in July 2001 and it had the plastic tensioners. Maybe the later 2002’s built after July 2001 had metal but at least some like mine did not.
Engines manufactured at Bridgend Jaguar plant from Aug 14th Midnight 2001 have all metal timing chain tensioners, guides, morse style silent chains and gen 2 oil pump, along with revised metal pulleys. Engine # located on these are RHS looking from front of car, 3rd rib on side of block, along with main bearing codes.
Jaguar fitted replacement engines carry a green tab located near the throttle body - these under warranty for nikasil liner failure due to high sulphur content fuel from Venazula. Steel liner equipped replacement blocks.
If in doubt, pull a cam cover and eyeball the tensioner.
so I went up to check out the 1999 and the guy didnt want to show it. Apparently issues.
not a big deal but I wish he had told me before I took an about drive there.
Anyway. I have a found a 2003 in great shape and figure it's a better buy as the whole tensioner thing is not so much an issue on this model.
any advice for this year model?
all your help and info has been so appreciated. Has helped me out a ton and has given me a new nerdy subject to soak I to my mind hahah
2003 is the "best year" for the X308, simply because it is the last year, and all bugs that were going to be fixed, were fixed by then. This doesn't mean you shouldn't apply the same due diligence before buying.
What mileage on the 2003 you are going to look at? What color? What model? (base/L/VDP/SC etc.) How many owners? Detailed maintenance history?
So i finally fund myself a 2003 XJR. Its got 133k on the clock and the current owner has been taking it to a jag specialist to get the maintenance.
Coupld of minor issues. The fog light glass cover is broken on the drivers side. And the rearview mirror needs replacing. The fog light i have already found on ebay pretty cheap.
I was wondering if the rearview mirror was an expensive piece? I have found several but they range in price. Does it need to be 2003 specific? Of course i would like it to be stock if possible without breaking the bank.
06-25-2018, 02:25 PM
Going to see 1999 XJR
