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I tried to pull the valve up but couldn't anymore than where it's at. I did notice that when I was compressing the spring to insert the valve retainers the valve fell just a little lower. I pulled it back up and tried again. I know that the retainers are supposed to be locked in at a lower point on the valve but that's the best I could do. I am debating on putting it all back together and turning the engine but iffy about it.
DO NOT turn the engine with the valve sitting like that. It will certainly contact the piston and may cause more damage (and there is no point as you will have no compression in that cylinder). Also, as currently installed, the spring is not locked to the valve stem and, if pressed down by the cam, the spring assembly will probably come off the valve. If, prior to fitting the spring, you could not pull the valve stem up to the same level as the neighbouring good valve, the valve is bent so it is had off. Otherwise, you may not have much damage to the piston as the Jag valve stems are very thin and bend easily. On the other hand, the valve seat and the valve guide might be somewhat damaged so inspect them when you have removed the head.
Just noticed that the top of the stem of the bad valve looks strange (rounded). The stem top has either been "battered" badly by the impact from the camshaft lobe or the section of the stem above the collet retaining groove has broken off. Did you find any short "rod" under the cam follower when you removed it? Did you actually see the groove on the valve stem before you put the new spring in?
DO NOT turn the engine with the valve sitting like that. It will certainly contact the piston and may cause more damage (and there is no point as you will have no compression in that cylinder). Also, as currently installed, the spring is not locked to the valve stem and, if pressed down by the cam, the spring assembly will probably come off the valve. If, prior to fitting the spring, you could not pull the valve stem up to the same level as the neighbouring good valve, the valve is bent so it is had off. Otherwise, you may not have much damage to the piston as the Jag valve stems are very thin and bend easily. On the other hand, the valve seat and the valve guide might be somewhat damaged so inspect them when you have removed the head.
Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
Just noticed that the top of the stem of the bad valve looks strange (rounded). The stem top has either been "battered" badly by the impact from the camshaft lobe or the section of the stem above the collet retaining groove has broken off. Did you find any short "rod" under the cam follower when you removed it? Did you actually see the groove on the valve stem before you put the new spring in?
Thank you for your time and thoughts! Removing the head is my next move for sure. I'm confident that the valve is bent and/or the seat is damaged. When I put in the spring I also got a new valve stem seal and retainer.
I'm aware of that rounded valve stem, the rounded/grinded edges are from jumping around awkwardly while the spring was broken. I saw some scratches in the inside of the bucket shim that sits right on top. Also the valve is pushed down a little too much for me to compress the spring that far down. Which is why I left the retainer where it holds for now.
Currently collecting/soaking in as much info as I can as far as torque specs for everything, special tools I will need (besides timing kit), and important details/techniques to keep in mind.
I looked into the regional link and found a shop near me that specializes in jags. Called them up and the tech offered me to bring him the head with the bent valve so he can check it out and tell me if there is excess damage.
I'm grateful to have folks like y'all through this journey, much appreciated!
Currently collecting/soaking in as much info as I can as far as torque specs for everything, special tools I will need (besides timing kit), and important details/techniques to keep in mind.
The timing kit (cams/crank lock) is about all of the spec tool you need. For one man DIY, I used a borescope pointed at the opening where the crank sensor sits to watch the oval hole for the crank lock pin approaching while turning the crankshaft. The borescope I used has a detachable remote monitor screen so I could have it in front of me. I stopped turning the crank a bit before the oval hole was aligned and attached the lock pin using a longer bolt with a spring on it to keep some pressure on the pin. I then turned the crank a bit more and the lock pin popped in when the oval hole was aligned with the pin.
When re-installing the head:
1. Use new head bolts (they are now just about $6 a piece)
2. Use a genuine Jaguar composite head gasket, not the metal (MLS) type gasket
3. Make sure that the block and head surfaces are clean and thoroughly degreased
The timing kit (cams/crank lock) is about all of the spec tool you need. For one man DIY, I used a borescope pointed at the opening where the crank sensor sits to watch the oval hole for the crank lock pin approaching while turning the crankshaft. The borescope I used has a detachable remote monitor screen so I could have it in front of me. I stopped turning the crank a bit before the oval hole was aligned and attached the lock pin using a longer bolt with a spring on it to keep some pressure on the pin. I then turned the crank a bit more and the lock pin popped in when the oval hole was aligned with the pin.
When re-installing the head:
1. Use new head bolts (they are now just about $6 a piece)
2. Use a genuine Jaguar composite head gasket, not the metal (MLS) type gasket
3. Make sure that the block and head surfaces are clean and thoroughly degreased
Thank you folks for all of your help. As far as the head gaskets, what color are the correct ones? Also since I will be taking off both heads will I need to use the cam locks? I'm assuming the crankshaft lock is the most important one to use as long as I make sure the camshafts are even at the flats when I put them back on. Is that correct? When the oval hole is aligned with the pin is that the dead center/even cam flats? Will I need to get under the engine for anything?
Last edited by Damian Triana; Jan 19, 2020 at 12:31 PM.
The timing kit (cams/crank lock) is about all of the spec tool you need. For one man DIY, I used a borescope pointed at the opening where the crank sensor sits to watch the oval hole for the crank lock pin approaching while turning the crankshaft. The borescope I used has a detachable remote monitor screen so I could have it in front of me. I stopped turning the crank a bit before the oval hole was aligned and attached the lock pin using a longer bolt with a spring on it to keep some pressure on the pin. I then turned the crank a bit more and the lock pin popped in when the oval hole was aligned with the pin.
When re-installing the head:
1. Use new head bolts (they are now just about $6 a piece)
2. Use a genuine Jaguar composite head gasket, not the metal (MLS) type gasket
3. Make sure that the block and head surfaces are clean and thoroughly degreased
With all the recommendations I have seen on the forum for using the 4.2L MLS gasket I wonder what it is in your experience that says do not use them.
Thank you folks for all of your help. As far as the head gaskets, what color are the correct ones? Also since I will be taking off both heads will I need to use the cam locks? I'm assuming the crankshaft lock is the most important one to use as long as I make sure the camshafts are even at the flats when I put them back on. Is that correct? When the oval hole is aligned with the pin is that the dead center/even cam flats? Will I need to get under the engine for anything?
Composite Gasket:
MLS Gasket:
You need to lock both cams (the tool kit has everything required). When you lock the crank, the cam flats should all align, then you lock the cams. The crank is not at TDC in the locked position. The position is such that it provides lowest average strain on the camshafts (by the valve springs) for their easier removal and installation. For removal, installation and correct cam timing, you need to read the workshop manual. You will have to crawl under the engine to remove the crank sensor and install the lock pin.
With all the recommendations I have seen on the forum for using the 4.2L MLS gasket I wonder what it is in your experience that says do not use them.
MLS gaskets require almost perfectly flat block and head surfaces. The required surface finish is also quite special - very fine. It is easy to have the heads skimmed as required but not easy to do same to the block decks (unless you take the engine out and strip the block). If the block decks are not skimmed to perfectly straight and smooth, it is better to use composite gaskets which will comply to small irregularities. MLS gaskets may leak in this condition. I and a couple of my friends have experienced this (on other engines, Cometic MLS). The leaks were not big but enough the push the coolant out on more spirited driving.
On the other hand, I am currently rebuilding the 2.0 Lit Turbo engine on my Saab 9-5 for which only MLS head gasket (as designed by the factory) is available. I have installed a brand new head but did not take the engine out for the block decking (skimming). The block surface has some small irregularities so, after cleaning and sanding (using a block of thick glass to hold the sandpaper), which did not remove much of the irregularities, I decided to apply copper spray on the block surface. Will see if the MLS gasket holds.
MLS Gasket:
You need to lock both cams (the tool kit has everything required). When you lock the crank, the cam flats should all align, then you lock the cams. The crank is not at TDC in the locked position. The position is such that it provides lowest average strain on the camshafts (by the valve springs) for their easier removal and installation. For removal, installation and correct cam timing, you need to read the workshop manual. You will have to crawl under the engine to remove the crank sensor and install the lock pin.
Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
MLS gaskets require almost perfectly flat block and head surfaces. The required surface finish is also quite special - very fine. It is easy to have the heads skimmed as required but not easy to do same to the block decks (unless you take the engine out and strip the block). If the block decks are not skimmed to perfectly straight and smooth, it is better to use composite gaskets which will comply to small irregularities. MLS gaskets may leak in this condition. I and a couple of my friends have experienced this (on other engines, Cometic MLS). The leaks were not big but enough the push the coolant out on more spirited driving.
On the other hand, I am currently rebuilding the 2.0 Lit Turbo engine on my Saab 9-5 for which only MLS head gasket (as designed by the factory) is available. I have installed a brand new head but did not take the engine out for the block decking (skimming). The block surface has some small irregularities so, after cleaning and sanding (using a block of thick glass to hold the sandpaper), which did not remove much of the irregularities, I decided to apply copper spray on the block surface. Will see if the MLS gasket holds.
Thank you for your insight and pictures! Very helpful. I am currently at a work stoppage right now. I'm at the stage where of removing the pulleys. I've been studying on the crankshaft removal procedure. I want a second opinion on these tools I'm about to order to see if that will be all I need to remove the crankshaft.
Is that JD216 tool one of the 2 that are included in the camshaft locking set?
Yes, there are two crank positioning tools included in the kit (in the red case), If I remember correctly one is for the A26 engine and one for the A27 engine, they are similar just a slightly different end shape. You will easily see which one fits your car when you view the shape of the hole in the flywheel thatthe tool inserts into
This image has an adapter of some sort, don't know if I need it.
You don't ( I think that adapter is for the supercharged engines)
Originally Posted by Damian Triana
I am also aware that I will need a new crankshaft bolt and 'O' ring seal. Need help finding the right ones.
If you order(ed) a timing chain/tensioner kit and gaskets from Christopher's Foreign car parts, it comes with the harmonic balancer o-ring, as well as the timing cover oil seal. https://christophersforeigncarparts....ing-in-one-box
There are two things to be careful with whilst removing the timing cover:
Under no circumstances is the engine to be rotated counter clock as damage to the rod and main bearings is the result. Rotate the engine in a clock direction when viewing the engine from the front of the vehicle.
Under no circumstances is the crankshaft holding tool to be used to hold the crankshaft from rotating when the front pulley bolt is being removed. Use the Jaguar special tools, or a chain spanner with a piece of the serpentine belt cut to fit around the pulley to hold the crankshaft from rotating.
Yes, there are two crank positioning tools included in the kit (in the red case), If I remember correctly one is for the A26 engine and one for the A27 engine, they are similar just a slightly different end shape. You will easily see which one fits your car when you view the shape of the hole in the flywheel thatthe tool inserts into
Originally Posted by Carnival Kid
That $179 puller is good, but WAY too expensive....................................
This is the kit you need..................it holds the crankshaft while you undo the crankbolt, AND has the harmonic balancer puller included.
You don't ( I think that adapter is for the supercharged engines)
If you order(ed) a timing chain/tensioner kit and gaskets from Christopher's Foreign car parts, it comes with the harmonic balancer o-ring, as well as the timing cover oil seal. https://christophersforeigncarparts....ing-in-one-box
I appreciate the pictures and links, most definitely will order the timing chain kit from there minus the 2 secondary tensioners as I already have them. Same goes for the bolt, going to see if I can get an exhaust valve and valve keepers from there as well.
You are much appreciated.
Last edited by Damian Triana; Jan 25, 2020 at 01:21 AM.
There are two things to be careful with whilst removing the timing cover:
Under no circumstances is the engine to be rotated counter clock as damage to the rod and main bearings is the result. Rotate the engine in a clock direction when viewing the engine from the front of the vehicle.
Under no circumstances is the crankshaft holding tool to be used to hold the crankshaft from rotating when the front pulley bolt is being removed. Use the Jaguar special tools, or a chain spanner with a piece of the serpentine belt cut to fit around the pulley to hold the crankshaft from rotating.
Originally Posted by NBCat
Correct timing for the camshafts with the flat surfaces facing up is 45 degrees ATDC, not TDC.
Check that the VVT units on the inlet cams are fully retarded before installing the primary chains.
Very clear, thank you! You think I should not use the tool circled in blue?
How can I check the VVT units and what determines if they are retarded?
